Clark vs Hyster/Yale 15k forklift

[tomjelly]

I was not able to get the distributor apart, so removed the valve cover and the #4 exhaust valve was stuck! Got it moving properly and the engine runs perfectly. That was the cause of the high starting current and backfire. Now on to the brakes, hydraulics, etc.

 

[Ox]

How does that effect the starting current? (negatively)


Tom, any chance you are related to Ferdinand Morton?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

 

[tomjelly]

I'm not related. The valve was stuck closed as the pushrod had moved aside when there was no valve spring tension on it, so with that exhaust valve closed all the time there must have been a point in rotation where the starter was compressing more than one cylinder at a time, thus the high current draw, at least thats my theory. In any case nothing got bent and it starts easily now. I just moved the stuck valve a bunch of times with a lever, just a bit past its normal lift range and it loosened up right away. Ran it for a while with the valve cover off and it runs fine, I'll go back and check the valve clearances after I get other issues fixed. Next thing is the right drive wheel is frozen, I worked the parking brake lever on the drum up and down a few times- needs to be tapped either direction with a hammer, and in the off position the lift still won't drive. This has the funky single master cylinder that controls both the transmission AND the brakes. Master cylinder is stuck in the brake depressed position, so I undid the wheel cylinder bleeders and the bleeder that controls the inching valve on the trans. I'm going to see if letting it sit overnight relaxes the brakes, I hope. If not I think the only thing I can do is remove the right side final drive to get to the brakes (left side turned on the way up the rollback, right side skidded all the way up) Luckily this uses pucks for braking so there is no drum to get stuck in place.

 

[Ox]

Ah - stuck closed!
Hadn't considered that option...

So - the valve nut had backed off enough to slip out....


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

 

[tomjelly]

Actually it apparently stuck open long enough for the pushrod to get dislodged, and after that happened the valve closed but the pushrod was unable to open it again because it was no longer under the rocker stud. After I put the pushrod back in place I did the valve clearances the first time then turned the engine by hand and was surprised to see that valve stay down (open)! So I worked it up and down and it freed up, put the pushrod back in place AGAIN, ran the starter with no plugs to confirm proper function, then it started and is running fine.

 

[Ox]

Oh, well, in that case, if in the not too distant future - it starts to wheeze ..... and maybe then just miss ....


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

 

[john.k]

When a lot of cars had the crappy guided pushrod /ball stud rocker engines,wasnt uncommmon to have one pushrod come out of the rocker socket and cause a miss............youd often see one or more pushrods with a side worn away .........but at least parts were cheap .

 

[tomjelly]

Luckily it didn't run long enough to damage anything. Yeah the more I've seen of this engine the more I like it, pretty easy to do a rebuild and parts are cheap. Deboss has a full rebuild (but its a diesel, mine is propane) from start to finish on youtube here:

Might consider a Massey for my next tractor if they still use Perkins, as that engine also comes in a 3 cylinder and I only need 33-45hp if diesel. This 4 cylinder is 78 hp.

 

[john.k]

MF is one of the big multinationals now ...AGCO ,or someting.....Perkins is owned by Caterpillar ......and they havent made a decent engine in 20 years ,when all the Legacy engines were dropped ..........a few years ago,everthing mobile in my yard was Perkins powered .....my IH pickup had a 6/354,tractors had 4/270 and 4/236 ,Leyland truck had a V8/640 ,Lincoln welders had 3/152D and a 4/236 ,and even my mower had a P3 ,an oldie from the 1950s .......nearly forgot the Coles crane with a P6 ...circa 1957 .

