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Buying a Schaublin 135

marcsO

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Location
SURREY
BMW's (never-the-f**k AGAIN, thanks!)

I had an old X5, it did 250,000 miles and was brilliant, had a Merc C AMG, pile of rubbish, most modern cars now have so much electronics and 'stuff' that inevitably is the Achilles heel of modern cars - Audi IMO are now better than Mercedes and BMW.

Its interesting now that so many 'European' cars are in the USA, not wanting to diss American cars but OMG there are some pups out there, ugly things that don't handle round corners and ride like an old mattress. Your Jag and Rangie are cool, hope they deliver a decent ride and enjoyment.

Marc
 
Joined
Jan 15, 2005
Location
The Netherlands
I could use some standard parts, but the swiss made things just a little different.
Like the crank handles, not the ame as others.
The rubber on top of the headstock is 5mm thick instead of the usual 2 mm. Where to get this?
On the top of the headstock there is an oil glas shaped like a bulb. One would think this is a standard part, but no, some swiss thing only known within sight of the Matterhorn I guess.
But then Deckel mostly used suppliers from within a 100km around Munich. But at least that is DIN country.

I do not know the Ruemema guy. Judging by his website he must be....lets say...."difficult".


That is the swiss profit scenario
Collets with a pitch you cannot make on a normal lathe Bearings with od sizes or features
Variator belts Even their low profile allen head screws are nowhere to be found
Then you have to buy them in Switserland at a premium
A piece of 5mm rubber should not be that difficult though Or does it have a profile ??

Peter
 

Screwmachine

Titanium
Joined
Mar 8, 2001
Location
Switzerland
That is the swiss profit scenario
Collets with a pitch you cannot make on a normal lathe Bearings with od sizes or features
Variator belts Even their low profile allen head screws are nowhere to be found
Then you have to buy them in Switserland at a premium
A piece of 5mm rubber should not be that difficult though Or does it have a profile ??

Peter
I have a Habegger 102 screwcutting lathe; it's metric but the leadscrew is inch (?!) and one of the threads in the chart is the W20 1.666mm thread, haha.
 

thermite

Diamond
Joined
Sep 21, 2011
Location
Sol, Terra
Your Jag and Rangie are cool, hope they deliver a decent ride and enjoyment.

Marc

LOL! These two were built with good UK brains, Ford's MONEY, and mostly Aluminium body & chassis. Add my fetish for the best match in brakes and grippy-not-slippy footwear?

Grins! Bigtime!

But I HAVE been known to rent Alfa 75 through Lancia, and Audi "TT" whilst in Schweiz, Austria, the North of Italy, "etc."

Cheaped-out on a Mert-Sadist out of Kloten once. Wasn't the least-cost of the D-B line, but even so, the shiddy tires had ruint any respect for Daimler-Bents by the time I got to Adliswil!

Took it back the next MORNING and turned it in. For a FIAT "Chroma". Modest 4-banger, but a proper mountaineer's touring car!

Brakes. Tires. BALANCE = predictable control.

Motor is but sound effects, you cannot keep it coupled to the road firmly.

So, too, predictable and enduring accuracy in a machine-tool.

"Class tells. Class sells.. and "Class"? Will never let you down."
 

marcsO

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Location
SURREY
Guys posted on a few forums in my time but seems pictures on this platform are not straightforward so need some help...

In my early posts pictures are small and often in the wrong orientation even though on my computer where I get them from they are the right way up! Also not able to find a way to post multiple pics in one go (easily) either. Finally if you post the wrong picture I have found no way to edit the post and remove a picture so please can someone spell it out how best to do this as moving forward when I post about the re-build on the 135 I want the pictures to look right and be a decent size/quality.

Thx
Marc
 

marcsO

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Location
SURREY
A few weeks ago I grabbed a few items for this lathe from where it was being stored, the Multifix toolholder and the fixed steady, both grubby but spent a few hours cleaning them up and wire wheeling the tooling parts and polishing the brass bearings from the steady - come up nice so hopefully the lathe will do so also once I get stuck in.
Collect the lathe in a few days and will post some pictures of the process and move to its new home.

