^^^this.Split a short piece of rubber fuel line and clamp it in place.
Why? One or two pulls on the trigger of a mig gun and the nick is fixed and likely stronger that the base wall. All heat is very localized and the steel of the tack is actually melted in to the steel of the tubing. To braze, you have to heat a very large section of the tubing and the braze material never actually becomes a part of the tube steel.I would braze it.
plumbing flare tools are not the same!My flaring tool is a plumber’s compression flaring tool… and where I live the auto parts ‘loaners’ are often broken, misadjusted or otherwise unusable! I’ll try APD’s compression union approach because once I have the union I have the tools to install it on hand.
Typical mig wire has a minimum strength of 70,000 psi2001 ranger has 56-72 psi fuel pressure during KOEO test.
Anything short of replacing the line using oem connections is just ....well........
We’re not ALL experts and pros here, and we don’t ALL have all the tools we need… some of us are looking for advice - ADVICE, not criticism - from someone who’s been there/done that… I’m sorry you have the attitude you have but I’m damn sure not the reason for it. I admit to being a fabricobbler - whether you want to admit it or not you weren’t born an expert either!So either buy the proper tools or leave.
"Bend over" yourself wanker,
Interestingly, that’s the ultimate plan… it’s winter in New England, we hafta work in the driveway, and I’m just tryna get the Ranger thru to warm weather… the rubber fuel line has been holding well with just a few exceptions, and I don’t want grandson out tryna tighten clamps at night on a side road so I thought a flare fitting might just be the ticket til spring.plumbing flare tools are not the same!
only use the automotive ones due to pressures and sealing capability of the double flaring tools.
im more surprised that a 2001 ranger still exists and isn't in the crusher. Id probably guess the fuel line is all rusted over and soft all the way down.
better bet is to make a whole new length of it, go to local napa,or wherever and get bulk line and a flaring tool and fuel injection hose clamps. trying to flare old rusty line will keep you running in circles.
I used a ton of Swagelok back in the 80’s… not sure why I didn’t think of them for this application. Prolly cause I live in a small town where the parts folks responded would be “Swage WHAT?” accompanied by a blank stare…Look up "swagelok" fittings... https://www.superloknorthamerica.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-s29oM3M_AIVFxOtBh159gnaEAAYAiAAEgKuJvD_BwE
They make "everything" so dig in the catalog for the 8mm joiners.
We use them in critical applications all the time.
Southwestern VT… I’ll look online.Get an Ermeto or some times called a "Bite" type compression fitting coupler. Use for hydraulic fittings 3k psi and will not leak or vibrate loose. A hydraulic hose shop or any one doing hydraulic work should have some.
Look on line you should find plenty. Where are you? I have plenty of them at work.
So, when did Practical Machinist become Critical Machinist? I missed that post, I guess… never said it was either a perfect solution OR a permanent one - just tryna hold things together until we can tear into it properly. Which means warm enough to put the truck up on jack stands in driveway.Well..........I;m going to keep a watch on social media for a kid getting burned to death from tightening hose clamps on a Ford truck...........really??
Weird family love going on here