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CNC Machine Cleaning and Swapping Coolant Brands

motofish84

Plastic
Joined
Feb 22, 2021
I'm beginning the process of swapping out the coolant I use on my one HAAS TM1P
W/ a 20 Gal Tank

I've been running Trim C390 for a little over a year, While the coolant seems great for 6061, Which is all I machine, it gets gummy and leaves machine surfaces with a tacky film and collects on my tool changer then drips on the table, fixtures etc. Also on some of the other exposed areas. Chips then build up on the gummy spots. Anyway this gets annoying and I don't love the aerosolized drops of it. (My machine is in a smaller room 20x15 with an exhaust fan)

I've decided to look for a different coolant that is hopefully, more operator and machine friendly.

I've settled on Addvance 6030C - A botanical based fluid. (interested in opinions on this)

My questions are related to deep cleaning the machine to remove the tacky residue, evacuating the coolant from the sump and replenishing with the new coolant at proper concentration.

Here's my current plan:
-I plan to use the washdown hose / pump to evac most of the coolant in the system into a barrel. Soak up the remaining mix with oil dry pads and dispose of them. Thoroughly dry / VAC the sump.

-Fill the sump with pure RO and rinse the machine down. Spray / wipe / scrub the inner surfaces with Purple Power degreaser, thoroughly rinse with the washdown and then empty the sump of all of the contaminated RO. (Hoping there's enough of the previous coolant to act as a rust inhibitor)

-Refill the sump with fresh RO and the new coolant and give the machine another thorough rinse with the new coolant mix.


Any holes in my plan?

Should I be concerned with the little bit of intermix from old coolant left on the surface or degreaser from cleaning mixing in with the new coolant?

I've never done this before so I don't know, what I don't know short of what i've seen online or read on here. Just want to avoid any missteps.

Help is appreciated.

Thanks!
 
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I don't have experience with that coolant, but the fact that it's 'botanical based' raises a red flag....botany is not the place where you want to look for a good base for a coolant. You haven't said 'why' you think it will be better but it's a fallacy that being a 'natural' product is better for you. For example, cyanide is purely an organic substance but I wouldn't suggest inhaling it.
 
I don't have experience with that coolant, but the fact that it's 'botanical based' raises a red flag....botany is not the place where you want to look for a good base for a coolant. You haven't said 'why' you think it will be better but it's a fallacy that being a natural' product is better for you. For example, cyanide is purely an organic substance but I wouldn't suggest inhaling it.
I read a couple positive reviews of it.

I like that (based on what the company states) It doesn't leave a film / residue. Has excellent rancidity control, no sulfurs. Excellent rust prevention. No dermatitis. Low to no foaming.

I too have a little concern with the "natural / plant based' approach. Natural stuff can turn into a science experiment real fast if not careful. For the medium duty machining I do and the fact that I only machine aluminum for now and will likely only run aluminum or plastics on this machine, this stuff seems like a good route.


 
Do you check concentration? I ran c320 and never had those issues. Cleaners are nice but WAY more toxic than the coolants and most fresh coolants will clean the machine too. I use a coolant soaked rag to loosen the film then a clean water rinse before charging with new.
 
Do you check concentration? I ran c320 and never had those issues. Cleaners are nice but WAY more toxic than the coolants and most fresh coolants will clean the machine too. I use a coolant soaked rag to loosen the film then a clean water rinse before charging with new.
Huh...interesting. I doubt there's that much of a difference between the C390 and C320

I do check typically every week to 10 days or so I'll check and then top up with RO. I haven't calibrated my refractometer in probably 10 months so that's probably due

I was running at 6-8%. I think most of the issue was the coolant collecting on the tool changer, the water evaporating and leaving the thick coolant remnants. Then that would drip onto the table and fixtures etc. As for the airborne stuff, well not sure what your setup is but it's definitely noticeable here, especially when hosing down the inside of the cabinet.
 
I would say you check enough and I doubt the calibration has drifted much, at least my cheap refractometer doesn't. I have full shop ventilation that goes through a heat exchanger so I don't have any mist issues, or bad smells, whatsoever. Maybe the buildup is oils that the coolant has emulsified? I am now using Trim 585xt and while it doesn't leave much of a film at all the oils it has taken on over the last 16 months do.

Please let us know what you think of the new coolant. One word of note is the alkalinity of 9.6 is pretty high which is good for sump life but may be hard on rubbers, plastics, and paint so keep an eye on them. If your system will work with just a few gallons you may wish to run it awhile with new coolant at the least amount mixed possible then remove, rinse, and recharge in a month or so to clean out your machine. Fresh coolant is good at cleaning up a machine and all of the cleaners have very high alkalinity to kill off the nasties so your new coolant may work just fine without them. If you do use a cleaner don't leave it in more than a day or so as they can attack rubbers, plastics, and paint.
 
It is recommended to use something like a 2% concentration of coolant to prevent rust when cleaning / rinsing out an old sump and machine, rather than straight water.
Using your new coolant, this intermediary rinse will prevent the intermixing of old and new coolant.

I'm also curious about this Addvance 6030C coolant. Do let us know what you think.
I noticed that the "technical data sheet" doesn't say anything about refractometer readings to determine concentration.

I've been using Hangs 5030 recently in my VMC and it's terrible. I hate the smell, it burns my sinuses, it doesn't rinse off my parts well and leaves them cloudy looking, and it leaves a waxy residue on my machine and vises which does not rinse off. It's reduced my productivity. When I get through the pail I'm switching.

I may try a Fuchs full synthetic next. I like full synthetics, but am hoping to find something even better than Castrol Syntilo 9918 (which I used for a decade) in regards to rust prevention and lubricity. I might just go back to the Castol and quit screwing around though....
 
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