Getting closer to finishing the rehab on my 2 clark lifts, one steer tire has come loose from the inner steel ring it was bonded to (the press on ring is still intact on the wheel) I've cleaned the inside of the tire and the rim exterior and ground some "tooth" on both, was going to bond with 3m 08609 automotive urethane windshield adhesive, but I see the stuff is $42 a tube: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MMM08609 Is there an industrial alternative product that does the same job without the "car insurance is paying for it" price premium? Could take 2 tubes to do this....
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cushion forklift steer tire detached from integral rim
- Thread starter tomjelly
- Start date
- Replies 13
- Views 479
Strostkovy
Titanium
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2017
I recall shoe glue working great for sticking tire pieces together, but I don't know how well it bonds to metal. I'd be concerned with any adhesive holding up if the tire is a loose fit on the ring.
How much is pair of new tires?
How much is pair of new tires?
bigais
Stainless
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2003
- Location
- Etters Pa USA
IMO, it's not worth rolling that truck over when that once hunk of badly bonded rubber decides to roll off again and gives you a few added inches of unneeded steering articulation as you take the ride of your life and perhaps a pedestrian!
Not only will this truck never exceed 1mph, it will never move more than 15 feet at a time. I'll also be welding an annular retainer ring around the inner and outer sidewall to retain the tire even if the adhesive fails. I'd just like it NOT to fail.
Strostkovy
Titanium
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2017
If that's truly all it will be doing, I'd consider just running in screws between the ring and tire on each side
Strostkovy
Titanium
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2017
Just slip the tires on the ring while it's on the forklift and then screw it
That little cushion tire probably can't be more than $100 new on ebay. Seems like a lot of wasted time trying to fix that junk one if you ask me. If it is still a tight fit why not just tack the rings on to hold it in place, and skip the adhesive all together?
I did the first tire & let it sit for about 4 days before bolting it back on and it seems to be holding fine, I did not weld on a steel retaining ring as I want to see if the sika p2g alone will work. I set the rim inside face down on cardboard, cut the tube tip and squeezed it flat in a vise so it would extrude a ribbon, smeared a thin layer of p2g at the top of the rim, started the tire on about an inch, then inserted and twisted a screwdriver every inch or so around the wheel tire interface perimeter and put a squeeze of it in at each spot on each side of the screwdriver tip, which made plenty of room to get the nozzle in ang gave full coverage all around. Then I tapped it down another inch and did the same and repeated until it was all the way on. Then I made sure I had squeeze out all around on inner and outer sidewall faces and cleaned up the sidewall with the putty knife. The uncured sealant also acted as a lube to make getting the tire slid on very easy with a rubber mallet. There was plenty left over from one tube, enough to fill any small cuts or chunks in the tire. The material is very close to the same hardness as the tire, and I don't think it's going anywhere, but we'll see. I've driven it around a bit and it hasn't moved at all, and the tire I haven't done is moving all over the place, so I took it off today, prepped the tire and wheel and will bond it tomorrow.
john.k
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2012
- Location
- Brisbane Qld Australia
I stuck the soles back on my safety boots with Sikaflex,so its certainly got a track record..........One time ,someone gave me carton of some super strong grey stuff ,he said it was too strong for the application ,and was ripping fibreglass boat hulls apart ........I used it as sealant on the front sheetmetal of my IH truck ,later I took out the screws ,and the sealer was holding the sheet metal so it wouldnt come apart.