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Building Lathe Bench / Might I Be Overlooking Something ?

RebarRepurposer

Plastic
Joined
May 6, 2023
Greetings, Fellow Doers of Things ~

When I grow up, I think I’d like to be a Tool and Die Maker. Between that and Millwright-ing, it seems to be what I’m most preoccupied with in my laughably-limited spare time !

Now I’m probably technically a hobbyist on this front, but I *have* gotten paid a few dozen times for turning and drilling and cutting and even welding steel things over the years. But I’m pretty sure the most I’ve ever paid for tooling on any specific job was a couple hundred bucks - which represents the high-upper limit of my usual budget. I’ve mostly just made do with things I inherited from my (great)-grandpa.

The centerpiece of this humble collection is a partially-functional 1950s <anonymous American> 12” Metal Lathe; in not too bad of shape if you look past the lack of a main leadscrew. So, no threading, no powerfeed, basic things like that most people take for granted. That said, it’d been sitting in the shed for the last couple years, and I finally got a free weekend recently to get it put back together.

Now, what I really like to do with it, is process random scrap junk - usually pretty rusty - into dimensionally-useful parts, that maintain some of their original “charm”. I use a *lot* of rebar. I like making things like handwheels, pan racks, furnishings, mounting brackets, tool handles etc etc that are *obviously* rebar, but shined-up and clear-coated. So for these purposes I’m not terribly impacted by the missing leadscrew, and I don’t feel too bad about getting things dirty. They clean up nicely.

But my lathe doesn’t have a proper bench. It’s sitting on the back porch, on one of those big wooden cable spools, bolted onto a couple inches of beech plywood, with cinderblocks and jackstands supporting the ends. And so while this is functionally better than *no* lathe, I’m deeply annoyed with the flimsy sloppiness of it all.

I’m convinced the next few hundred bucks I should spend, is on a good solid foundation for this marvelous and filthy mess of American iron. And so I’d like to divulge my plan, bouncing it off this illustrious panel of experts, with what must be many thousands of years of combined experience. Without further ado:

***

The Bench.
I’m planning to buy a four-foot long tube of rectangular steel, 4” x 10” with 1/4” wall thickness. This will be sandblasted, inside and out, and the appropriate holes drilled (and perhaps tapped) for mounting bolts. Then, the tube will be fully stuffed with what I figure to be nearly nine gallons of epoxy granite. This will be capped off at the ends for at least long enough to set up, and the whole thing set standing tall upon a vibrating table so as to liberate as many air bubbles as I can shake out. (I may or may not keep the ends capped with steel plate - haven’t decided this detail yet).

For *risers, I plan to use the eight-or-so cement blocks I’ve got laying around - the kind with a single rebar hole through the middle - mortaring them like bricks, and pouring sufficient concrete to fully encase them in a cylindrical (or perhaps conical, or even possibly pyramidal) mold, with steel plate on top suitable to bolt the aforementioned rectangular steel tube benchtop. Preferably, these plates will be firmly fastened to the length of rebar through the bricks, whether by welding or threads (or both).

I’m estimating total costs to run roughly $500 or so, give or take a few. Much of the material I already have, which is at least somewhat informing my strategy to keep costs lower. I also need to be physically capable of disassembing the whole thing and moving it, if necessary - so each component cannot weigh *so* much that I’d need more than an engine puller and sturdy hand truck to shuffle it about.

***
Now, I can’t see any reason why this wouldn’t work fantastically for my purposes, and I don’t really see a more worthy direction to go with my funds. I’m stoked to see what this beast is capable of with a real bench underneath it.

And so the reason I’m here of course is to ask, am I missing something ?

Of course I’ve *thought* about just buying a workbench for it; but in my neck of the woods, something suitable costs nearly if-not-more than what I’m proposing. And honestly, I don’t see how the mass and stiffness I’m putting together won’t just end up being superior to the stock offerings. Furthermore, I feel this to be something with inherent *research* value. I know *I’d* watch that YouTube video !

Thanks everyone for your attention; I look forward to any sincere replies I can get !
 
Last edited:
Yes, you overlooked the forum rules. Don't be surprised if this thread gets locked by the site owner. Edit your thread title and delete the name of the lathe for starters.

TOPIC TITLES NEED TO BE DESCRIPTIVE

The worst topic titles are things like-

1. Please Help !
2. Hey everybody, look at this !

But even more specific titles like-

1. Need info on D31
2. G53

Are meaningless or nearly so to many, so will be locked as meaningless.

 
Why expensive epoxy concrete rather then the regular stuff? For my lathe risers I used 6" pvc filled with concrete. I used some 1/2 pvc pipe to form holes for the hold down bolts. I just left the pipe on to this day. A little paint and they look better then my concrete skills.
Bill D
 
Yes, you overlooked the forum rules. Don't be surprised if this thread gets locked by the site owner. Edit your thread title and delete the name of the lathe for starters.

TOPIC TITLES NEED TO BE DESCRIPTIVE

The worst topic titles are things like-

1. Please Help !
2. Hey everybody, look at this !

But even more specific titles like-

1. Need info on D31
2. G53

Are meaningless or nearly so to many, so will be locked as meaningless.

