Anyone got info/lit on lion C10MB lathe and possible shortening advice.

[john.k]

I see just that in one of the Paki u tubes.........head from one lathe ,bed from another ......not even spliced together ,just both set on one block of concrete............Top lathe in the shop ,by the look of it.

 

[justin1]

Wierd but I guess this forum is pretty USA made machine oriented but I feel like some of the imports should get bit more credit.

Give Lion a call, they might provide a manual via pdf for free, they might want $$$ for a hard copy, you won't know till you call. If this is your first lathe, read the Southbend publication "How to run a lathe", it is for SB lathes, but 90 something % applies to all lathes.

Ye I'll give them a shout in week or so once I've had I chance to dig around more around web I did find manual for c11mt but it is a newer model and has miner layout differences. I will look for a copy of that book might learn something new as I'm not a machinist by any stretch but have few years of mill and lathe use work experience but probly doesn't count for much pretty basic stuff. I did find a copy of Testing Machine Tools by Dr.Schlesinger as I would like to get into machine reconditioning it's something I've wanted to do for a while just haven't got many opportunities to get something cheap enough to "fix" lol. I did buy a bridge port style 10x50 mill recently with a stuck knee I found that to be fun project and saved me few bucks felt kinda wrong to put a tiger torch to it but worked out lol.

 

[justin1]

I see just that in one of the Paki u tubes.........head from one lathe ,bed from another ......not even spliced together ,just both set on one block of concrete............Top lathe in the shop ,by the look of it.

Ye I mean there pretty creative with what they got access too. I watch the videos on how they repair engine blocks and heads it's pretty neat and there cubula foundries operation is a site to see aswell.

Good luck trying to get anyone over here to even strike an arc on a engine block let alone add metal to the deck height. Not a long term solution but I image you can get some decent life out of a scrap engine if done good enough.

 

[Robert Lang]

Wierd but I guess this forum is pretty USA made machine oriented but I feel like some of the imports should get bit more credit.

If you are talking about the Antique section, they do get credit if they are antique.
There have been a lot of British antique machine tools on the Antique section.

Rob

 

[john.k]

If you need to do something like a ball bearing bore in a casting using a worn part of the bed ,where you know it will be turned tapered,then simply set the compound at 90deg,lock the saddle ,and bore the 1" or so deep with the compound feed.........This is how we worked on big lathes with much wear in the bed .

 

[justin1]

If you are talking about the Antique section, they do get credit if they are antique.
There have been a lot of British antique machine tools on the Antique section.

Rob

Hah ye I was more referencing Chinese and Taiwanese as lots of stuff has been made by those machines big and small. I guess a lot of them haven't made it to antique yet either but sure one day there will be a few that get a mini cult following but most being clones of well respected machines probly more honorable mention at best.

If you need to do something like a ball bearing bore in a casting using a worn part of the bed ,where you know it will be turned tapered,then simply set the compound at 90deg,lock the saddle ,and bore the 1" or so deep with the compound feed.........This is how we worked on big lathes with much wear in the bed .

Good tip using the lesser worn part of the carriage I would assume you would lock everything else when doing that to minimize the slop? I was thinking about something similar early with mapping the wear and offsetting tailstock to accommodate for some of the wear when making longer cuts in the worn sections of the bed.

I'm curious on how much taper is allowable when doing press fits or shrink fit type stuff before you risk a bushing spinning out in the bore. Or crushing a bearing

 

[john.k]

If the bore is tapered ,typically it flogs loose very quickly in service ...its also very obvious to the customer fitting the part ,and you are very likely to get it back to correct.

 

[animal12]

Did you look ere under the Bulgarian name ? http://www.lathes.co.uk/
animal

 

[justin1]

Thanks for that link didn't have any info on my lathe but still handy, I have been able to find couple common names them being,

Machstroj lathe
Sofia lathe
Universal lathe
Lion lathe

Mashstroy lathe? I think same company maybe translated found that one on the link you provided

 

[justin1]

For those in future looking for the threading chart for this lathe I think this is the one haven't tested it yet as machine isn't under power yet.

Still on hunt for the manual for c10m/c10mb lathe when I get my hands on copy I will post it.

 

[gbent]

If I really thought I had to cut out the bad section I would just move the headstock down the ways toward the tailstock. Then you probably have to jury rig the input shaft to the headstock and the drive for the feed/threading gearbox. That is a poor idea, but has a much better chance of success than shortening the lathe and remounting the gearbox, motor, and headstock.