IMG_3778.jpg
IMG_3779.jpg
IMG_3780.jpg

Marc
 

marcsO

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Location
SURREY
What is up with this forum and pictures, why the hell does it turn them [email protected]!!!!!!!!!!
Someone please help point me in the right direction to post pictures the right way...

Marc
 

marcsO

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Location
SURREY
Testing pictures as hoping it only likes pictures in landscape.....

Either way made up two dollies to bolt to the 135 stand so that when I'm working on it it can be moved (with the help of some mates) relatively easily. Had the castors from a machine shop sale, very heavy duty, plate is 12mm x 120mm and hoping the bolts which are 22mm will work as only was able to roughly scale the bolt size from the drawings in the service manual, will see tomorrow if they fit and work.

IMG_3789.jpg

marc
 
Joined
Jan 15, 2005
Location
The Netherlands
What is up with this forum and pictures, why the hell does it turn them [email protected]!!!!!!!!!!
Someone please help point me in the right direction to post pictures the right way...

Marc

Go to your member page
Click albums and post your picture there (I know it is a bit of a hassle)
Then copy the BBC code and paste that into your text
Resize your pictures to a decent size of say 1000pics before
This way you are independent from anyone else

Peter
 

marcsO

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Location
SURREY
The 135 has made it back to my workshop, interesting challenge for the machine movers as they felt the weight estimate which I took from the manual of circa 1300kg was a bit off and suggested it to be closer to 1600-1800kg, either way the tail lift managed to get the machine lifted into the truck - just!

My end was a logistical challenge as there is no path or road access to my workshop its 60 odd meters across my front garden! The ground is soft due to winter and rains and a low brick wall edges my drive so after breaking three bricks, getting the lorry stuck 3 or 4 times, churning up my garden and rupturing a high pressure hose on the lorry the 135 finally is inside my workshop...

IMG_3800.jpg

I grabbed some T-cut and gave a few random areas a hard rub and seems under the years of baked on grime and oil the paint is OK, there are naturally worn places, chips and chunks of paint missing here and there but I believe this grim has kinda helped protect the machine. Beds do seem fine and inside the covers most items look in good condition. The star wheel on the tailstock makes a clicking noise when on fine feed so suspect something is worn or damaged, will need to take this apart to check over it. Will check oils and lubrication before attempting a start up which hopefully will be done in the next week time permitting.

Couple of pics of quick localised cleaning on tailstock and star wheel hub..

IMG_3802.jpg
IMG_3803.jpg

Marc
 

marcsO

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Location
SURREY
Does anyone know who made/makes the electrical switches used on the 135 to control machine and coolant?

Marc
 

marcsO

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Location
SURREY
Short update on the 135 project, with limited time I've been grabbing a few minutes here and there and found cleaning up the machine was the easiest first job, more from a point of wanting to establish the condition and finding the best method to clean it up. I'm not planning a concours job but just a tidy up.

Looked at lots of cleaning chemicals, Gunk, Jizer, and a few others but found good old petrol to be the best and fastest at removing the grime, it shifts it well and once cleaned off any residue can be tackled with a cutting paste like T-Cut or similar which brings the lustre back to the paint and then a coat of good polish and the results are decent. There are nice natural chips and light damage here and there which is expected from a 60 year old machine and I think I will go with this look rather than strip the paint back and have it re-done. I suspect the chip tray will be the worse area but a little way off tackling this.

The switch gear on the front panel is fine but the little black plastic covers which clip over the base covering the fixing screws has got brittle with age and oils and are broken so and I'm trying to find the switch manufacturer to see if replacements are available, if not will get a mate to 3D print some to replace the broken parts.

Love the way the front panel comes off with no wires attached, Swiss attention to detail, just perfect alignment so switch knobs engage when the panel is secured in place. The electrics look fine, will give them a liberal spray with some contact cleaner before firing it up.