 

[tomjelly]

Well, I determined that the parking brake was not stuck, because with the lever on the backing plate tapped down into the not applied position I could easily rotate the drum a bit. So it was time for wheel brake on the right side to come apart. Inboard brakes, so off comes the wheel, then the wheel mount/wheel gear/ bearings, and axle end housing. Luckily this has a floating disk and not drum brakes that might have been frozen in place so it came off easily (but heavy) Took a little time but was not at all difficult. There was just enough rust on the brake disk for it to have immobilized the wheel. Cleaned all that up, cleaned and re greased the wheel bearings/axle end gear reduction, put it all together and propped up the other side so I could see if the wheels would turn when I put it in gear. It did...put it back on the ground and it runs and drives! Couldn't go far because I have the master cylinder out to rebuild so ZERO brakes, but I'm encouraged. I will do the other side last, then the parking brake. Topped off the transmission and will need to wait for a master cylinder seal before I go for a longer drive test. Priced up tilt, lift and side shift seals and was surprised I can get everything for about $200 so that will come after the test drive. In the mean time next week I will start on the second lift to see if I can get that one to run. Parts are pretty reasonably priced so far except for the master cylinder, which is $500+ and even a rebuild kit is $325+. I just needed the main seal though and happily found the correct one in epdm from the oringstore.com, $16 for two, shipped.

 

[Garwood]

Well, I determined that the parking brake was not stuck, because with the lever on the backing plate tapped down into the not applied position I could easily rotate the drum a bit. So it was time for wheel brake on the right side to come apart. Inboard brakes, so off comes the wheel, then the wheel mount/wheel gear/ bearings, and axle end housing. Luckily this has a floating disk and not drum brakes that might have been frozen in place so it came off easily (but heavy) Took a little time but was not at all difficult. There was just enough rust on the brake disk for it to have immobilized the wheel. Cleaned all that up, cleaned and re greased the wheel bearings/axle end gear reduction, put it all together and propped up the other side so I could see if the wheels would turn when I put it in gear. It did...put it back on the ground and it runs and drives! Couldn't go far because I have the master cylinder out to rebuild so ZERO brakes, but I'm encouraged. I will do the other side last, then the parking brake. Topped off the transmission and will need to wait for a master cylinder seal before I go for a longer drive test. Priced up tilt, lift and side shift seals and was surprised I can get everything for about $200 so that will come after the test drive. In the mean time next week I will start on the second lift to see if I can get that one to run. Parts are pretty reasonably priced so far except for the master cylinder, which is $500+ and even a rebuild kit is $325+. I just needed the main seal though and happily found the correct one in epdm from the oringstore.com, $16 for two, shipped.

I thought "zero brakes" was standard on old forklifts. After awhile things like brakes and sideshift aren't even a thought.

 

[tomjelly]

Right, brakes are usually an "option" but I have a sloped drive so a 15K lb battering ram will not work well here!

 

[jejump]

I've had some experience with older forklifts. Clark is a solid brand, but they are less popular due to parts availability and dealer network compared to Yale or Hyster. It's crucial to check for any maintenance records and closely assess the hydraulics, brakes, and mast operation, especially for a forklift from the late '80s or early '90s.

 

[Garwood]

I've had some experience with older forklifts. Clark is a solid brand, but they are less popular due to parts availability and dealer network compared to Yale or Hyster. It's crucial to check for any maintenance records and closely assess the hydraulics, brakes, and mast operation, especially for a forklift from the late '80s or early '90s.

What about one from the 60's?

 

[john.k]

Last place I worked ,they had a dozen 40 year old Hysters and Clarks working two shifts .......way to save money for skinflint bosses. The new owners scrapped them all ,and got in new forks on 'serviced lease'.....about $50k a year each.

 

[jejump]

I've had some experience with older forklifts. Clark is a solid brand, but they are less popular due to parts availability and dealer network compared to Yale or Hyster. It's crucial to check for any maintenance records and closely assess the hydraulics, brakes, and mast operation, especially for a forklift from the late '80s or early '90s.

Vintage models can sometimes be pricier, so if you're looking for more affordable options, you might want to take a look at https://www.boomandbucket.com/equipment/forklifts. They often have a good selection at reasonable prices and I my friends found some amazing deals.