Cold saw clamping arrangement

[M. Moore]

One more thing, check the blade direction as per the manufacturer, my machines cut away from the back fence. This is for two reasons, one, the offcut will be pushed away from the back fence and never jam, two, the blade will not pull itself into the workpiece and with auto downfeed that would be bad. I am not sure about a hand feed machine and it may be fine to use it as per your pic. I know the hand feed Eisele machines also run the blade "backwards" but it is actually the correct direction. The blade was installed wrongly on my large machine despite the LARGE arrow showing the correct blade direction.

 

[mjk]

I have the same saw and when I found mine it had been sitting in a field for months.
Took a lot of penetrating oil to get the saw to change from a straight position.
I had the base bead blasted and applied several a coats of epoxy.
Removed the coolant/"automotive fuel pump" and replaced with a submersible I keep at floor level with the original reservoir draining into the "sump", a cat litter bucket.

I've only used a single side clamp.
I have a few special jaws, v, round bore and the original "waffle face" and unless the blade is dull I can get very good results.
If cutting short pieces you must be very careful not to let the cutoff piece get jammed in the blade as it drops.
Without a right side clamp you will always get a little tang at the final cut edge.
As mentioned above , proper blade pitch and sharpness dictate cut quality.

 

[DDoug]

WHen in doubt, I go to california cold saw. They have a calculator for number of teeth per thickness. I bought all my blades on ebay for 40-75 dollars per blade. I think I have about 6, from 90 to 240 teeth. I find my 160x350 is mounted most of the time.

Doo they come on here and provide valuable advice to members for free ?
Problem solving et all ?

Triplechip does....