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crescent 12" jointer motor separation from cutter head

tomjelly

Stainless
Joined
Aug 26, 2007
Location
GA
Anyone ever have one of these apart? Rather than the cantilevered motor rotor like on an oliver this has a rear motor bearing. Normally not great engineering practice to have 3 bearings in a row like this. Anyway, I need to remove the rotor so I can tap a small bit of blade out the motor end of the cutter head before I restore this machine. Cutterhead side end bell and motor side bearing housing are one piece, I can't find a picture of the motor rotor but it must be hollow I think. Anyone take one of these apart?
 

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Per your second photo, looks like you have checked Vintage machines on OWWM.

As the paragraph states right after the photo "Motor is built on the shaft" or WTTE.
I don't think that small tail end bearing is highly influencing, all the real loads are on the 2 larger cutterhead bearings.


You have to take the motor off the shaft, starting at the far end bell.
Then the fan.if there is one, and housing.
Then remove the rotor. Be careful of the key if it is in a stopped groove, if the key sticks in the rotor, it can rise up the ramp of the stop where the keyway cutter ran out, and wedge the rotor, and start to expand it. You want the rotor sliding free over the shaft and keyway. (DAMHIKT. Something to do with replacing the bearings in my R.D Eaglesfield direct drive saw, but i'd rather not remember)
If you don't get crazy and work carefully, most rotors are more a snug sliding fit, not originally a press fit. Thump the end on a block of soft wood, rather than a puller, as a first attempt. Just keep track that the key stays behind.

My 16" Fay & Egan jointer is also set up that way.

smt
 
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tomjelly

Stainless
Joined
Aug 26, 2007
Location
GA
Yes, OWWM is where that picture came from. I'll try and get the motor off soon and post some pics, as I couldn't find any. 3 of 16 Jacking bolts were seized in the knife wedge plugs so I had to drill them to minor diameter of the 1/2-13 screws, then collapse them enough to slacken the knife pressure bar, but of course even with that the worst possible position section of knife won't come out. Machine came to me with a broken knife in that slot, probably from someone else trying to get it out..After the knife is out I'll need to remove the plugs I drilled with a slide hammer.as there will be no way to jack them out as the bolts have been drilled. Bought this (cheap) sight unseen, but if I saw it prior I probably would have left it....
 

tomjelly

Stainless
Joined
Aug 26, 2007
Location
GA
Well I was able to get the last plugs and knife out by sliding the cutterhead shaft slightly out of the motor, which gave me enough space to tap the knife out of the head. I screwed a bolt that I tigged to the slide hammer threaded into each plug and removed them. I was even able to remove the remains of the bolt threads from those plugs and save them. Just cleaned up the ways and needle scaled, bead blasted all the parts and painted the machine and it will be ready to go when the new set of knives arrive in a few days
 

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