Cleaning out a step in 2" SS down to 1". What bits or routes do you take?

[rons]

It sounds like a bs question. But if you've done it before you know.
Hundreds of feet of a sharp wire that curls up everywhere and you constantly remind yourself about not touching it or removing it until turning stops.

I have four 2" rounds 1" tall. The straight bore cut is done (green).
The question is whether the tall bit pictured should sweep across with increasing depths of cut?
Or should the yellow and orange sections be taken out separately?

My experience with hand cranking on the miter angle is always a poor finish.
It's also bs when I have to stop/start every 15-20 sec to clear out the nest.
Something I've never tried is running a parting bit at a diagonal. Is that a badee?



The drawing at the top is actual size.
The drawing below is 2x size.
The round is sitting green side up.
The round is mounted in a 3 jaw with reverse action inside the green section.
A tail stock center is applying force to the right side.

I'm doing this today but maybe I should ask first.

 

[Gordon Heaton]

To mitigate rat's nesting I usually 'peck' at it like when drilling to keep the strings short, then make a light finishing cut which yields a hair-fine ball of relatively harmless swarf at the end.

 

[rons]

A side topic:

The work is for 4 custom feet that will have 1.700 diameter Tivar plastic inserts pressed into the green zone.
Making these because nothing was available to suit my tastes.

How do people get by these days with the run-of-the-mill junk?

 

[mnl]

Look for quality stuff that can be repurposed. Probably too light duty for your application, but vey nicely made.

Tango Spinner

tangospinner.com

 

[rons]

To mitigate rat's nesting I usually 'peck' at it like when drilling to keep the strings short, then make a light finishing cut which yields a hair-fine ball of relatively harmless swarf at the end.

I guess I should have tried that but I am always cranking in a continuous sweep for the ultimate finish.
The peck operation slows things up a little but does keep the strands from piling up.

Another thing is that I used the brazed carbide in the pic to shear cut going from directions NNE to SSW.
The cut produce curls which neatly dropped onto the cross slide.
The Hardinge compound has a retract lever for threading. I used it for shaving back and forth. Made it very easy.

 

[rons]

These are some custom feet for a wet tile saw.
I used this forum to work on the project.
Have been posting a few pictures of it before, but now it's done.

Some other posts were about using perfect triangle measurements.
I used 18 degrees for the down-slope angle for the feet.
The feet bottoms have Tivar 1000 inserts and the thread is 3/8-24.
The 3/8-24 Allen head bolts for the feet were purchased at Olander in Sunnyvale.
The finish on them were sort of like a aluminum lookiong finish.
In contrast to all of the other hardware in SS that I already had in stock which have that gray cast..
So I write about this because the fit of my GH3 tapped hole in the SS foot runs tighter
than what my experience has shown. So I wonder if the Olander SS 2" long Allen bolts
are of import quality and slightly oversize? I'm just comparing to new old stock usa stuff from 8-10 years ago.

The amount of stainless rolls that came off just looks like insufficient mass. After doing four, no more please.
Fills the entire waste bin. I would like to see how a CNC lathe would navigate the tremendous amount of rolls.

Some pics and then a question.

Original design which would lay on a rubber mat.


Addition of feet.


Now the question.


The aluminum bar support should have it's edges cut done.
I use a 45 degree cut piece of wood as a guide with a diamond stone for square flat pieces.
I would probably have to use a round file and it would come out sloppy.
Or I could hit it with some sanding block and same thing.

In the wood working world I could use a router with a 45 degree bevel cutter and a bearing guide.
I've seen manufacturing videos that have robotic arms with small spinning cutters cutting perfect contours.
What exists for the "by hand guy" that can achieve perfect 45 degree edges?

This is a tool a friend made for me. Walnut handle with a .125 cylinder of carbide 2" long.
Used to burnish wood scraper edges. Wonder if there is an equivalent for metal but with a depth adjustment or stop.

 

[Gordon Heaton]

Nice work. should be pleasant to use.