Few pictures of the electrics

IMG_3810.jpg
IMG_3812.jpg

Some of the cover panels cleaned in petrol and polished up, the state of the main base unit is indicative of the grim that was on the covers before starting and the cover that encloses the motor was very thick with grime where oil etc has been slopped about in the past filling the main tank etc.

Will wipe the rest of the machine down with petrol and rags and polish up and then start on the slides and tailstock with a general strip and clean to prepare for running.

IMG_3809.jpg

The switch which requires the new plate for reference if anyone recognises it...

IMG_3807.jpg

Marc
 
Joined
Jan 15, 2005
Location
The Netherlands
Probably Klockner But you will have a hard time finding replacements
These compagnies tend to change their design every couple of decades
That is why I collect old electrical knobs
But it will be easy to replace the whole switch

Peter
 

ballen

Titanium
Joined
Sep 25, 2011
Location
Garbsen, Germany
My Studer grinder, also swiss and from the same era, uses switches made by Ghielmetti, which have different internals but the same form factor. Might be what Schaublin was using.

For the switch plates, any local trophy engraving place can provide black anodized aluminium sheet. Cut and file to size, drill the holes, make a drawing, and they will engrave them. Quick and inexpensive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

marcsO

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Location
SURREY
Thanks guys, appreciate the steer, had a good search around on the internet and found a few similar looking devices but as suggested none quite the same, especially ones which have the switch element on the front panel and the guts of the switch mounted in the cabinet so effectively a two part unit that meshes together when the panel is screwed to the cabinet.

I have a contact at Schaublin UK who might be able to give me some guidance as to best route to take, either way suspect its fabrication of some sort which is fine.

Marc
 

marcsO

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Location
SURREY
Sometimes you get a decent result and today managed a few hours on the front panel. When I had my Hardinge it needed cleaning, not anywhere as bad as the Schaublin but I wanted to give it a going over, at the time the question was what should I use, normal automotive stuff to cut paint back, remove scratches etc? Probably would be fine but I follow a guy on YT (Bart) who has a nice selection of Schaublin kit etc and spends a lot of time doing up tired machines and showing the process, I spotted in one of his video's a cleaning product which goes by the name of 'Commandant' and they make a range of cleaners and polishes for machines. Ended up with some and have used them on the front panel - the cleaner is amazing, the lettering on the panel was hard to clean with petrol, there was a lot of crud really well baked on, tried a scratch remover on a brush but it made no real impact as you really need pressure for the grit to work and the brush did not achieve this. Tried the 'cleaner' which is a really weird stuff, its not gritty but has a T-cut smell, probably ammonia or similar and its like clay coloured slime. Brushed it on and agitated it with the brush and after an hour of just leaving it for 5 mins and then giving it a good wiz over with the brush the baked on black oils came off - wiped down and two coats of a decent polish and its looking really nice - well pleased and great products too.

Before
IMG_3814.jpg

After
IMG_3816.jpg

All the rest should be plain sailing - there is me thinking positive!

Marc
 

marcsO

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Location
SURREY
Toolholders........

The 135 came with a genuine Multifix A tool post and a few holders, I've cleaned up the tool post and holders and before taking the slide off I just placed the A on to check tool tip height and it seems that with 16x16 holders with a down rake tip the height of the tip comes just above the centre of the chuck (using a pointed steady in the chuck for rough alignment) and thats with the holder right on the slide.

I read somewhere that people use a Multifix E and that Schaublin did offer a cut away slide that allowed the toolholder to sit lower. So question - were these slides special order or were they a modified version of the origin slide? There does seem to be enough meat to remove say 10mm of metal but you will still have the twin slots showing etc.

Any pointers and suggestions would be appreciated.

I suspect if it was a special part they are like rocking horse poo but maybe someone has a cheap one and are willing to sell :)

Marc
 








 
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