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Blue pipe for airlines

AndyF

Stainless
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Location
Phelps, NY, USA
I'm getting ready to install the air distribution system in my new shop and am considering using rigid blue aluminum pipe. It looks like it will be relatively easy to install compared to black pipe or copper and should hold up reasonably well.

I'm curious what others experiences have been with it and what connector system is preferred? I see a lot of links to Transair, some to Unipipe and it seems that there are a few others as well.

The shop is 1500 sqft and will have about 9 drops to machines and a hose reel. I will be using a Champion 7.5hp compressor and probably keep the distribution system at about 120psi with regulators and filters at each drop.
 

52 Ford

Stainless
Joined
May 20, 2021
I'm getting ready to install the air distribution system in my new shop and am considering using rigid blue aluminum pipe. It looks like it will be relatively easy to install compared to black pipe or copper and should hold up reasonably well.

I'm curious what others experiences have been with it and what connector system is preferred? I see a lot of links to Transair, some to Unipipe and it seems that there are a few others as well.

The shop is 1500 sqft and will have about 9 drops to machines and a hose reel. I will be using a Champion 7.5hp compressor and probably keep the distribution system at about 120psi with regulators and filters at each drop.

I haven't messed with the blue pipe, but it seems to work well. I think you can use Sharkbite fittings with it.

Personally, I like copper.

You may already know this, but when you make your runs of pipe, you need to consider where the condensation will end up.

One layout that I've seen that looks interesting is having your main runs all angled to run back to a low point with a ball valve and have all of the drops tee off the the top of the main line. Just have the drops go up and then 180 degrees down. Helps to have a tee at the end of each drop, too, so you can have a low point below your regulators that you can drain.
 

Greg Menke

Diamond
Joined
Feb 22, 2004
Location
Baltimore, MD, USA
I did the angled run with tees and drops- never had any water drain out but it does collect in the compressor tank. OTOH I have a compressor upgrade in the works, so will relocate the old one as an accumulator to one of the drain taps at the far end of the system.
 

MCritchley

Hot Rolled
Joined
Mar 22, 2007
Location
Milwaukee
I like the blue coiled pipe, we did our new shop service with it. We got the supplies from Northern. I was impressed that a tubing cutter sliced through the tubing easily without crushing it. The compression fittings work fine and installation is fast.
It’s a good modern product.
 

Just a Sparky

Hot Rolled
Joined
May 2, 2020
Location
Minnesota
All the air lines I've ever seen installed in big factories, hospitals, airports, schools, public works buildings, etc. have been sweated copper. Talking anywhere from 1.5 horse maintenance pumps to 25 horse QR-25 tank units - even all the way up to tandem 125-horse skids. I'd personally take a hint out of that book and follow suit.
 

boslab

Titanium
Joined
Jan 6, 2007
Location
wales.uk
You can mix and match the blue pipe with copper with relative impunity, they seem to be shark type fittings, I put a ring of 2” with 1/2” drops, the 2” ring acts as an accumulator as well, might as well add some cu feet
Mark
 

DocsMachine

Titanium
Joined
Jan 8, 2005
Location
Southcentral, AK
Back in '18, I outfitted my entire shop with Rapidair from Northern. Two sets of 3/4", and one set of 1/2" for a couple of tricky spots. A total of nine drops with eleven outlets, all fed from a 60-gallon upright in a side room.

One water separator/filter, and one filter/regulator. I keep the whole system at about 90 psi, and it's been pressurized 24-7 since around September of '18. If I'm not using air, the compressor might run once or twice a month. Basically get zero moisture at any of the main shop drops- the output from the compressor has several feet of downhill back toward it, and it's in a cooler side room. The water traps seem to catch it all.

Total cost including a fistful of brand new QD's, a bunch of extra wall clips, the water separators and so on, was roughly a grand. And probably one of the single best upgrades I've done to the shop.

For the Rapidair stuff, some tips:

Order more wall clips. The kits, in my opinion, don't come with enough.

Take the time to straighten long runs. You'll be thankful once it's all up.

Lightly oil the threads on the compression nuts. Mine, being nickel-plated, seemed a touch rough, and a bit of lube seemed to help get a good cinch on them.

Use the deburring tool. It chamfers the inside and outside edge of the cut end, and that seems to be a key to a good O-ring seal on the connections.

Doc.
 

memphisjed

Stainless
Joined
Jan 21, 2019
Location
Memphis
It is fast and easy to put up. Leaks all the time with bridge crane shifting. I thought is was general building movement- turns out bridge cranes and it do not mix. I hate the stuff because of it is always leaking.

It is really easy to install...
 

Bondo

Hot Rolled
Joined
May 14, 2011
Location
Bridgeton NJ
I have installed a bunch of the blue aluminum air piping from ingersoll rand. Expensive but very nice stuff. I like it because the fittings are infinitely reusable. You just have to make sure you push the pipe into the fitting the correct distance.

I like copper and propress though. So fast, so easy, so not rusting, and so available.
 

52 Ford

Stainless
Joined
May 20, 2021
All the air lines I've ever seen installed in big factories, hospitals, airports, schools, public works buildings, etc. have been sweated copper. Talking anywhere from 1.5 horse maintenance pumps to 25 horse QR-25 tank units - even all the way up to tandem 125-horse skids. I'd personally take a hint out of that book and follow suit.

That's my thinking.

Plus since copper pipe is so ubiquitous, you can get pretty much any size, sort, or shape of fitting you need.

There's something satisfying about watching solder wet out on a big joint, too.
 

guythatbrews

Stainless
Joined
Dec 14, 2017
Location
MO, USA
I used 3/4" rapid air from northern. Agree if you are picky its tough to uncoil straight, even with their straightening tool. Very clean stuff easy to work with and not hard on the wallet. Installed manifolds for future, rapidair blue 1/2" nylon for drops.

The fittings are hard nickle plated brass, manifolds aluminum. Have had some leakers because 3/4 Male npt on fittings is not right, too much truncation on Crest provides leak path. That is using the blue pipe dope. The nuts on the tube side squeal when you tighten them. Some lube is needed. We used teflon tape not sure of best method.

If you use it check for leaks before you move stuff in the way. We did not. Ugh.
 








 
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