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Clever way to deburr this in-machine?

Comatose

Titanium
Joined
Feb 25, 2005
Location
Akron, OH
I have a part where I am slitting between the fins of a heatsink with a saw. Pictures attached. It leaves an annoying paper-thin by full width of the breakthrough burr inside the heatsink. You can pick it out and break it off, but that's time consuming (six of these per part, a couple thousand parts a year.)

Does anyone have a clever way to deburr this easily, ideally in-machine? I'm thinking I might try fabbing up a broach or file, mount it on a tool holder, orient it with the spindle and then use the mill like a shaper for a pass or two, but that seems chancey in terms of alignment. Maybe if it was made to float, or a custom/modified holder had a mating alignment key. I could also come back from the outside side with a bigger saw between the fins and cut it of that way, but it'd have to be a pretty big saw and that would ruin how many I can get onto a pallet.

Tumbling can't touch it and bead blast just mushes the burr into a rounder shape, but doesn't remove it.

This is a couple thousand per year part with a five year lifespan, so some level of spending and effort is warranted, but it's not so many that custom automation or stamping dies or anything of that nature would pay for itself.

Any bright ideas?
 

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I like the broach idea. If doing it in-machine is a pain, set up a cheap 1T arbor press with a dedicated fixture and punch the tags out as the parts come out of the machine. I'd be inclined to build a multi-punch and do it in one stroke.
 
One side of the break thru has no burr. Rough and finish that side they way you currently do.

Have a duplicate saw flipped upside down and finish the other half of the arc from the opposite direction.
Will add some cycle time.
I was thinking the saw from the other side, but this sure sounds like it will work
 
One side of the break thru has no burr. Rough and finish that side they way you currently do.

Have a duplicate saw flipped upside down and finish the other half of the arc from the opposite direction.
Will add some cycle time.

It's a solid cutter right now (1" diameter 1/2" shank) but this seems brilliant. I'll see if I can find a left handed version or a skinny arbor for a saw.
 
Well....your pics are lousy but in any case I find it hard to believe tumbling wouldn't work. If the media 'can't touch it', use a smaller media.
 
How about a VERY non OSHA approved air blast?

And I do mean BLAST, with a very small orifice.

I can break a .012 dia drill bit with the one I have.:D
 


MCrichley is on the right path. The Xebec is nice, but spendy. I would try the concept with some 3M bristle discs to get an idea of what the results would be like before investing in a couple hundred in the Xebec.

The air idea is also pretty solid!
 
This is an extremely helpful post. Why didn't I think of that?

Don't feel bad...I run across people all the time who seek free advice with little background then are astounded when someone points out the obvious. If you work hard and keep your nose clean, in 30 or 40 years you'll be able to do work around the house for people like me.
 
Don't feel bad...I run across people all the time who seek free advice with little background then are astounded when someone points out the obvious. If you work hard and keep your nose clean, in 30 or 40 years you'll be able to do work around the house for people like me.

Oh I can't imagine you'd let me in the door, even with 30 years more experience. Long haired freaky people and all. But since you're being so kind as to stoop to drip small drops of your great knowledge onto my parched and addled brain, and because my extremely poor pictures probably didn't make it clear:

The slots with the burr are 3/32" wide and 3/4" long. The burr is buried 1/8" deep between the fins of a heat sink. Those fins continue on for .6" The burr is on the short edge.

Can you kindly tell me a tumbling media geometry and size that will 1) reach through the slot and get to the burr and 2) not jam up between the heatsink fins.
 
I heard extrude hone. It'd be perfect, except I don't have one, and it's not known for being the cheapest process to outsource round these parts. This is a heatsink, not a valve body.

If I was in Shenzhen that would be a perfect suggestion and I'd make a phone call.

I got a bad haircut in 1995 and that was that. Ohio's not that tough.
 
The problem with extrude hone is it's expensive, no matter how you do it. I suppose if you were in China and could steal the technology without licensing it, and had your own machine, and didn't have to worry about the EPA and it's waste disposal regs...you'd be running cheap. But not here. Plus, Extrude Hone is not known for always taking the material away from the places you want it gone and not the places you want to keep.

A 2MM tumbling media would seem to be just right for this job, is cheap, and easy to implement.
 








 
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