Cold saw blade recommendation

[SeymourDumore]

Guys, would anyone have any preferred brand or type of blade for a fully manual machine?

The machine is not enclosed, 25/50 RPM, uses a 250 x 2 x 32mm blade, coolant is a slow-flow water soluble, material to cut is 303SST - 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" dia.

The blade I have now is a plane-jane HSS, 130 tooth, and it is a ... mehh, has a tendency to load up and skip .
I don't know if there is a different definition for it, but I'd call it a "double-chip" tooth formation ( center and full width alternating).

The question is: What would be your recommendation for cutting the above material/size stuff in qty's of 100-200 at a clip?
I wouldn't want to go carbide as I know it would chip in short order, but cobalt perhaps?
The blades I have now are straight, without any relief ( which I am suspecting to be the cause of my frustration ), but are there any cobalt brazed tipped ones out there that do have a chip relief?
Would you go for a finer tooth blade? Again, the largest dia is 1/2".

Thank You

 

[triplechip]

Hi SeymourDumore,
Give me a call at my shop. I can help you get the correct blade for the material you want to cut.

Bill
quinnsaw.com

 

[Peter S]

The blades I have now are straight, without any relief .

I haven't seen a cold saw blade that isn't tapered. Normally you can see the step in blade thickness near the collar which holds the blade.

I would recommend asking a saw making/sharpening business about your application.

I am no expert on cutting stainless...but I would think your teeth pitch is too coarse. I am guessing you need to use the 25 rpm (66 SFM) speed and get a finer pitch on your teeth. Say 220 teeth, about 3.5mm pitch. 130 teeth is about 6mm pitch, better for say 20+mm solid.

I'm not sure if there are recommended coolants for stainless. Maybe check you have the correct mix. Don't cut without reliable coolant flow.

I had a look through the Napgladu pdf and they do have recommended tooth form for stainless and other stuff you can read up on, e.g. surface coatings.

Sounds like Bill will sort you out, but would be good to hear what you get and how it works (and if the above is incorrect!)

 

[usolutions]

May I hop on on this question train?

Hi SeymourDumore,
Give me a call at my shop. I can help you get the correct blade for the material you want to cut.

Bill
quinnsaw.com

What saw would you recommend for cold cutting 1045 stock, we have machine with 355 disc right now, tried evolution blade, did not handle 1045 too good.
We can adjust rpm as required. Lubrication not yet set up, but can be both mql and low volume flood coolant.

 

[projectnut]

Here's a link to a blade tooth calculator at the Cold Saw Blade Shop:

Cold Saw Blade Chart Calculator

Use our blade calculator to find out the proper tooth pitch for your cold saw blades. Choosing the proper tooth pitch is one of the most important factors in selecting the best blade for your shop.

coldsawshop.com

I believe we need a bit more information before anyone can recommend a specific blade.
The calculator asks for:
1. Diameter of Blade
2. The type of material to be cut
3. Shape of material to be cut
4. If tubing the wall thickness

With this information it comes up with a tooth count and profile. The interesting part is that it doesn't ask for the blade composition, and only goes down to 1/2" tube. It will be interesting to see what Bill comes up with, and how it compares to the online calculator.

I'm not certain of the accuracy of a comment on a previous thread that blades usually last between 800 and 1000 cuts. That doesn't seem like much in a production shop. At that rate it sounds like blades will need to be changed out every few days.

I don't do production work and haven't been using a cold saw all that long. At most I've only done a few hundred cuts on a variety of materials. It will be interesting to see how long the blades last before needing to be resharpened.

 

[TFRAME]

Run the blade on the low rpm setting (do not exceed 80 SFPM – 31 RPM).

Feed rate should be about 0.0015-0.002 inch per tooth. So at 25 rpm your travel rate should be about 0.112-0.0150 inches per second using the 180T blade.

Make sure coolant is getting to the cut zone before making the cut, you need to apply a steady controlled pressure to feed through the stock. Do not dwell or hesitate while in the cut.

Cutting your Ø0.375” 303 with this blade should take about 2.5-3.5 seconds.

Material should be securely clamped on both sides of the cutting zone and as close to the blade as practical.

Using water soluble coolant mix it at 7:1 ratio, coolant needs to be rich to help reduce side galling on the blade.

 

[SeymourDumore]

Blade is ordered, should be here Tuesday or Wednesday
It is the one tframe mentioned, 250mm 180T with the triple chip tooth form.

Thanks Guys!