Much appreciated!
 
If you go to all that trouble and expense make it big enough that it will support a real lathe when you get tired of fighting that one.
Do some research there has been some debate if solid concrete is better or worse then loose gravel.
Folks here throw in old carbide into wet concrete to make it denser. Scrap iron has the same effect. At the lab they used heavy concrete made form iron ore, taconite?, for the aggregate.
Bill D
 
Why expensive epoxy concrete rather then the regular stuff? For my lathe risers I used 6" pvc filled with concrete. I used some 1/2 pvc pipe to form holes for the hold down bolts. I just left the pipe on to this day. A little paint and they look better then my concrete skills.
Bill D

The risers I do plan on making out of regular concrete; the epoxy granite is just inside the top tube. I can get a gallon of resin and another gallon of hardener for $50. This means at my calculations, it’ll be under $25 worth of epoxy. It’s about 88% play sand and bead-blaster beads.

Good points; keep ‘em coming :)
 
If you go to all that trouble and expense make it big enough that it will support a real lathe when you get tired of fighting that one.
Do some research there has been some debate if solid concrete is better or worse then loose gravel.
Folks here throw in old carbide into wet concrete to make it denser. Scrap iron has the same effect. At the lab they used heavy concrete made form iron ore, taconite?, for the aggregate.
Bill D

No doubt, I’d love a bigger lathe, but I’m obliged to work with the lathe I have, and not the one I wish I had. $500 won’t go very far towards a bigger and better machine, but it *can* make this one the best it can be, know what I mean ?
 
Yes, you overlooked the forum rules. Don't be surprised if this thread gets locked by the site owner. Edit your thread title and delete the name of the lathe for starters.

TOPIC TITLES NEED TO BE DESCRIPTIVE

The worst topic titles are things like-

1. Please Help !
2. Hey everybody, look at this !

But even more specific titles like-

1. Need info on D31
2. G53

Are meaningless or nearly so to many, so will be locked as meaningless.


When I say I have a 12” lathe, people think I mean *one* thing, but when I tell them the brand, only *then* do they realize what I *actually* mean.

The nature of my question, is basically this: given the hand I’m dealt, is there a better application for ~$500, that I may be overlooking ? Insights such as “buy a better lathe” only have meaning insofar as one would be willing to sell me a better lathe in that price range !
 
For south bend I see lots of used threading gearboxes for sale as well as longer lead screws to match. Are Atlas lathe parts like that being sold cheap? I once saw a thrown out atlas bed with no headstock but two tailstocks facing each other and geared together. Maybe a glass lathe?
The first lathes used belt drive lead screws. Not accurate for threading but they can move the carriage or compound along. Today probably easier to use a motor.
Bill D
 
I'm not sure where you're at, but if you're willing to put $500 into that thing you're really not that far from getting something actually useful. You should be able to find a serviceable, actually useful lathe for $1-2K, maybe even with tooling. Auction prices for manual machines are not that high now. Sometimes you might find a deal from a shop that just needs the space. 'Course if you're in a machinery desert, that's another matter.
 
He is somewhere in Oregon, not sure what the pickings are like up there. I'd say keep your costs down on the bench, keep your eyes open for a better lathe, there are deals to be had. Is your lathe missing a leadscrew? Or never had one? Not having a leadscrew would suck imho, maybe you don't realize what you are missing if you've never had one? For heavy aggregate I use copper slag, its cheap and plentiful.

Edit: Not sure how far this is from you, asking price is $1300, $1000 cash and a couple guys ready to load it would probably get it. https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/hendey-lathe-for-sale-kitsap-peninsula-wa.412825/
 
Spend the $500 in tooling that can go to another lathe in the future.

Anyhow regarding the lathe. Take a 12 inch sono tube and a 8 inch sono tube. Fill the space between them with concrete so you have a pipe the length of the lathe. Remove the outer sono tube and build a form for a riser a couple inches high, that match your lathe's footprint. Pour more cement and Install anchor bolts that match the existing bolt holes on your lathe

Spray the bottom of the lathe with release agent, or use a plastic thin film.

Put enough bondo on top of the cement risers, to make good contact with the lathe footprint. Set the lathe on the bondo, or use grout instead.

I highly doubt anything heavier will make any further improvement, and this only costs about 5 bags of cement.

The purpose of this is to hold both ends of thr lathe bed in a fixed-fixed condition, which may be significant. Some have done similar, bolting both ends of small lathes to a cement slab, and have reported being able to cut steel with a parting blade and were not able before.
 
I see a southbend 9" lathe for $900 on craigs list in Oregon or one for $600 in Washington.
Folks like SB lathes because they unbolt into a few parts that two guys can carry up or down a basement stairway.
Bill D
 
Spend the $500 in tooling that can go to another lathe in the future.