But really, use it until you are good enough the lathe is a limiting factor in your production. Then pass it to the next guy for a welding or ring rolling lathe.

 

[James H Clark]

Justin1: Did you get a tailstock with it? Not one in the picture, but I assumed so. As others have said, clean it up and lube everything and play with it. You may be surprised.

JH

 

[justin1]

Justin1: Did you get a tailstock with it? Not one in the picture, but I assumed so. As others have said, clean it up and lube everything and play with it. You may be surprised.

JH

Ye I got a tailstock with it and steady rest as well as taper attachment. Just working on converting the electrical and motors to 380v and cleaning and re shimming the carriage and removing the rest of the rust from the contract surfaces. slow going with scotch and metal wool. Currently tailstock marinating in diesel till I can move it enough to disassemble and clean.

If I really thought I had to cut out the bad section I would just move the headstock down the ways toward the tailstock. Then you probably have to jury rig the input shaft to the headstock and the drive for the feed/threading gearbox. That is a poor idea, but has a much better chance of success than shortening the lathe and remounting the gearbox, motor, and headstock.

But really, use it until you are good enough the lathe is a limiting factor in your production. Then pass it to the next guy for a welding or ring rolling lathe.

Ye currently the only things I got planned for it is get it going again find out more about it. I got some welding/hardfacing jobs for it soon. then maybe just use it as a glorified cylinder honing machine and weld positioner.

May play around with making chuck extender in future or just keep eyes open for 18x80 if get enough use out of this scrap machine to justify buying better one. I have a smaller lathe that can handle most things but couple times a year need something bigger.

 

[justin1]

Finally after surfing google don't know how many Times with a VPN to search different parts of Europe I found a website that hosts some manuals for equipment got a operation manual and parts manual for my lathe.

Manuály obráběcích strojů a zařízení | Stachura.cz

stachura.cz

May come in handy for those who have an odd ball machine only thing is to read the manual have to use translating app but better then nothing.

 

[James H Clark]

Justin1: Glad you got the equipment noted for your lathe. You mentioned some welding jobs for the lathe, do you plan to weld IN the lathe, if so, I wouldn't recommend that. It is hard on headstock bearings. Glad you found a source for the manuals. Good luck and stay posted to keep us up on your progress.
JH

 

[justin1]

Justin1: Glad you got the equipment noted for your lathe. You mentioned some welding jobs for the lathe, do you plan to weld IN the lathe, if so, I wouldn't recommend that. It is hard on headstock bearings. Glad you found a source for the manuals. Good luck and stay posted to keep us up on your progress.
JH

Ye plan on using the lathe as a rotary spinner to build up some Conveyor rollers then machine them flat after repairing the dishes out sections in middle I use a welding cable without the casing on it and wrap it around the roller shaft or if they don't have shafts around any area of rollers that has nothing to snag on and make sure there is good clean metal for contact.

This machine has been used for welding up stuff before I had to scrap some spatter off the weys. And near the head there is signs of some heavy handed grinder scars.

I'm just hoping there isn't any bad bearings in head once I finish with the re-powering. that and hoping the 7.5hp motor I had on hand does a good enough job running this lathe. It was the only motor I had that was 380 volt. I don't really want to throw money at this lathe if I don't have too. Would like a chance to make sure it's worth more then it's weight in scrap.


I also had a chance to look up some of the bearing in the head to get idea of what it would cost to fix anything in there and man some of those bearings cost the same as good condition 16" swing lathe.

 

[Inducto_Writeup]

Justin1: Glad you got the equipment noted for your lathe. You mentioned some welding jobs for the lathe, do you plan to weld IN the lathe, if so, I wouldn't recommend that. It is hard on headstock bearings. Glad you found a source for the manuals. Good luck and stay posted to keep us up on your progress.
JH

Welding in a lathe is only hard on the running components if you have a garbage ground setup really.
There's plenty of methods to keep the pixies out of the headstock from wire braid loops to making a spring loaded brush arm, to stripping and packing a livecenter with conductive grease (so you can clamp on the non-moving housing) and counting those bearings as consumables. He could also setup insulated jaws specifically for welding (as it's not like you need it to be perfectly concentric) to isolate the part away from the headstock.
In my experience, I've come across far more damage to the ways from lathes used for welding work than the headstock bearings.