Blade Cutoff Tool Question

[Kratos]

Hello fellow machinists! This is my first time posting on here. So if I need to do anything different please feel free to let me know. I just purchased a blade style cutoff tool for the first time. It comes with the a little wrench that, as far as I understand, is meant for extracting the insert from the blade. However, I'm not sure how to lock in the insert upon installation. When I put it in by hand, I can easily remove it.

Am I supposed to just fit it in snug with my fingers? Will tighten up once it starts running parts? Is there a tool I need to tighten this type of insert in the blade before running it?

Any help is appreciated!

For Reference: This is the insert style I'm referring to.

 

[FredC]

Personally, I would not use one of those type inserts. I did use one on a turret lathe a long time ago and it was OK. On a CNC I would be afraid of losing the insert in a cycle and making a mess when something collides with the part that should not be there.
On a manual machine you can press the insert in with that tool or maybe a 6 inch long piece of brass bar. Push it a little below the cutting edge to wedge it. The little tool with the cam surfaces is for popping it out to change it.
Many cut off blades today are styled after the very successful Manchester blades with the clamp on top and give great service. Others may recommend other good blades.

 

[DouglasJRizzo]

Hello fellow machinists! This is my first time posting on here. So if I need to do anything different please feel free to let me know. I just purchased a blade style cutoff tool for the first time. It comes with the a little wrench that, as far as I understand, is meant for extracting the insert from the blade. However, I'm not sure how to lock in the insert upon installation. When I put it in by hand, I can easily remove it.

Am I supposed to just fit it in snug with my fingers? Will tighten up once it starts running parts? Is there a tool I need to tighten this type of insert in the blade before running it?

Any help is appreciated!

For Reference: This is the insert style I'm referring to.

OK, the little wrench fits in the notch behind the insert. A 1/4 twist and the insert comes loose. When replacing the insert, press it in my hand, then tap it home (gently) with a rubber or plastic mallet. Works for me!

 

[Kratos]

Personally, I would not use one of those type inserts. I did use one on a turret lathe a long time ago and it was OK. On a CNC I would be afraid of losing the insert in a cycle and making a mess when something collides with the part that should not be there.
On a manual machine you can press the insert in with that tool or maybe a 6 inch long piece of brass bar. Push it a little below the cutting edge to wedge it. The little tool with the cam surfaces is for popping it out to change it.
Many cut off blades today are styled after the very successful Manchester blades with the clamp on top and give great service. Others may recommend other good blades.

Thanks! I appreciate the insight.

 

[Kratos]

OK, the little wrench fits in the notch behind the insert. A 1/4 twist and the insert comes loose. When replacing the insert, press it in my hand, then tap it home (gently) with a rubber or plastic mallet. Works for me!

Thank you!! This is exactly what I was looking for.

 

[CarbideBob]

I have made thousands of these blades sold under many brand names.
Do not tap the cutting edge to seat the insert with anything.
Use a brass rod or other and hit below the the working tip.
The other is to get real hard on first entry to seat it.

Anyone want to guess what these holders go for in 100-250 piece OEM runs?
Bob

 

[atex57]

I have made thousands of these blades sold under many brand names.

Anyone want to guess what these holders go for in 100-250 piece OEM runs?
Bob

$16.56.......

 

[BugRobotics]

I have made thousands of these blades sold under many brand names.
Do not tap the cutting edge to seat the insert with anything.
Use a brass rod or other and hit below the the working tip.
The other is to get real hard on first entry to seat it.

Anyone want to guess what these holders go for in 100-250 piece OEM runs?
Bob

$21/per....

 

[BT Fabrication]

I have made thousands of these blades sold under many brand names.
Do not tap the cutting edge to seat the insert with anything.
Use a brass rod or other and hit below the the working tip.
The other is to get real hard on first entry to seat it.

Anyone want to guess what these holders go for in 100-250 piece OEM runs?
Bob

Id have to guess about the $5-8 mark at most.

 

[camhead420]

let me think....$36.99

 

[Scruffy887]

I used to use that type on my CNC lathes, but no more. I now use the Iscar tang grip. It is also a press in type but it is "L" in shape and presses in from the top. I smack them in with a small polyurethane dead blow hammer. There are certain conditions where the type you are using can get pulled out. What happens after that is not good.

 

[DouglasJRizzo]

Thank you!! This is exactly what I was looking for.

My pleasure. Been using those in my Mori-Seiki SL3-H for decades and never a problem.

 

[Mtndew]

Do not tap the cutting edge to seat the insert with anything.

Pretty much this,
Except I always used the handle of my hammer to knock the insert into place, the wooden end part.
Never had an issue.

 

[CarbideBob]

They started out at around 30 bucks which was decent work back then at around $40 per hour.
Customer would do their own marking and packaging. A lot of toolholders are not actually made by the big name brand guys in-house.
When the price got below 10 I gave up.
Bob

 

[BugRobotics]

They started out at around 30 bucks which was decent work back then at around $40 per hour.
Customer would do their own marking and packaging. A lot of toolholders are not actually made by the big name brand guys in-house.
When the price got below 10 I gave up.
Bob

Price is Right rules .

Damn $10/ea? That would suck. Were you machining pre-hard material and then shipping out for black oxide/whatever coating?