Anyhow regarding the lathe. Take a 12 inch sono tube and a 8 inch sono tube. Fill the space between them with concrete so you have a pipe the length of the lathe. Remove the outer sono tube and build a form for a riser a couple inches high, that match your lathe's footprint. Pour more cement and Install anchor bolts that match the existing bolt holes on your lathe

Spray the bottom of the lathe with release agent, or use a plastic thin film.

Put enough bondo on top of the cement risers, to make good contact with the lathe footprint. Set the lathe on the bondo, or use grout instead.

I highly doubt anything heavier will make any further improvement, and this only costs about 5 bags of cement.

The purpose of this is to hold both ends of thr lathe bed in a fixed-fixed condition, which may be significant. Some have done similar, bolting both ends of small lathes to a cement slab, and have reported being able to cut steel with a parting blade and were not able before.
I like where you’re going with this, because you’ve picked up that I’m committed to making *this* lathe work; even if I get a new one, I still have this one to deal with; and since it’s basically an heirloom selling it is not an option.

I’m admittedly a bit fuzzy on the sono tube shape; are you suggesting the bench top be cylindrical ? I hadn’t really considered that.
 
Atlas lathes have leadscrews so it's not one of them. Buy some 2X4s and cross-brace the shit out of a wood bench. 2X6s for the top.
Oh it *had* a leadscrew - but it was removed and put in a “safe place”, and didn’t make it in the last move. It may turn up one of these days, but it would need a few replacement gears and bearings. That’d be fine, but it’s not presently in the cards. In any event, it doesn’t change the bench requirements, so I’m proceeding with solving that problem.
 
For south bend I see lots of used threading gearboxes for sale as well as longer lead screws to match. Are Atlas lathe parts like that being sold cheap? I once saw a thrown out atlas bed with no headstock but two tailstocks facing each other and geared together. Maybe a glass lathe?
The first lathes used belt drive lead screws. Not accurate for threading but they can move the carriage or compound along. Today probably easier to use a motor.
Bill D
You’re on the same page as I am; while replacement powerfeed parts exist and can easily be found on ebay, so far they’ve been cost-prohibitive. Replacement leadscrews regularly go for a hundred, and honestly I’m hoping the original one turns up *before* I shell out that kind of cash. It’s probably somewhere squirreled away in the last place it lived, but so far it hasn’t turned up. It will also need some bearing parts, which isn’t too big a deal but it’s a hurdle for a later day.

I like that thing about the two tailstocks - I can easily think of a thousand ways it’d be useful. Making something spin on a setup like that would be trivially easy, if I had a reason to. And of course I wouldn’t throw out my perfectly good headstock to make it, but I’d go ahead piece it together thus if I had extra parts laying around.

While I have *this* lathe, I’m committed to making it work as well as I can before possibly getting an upgrade, because I’m fairly certain the ever-patient wife wouldn’t appreciate hundreds of dollars going toward *another* big machine tool on the back porch, unless it’s paying for itself and a new garage ! But she *can* appreciate my efforts in restoring her children’s great-great grandfathers’ legacy, which is the basis of her forebearance in this case. Not that I need *permission* by any stretch, but rather that life is generally better when she’s not begrudging me for my expensive habits.
 
I see a southbend 9" lathe for $900 on craigs list in Oregon or one for $600 in Washington.
Folks like SB lathes because they unbolt into a few parts that two guys can carry up or down a basement stairway.
Bill D
Right, this relative portability is a big part of why I can carry on in the first place. My machine can technically be scooted about here and there, while being significantly more robust than the imported Chinese objects.
 
I am in the camp that says you should be able to make/find a decent bench for less than $100. Use the $400 for tooling, etc.

Some people occasionally find lathes that are probably much better than yours for next to nothing. Use your lathe and keep on the lookout for a better one.

If you have room larger lathes are often less expensive than smaller lathes.
 
I am in the camp that says you should be able to make/find a decent bench for less than $100. Use the $400 for tooling, etc.

Some people occasionally find lathes that are probably much better than yours for next to nothing. Use your lathe and keep on the lookout for a better one.

If you have room larger lathes are often less expensive than smaller lathes.
Thank you for replying; this is of course a perspective I’m taking into account. I think what’s still tipping me into the Build It! camp is the legacy/heirloom aspect. As this was handed down to me, I feel a sense of responsibility to make a lasting contribution to the next generation - without compromising functionality of course.

The bench I’m proposing - while certainly more that a hundred dollars, will gleam in the sun, as a perpetual testament to the perennial importance of a lasting foundation. My grandkids will see it and know that I did that, and the same blood flows in their veins. I don’t know of a $400 tool investment that would go so far. A wooden bench is, well, a wooden bench. And a concrete top slab will creep for months / years while it cures. But this bench I’m proposing will be nigh-instantly dimensionally stable, both now and forever.

I could see the argument if what I were proposing were *impractical* for some reason. But as far as I can tell, it’s imminently practical. In a parallel train, if I were proposing, say, a solid granite slab like a repurposed surface plate, the high cost would clearly be money better spent elsewhere.

So it’s a philosophical expression, and not merely a practical one. I generally believe you get roughly what you pay for. Over the multigenerational life of the tool, I’m having a hard time convincing myself it’s not worth it.
 








 
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