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Converting a PSU to Use for Electrolysis

Rick_B

Stainless
Joined
Sep 16, 2011
Location
Winston Salem, NC
Do you want to try electrolysis or anodising out of interest or to use it regularly? If the first, I can see the appeal in spending hours futzing around trying to get something to work that isn't supposed to do what you're trying to make it do. If the second, just spend $60 or 70 on a 30V10A powersupply from Amazon. I tried the cheap approach and wasted a bunch of time and effort. Bought a powersupply from Amazon 7 or 8 years ago for $70 and have used it literally 100s of times. It's even useful for other stuff, like testing DC electronics and LED lights.
Good question - I started out wanting to try electrolysis versus the more manual methods of rust removal when working with vintage machinery rebuilding. Now I am in stubborn mode :). I have read literally dozens of how to's on the web relating to converting a psu to a bench top power supply - simple steps 1,2,3 and done. I have no idea why this one is so difficult.

Rick
 

mjr6550

Aluminum
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Location
Lansdale, PA
Since these power supplies are thrown away on daily basis, perhaps you should try a different one. Maybe you will have better luck.
 

rons

Diamond
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
California, USA
It's a guess that the signal is active on a edge rather than a level.
Pulse: Tie at 5V and then connect to 0V. Do at your own risk.

I've seen uncommon things with computer power supplies. Like having to physically unplug power before it will ever power on again.
 
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jim rozen

Diamond
Joined
Feb 26, 2004
Location
peekskill, NY
My suspicion is that any computer power supply, even if it's providing power within its design envelope, won't really be adequate for any decent size piece of machinery. You really need a supply that can put out 20 or 30 amps. Does not need to be regulated, in fact better if it's not.
 

SAF

Stainless
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Location
MI USA
My two cents is, if you want to de rust machine sized parts and not have it take three lifetimes you will need a much larger power supply than something sized for a computer. The amount of surface area exposed in the tank on the rusty part and the anode element used in the tank, along with the strength of the alkaline tank mixture will determine the strength of the current needed. With a improperly sized setup you could spend a month trying to clean one rusty automotive steel wheel clean enough for painting that will hold paint without rusting with the road rash they receive in use.

My tank made from a large industrial chemical tote, about 300 gallons uses a 12V 100A battery charger that was intended for a piece of industrial equipment to charge its onboard batteries. With a large tank, plenty of anode plates hung around the inside, the proper strength of the conduction solution and plenty of low volt DC power you can de rust a set of wheels in a couple of days with a small amount of hand cleaning and repositioning the parts in the tank so that all faces of the parts hang facing the anode plates for a period of time.

With a couple of amps from a computer power supply I would doubt that you could clean a set of wheels for quality painting in several months.

More power in a properly set up tank and solution means less time and work and much better end results. Not to mention the size of the parts you can do in a single batch. But small scale will work if you have no reasonable time limits.
 

SomeoneSomewhere

Hot Rolled
Joined
Dec 24, 2019
20A is about the absolute minimum a desktop PSU will be rated for, and OP's is rated at about 30A. Higher-end models can definitely be 60A+.

Reducing output voltage rather than shutting off in the event of overcurrent would probably be good, but not really necessary if care is taken when loading, and probably an ammeter is used.
 








 
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