14tony
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2004
- Location
- Arroyo Seco, New Mexico
Does anyone make an adapter plate that will reduce a D8 spindle to D6 ?
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D Series Spindle Adapter
- Thread starter 14tony
- Start date
- Replies 17
- Views 3,035
Forrest Addy
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2000
- Location
- Bremerton WA USA
No, but you can. You have a lathe right there. Find a hunk of plate and start making chips. The cam pins are available from MSC and similar catalog houses.
14tony
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2004
- Location
- Arroyo Seco, New Mexico
Well, no crap sherlock. If I had the time to do that and a few other things I wouldn't have asked the question.
ARFF79
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2003
- Location
- S.E. Pa., USA
THere is no need to be rude. Unless the D-8 mount is part of the chuck/faceplate casting, it can be removed and replaced. Measure the locator recess on the afore mentioned piece of tooling and buy a D-6 mounting blank that will fit it or a larger one and turn it to fit. More accurate this way. To take a D-8 and put it into a D-6 would place a lot of weight on the spindle thru overhang as it would be getting bigger as it goes away from the headstock. If this can not be done or would not fit into your time frame, buy the tooling that fits and sell or trade the one that doesn't
damonfg
Titanium
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2003
- Location
- Portland, ME, USA
I've got a reducer from A8 chuck to A6 spindle. Wish I could find more like it.
Probably a little thin for a D style though!
Probably a little thin for a D style though!
C
Cass
Guest
No, Crap Sherlock, but you can. You have a lathe right there. Find a hunk of plate and start making chips. The cam pins are available from MSC and similar catalog houses.
Forrest Addy
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2000
- Location
- Bremerton WA USA
If you have a lathe that accepts a D1-6 chuck you have sufficient power and capacity to make the adaptor from a hunk of 2" plate in about three hours - that's far less time than you'll spend trying to find a very scarse factory-made item.
Don't finish the chuck side until after you get it fitted and mounted on the spindle.
The D1 and A1 series spindle noses have a precise gage line at the intersetion of the taper and face. It's a matter of shop math to work out a pin size. When properly fitted there should be about 0.001 to 0.003" draw between the chuck and the spindle nose.
Don't finish the chuck side until after you get it fitted and mounted on the spindle.
The D1 and A1 series spindle noses have a precise gage line at the intersetion of the taper and face. It's a matter of shop math to work out a pin size. When properly fitted there should be about 0.001 to 0.003" draw between the chuck and the spindle nose.
Dave K
Diamond
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2004
- Location
- Waukesha, WI
Forrest,
Your a better man than I am. After a response like he gave you from your first answer, the last thing I would do is make another attempt to help him. What a way to thank you. Nice guy.
Your a better man than I am. After a response like he gave you from your first answer, the last thing I would do is make another attempt to help him. What a way to thank you. Nice guy.
Forrest Addy
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2000
- Location
- Bremerton WA USA
Honey and vinegar.
The guy was hoping for an easy answer and didn't get one so he shot at the messenger. I used to be a Gummint bureaucrat; I got hide like a rhinoceros.
And thanks
The guy was hoping for an easy answer and didn't get one so he shot at the messenger. I used to be a Gummint bureaucrat; I got hide like a rhinoceros.
And thanks
Forrest: This is only the 2nd time I've heard of a number for the "draw" between chuck and spindle nose. Where can I find that spec ( $$DIN Document )?
Every re-ground a camlock nose? Looks like the taper angle forces you to remove about 0.007" off the "flange" if you take 0.001" off the taper diameter. Sound about right?(I've calculated the exact number and filed it somewhere)
Den
Every re-ground a camlock nose? Looks like the taper angle forces you to remove about 0.007" off the "flange" if you take 0.001" off the taper diameter. Sound about right?(I've calculated the exact number and filed it somewhere)
Den
JRIowa
Diamond
- Joined
- May 27, 2003
- Location
- Marshalltown, Iowa, USA
Forrest Addy
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2000
- Location
- Bremerton WA USA
Den:
Let's see. The taper is 3" per ft. That means 0.004 off the gage line dia equals 0.001" off the face. The draw is purely nominal to ensure the taper is fully engaged before the face goes metal to metal. I don't mean to suggest my 0.001 to 0.003" draw figure is what the standard works out to. I looked up at the heavens for a for inspiration and determined to my satisfaction that the rough figure I quoted was sufficient.
There is a standard on lathe spindle nose configurations and a crippled version is at this link:
http://shopswarf.orcon.net.nz/chuckmt.html
[This message has been edited by Forrest Addy (edited 08-06-2004).]
Let's see. The taper is 3" per ft. That means 0.004 off the gage line dia equals 0.001" off the face. The draw is purely nominal to ensure the taper is fully engaged before the face goes metal to metal. I don't mean to suggest my 0.001 to 0.003" draw figure is what the standard works out to. I looked up at the heavens for a for inspiration and determined to my satisfaction that the rough figure I quoted was sufficient.
There is a standard on lathe spindle nose configurations and a crippled version is at this link:
http://shopswarf.orcon.net.nz/chuckmt.html
[This message has been edited by Forrest Addy (edited 08-06-2004).]
jkilroy
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2004
- Location
- Vicksburg, MS
Here is a link to another web page that has similar information to that posted by Mr. Addy. There is just a little more information on this page.
http://www.workholding.com/SPINDLESPECS.HTM
http://www.workholding.com/SPINDLESPECS.HTM
The only figure I've ever heard for proper draw before was around 0.002" which is in the middle of your "cosmic" numbers
There's supposed to be a standard ring gauge and standard taper gauge with defined clearances for the draw. These are probably priced in cosmic numbers also. I've read about several instances where Bison chucks did not fit correcly and wonder why. Were they (and other Asian imports) not using reference gauges or what?
The tolerances in the links look like a good starting point to verify your own spindle dimensions.
There's supposed to be a standard ring gauge and standard taper gauge with defined clearances for the draw. These are probably priced in cosmic numbers also. I've read about several instances where Bison chucks did not fit correcly and wonder why. Were they (and other Asian imports) not using reference gauges or what?
The tolerances in the links look like a good starting point to verify your own spindle dimensions.
ganderso
Plastic
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2003
- Location
- corpus christi, tx, usa
Member “dennh” mentions Asian import D series tapers being off. I recent received, and immediately returned for refund, a Travers Tool Company D1-6 chuck adapter that exhibited more than .100 eccentric slop in its fit to a Monarch lathe spindle when drawn-up tight. Buy American or make your own.
I have been away for a few weeks and just spent Sunday morning catching up on the August posts. It is sad to see someone be rude to Forrest or any other member. Forrest and the membership of this site have done, and continue to provide excellent communication. I have learned some extremely valuable things from the Practical Machinist membership. I simply believe it is one of the best web sites going today.
Thanks to all.
I have been away for a few weeks and just spent Sunday morning catching up on the August posts. It is sad to see someone be rude to Forrest or any other member. Forrest and the membership of this site have done, and continue to provide excellent communication. I have learned some extremely valuable things from the Practical Machinist membership. I simply believe it is one of the best web sites going today.
Thanks to all.
metlmunchr
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2004
- Location
- Asheville NC USA
For those among us who are too rich and too busy to be bothered by making adapters and such, Royal's catalog page of spindle adapter plates clearly says they'll gladly quote specials. Seeing as how they get about $700 for a standard A6 to A8 and its pretty simple, I'm confident they could bring in a D8 to D6 for less than a couple grand. I'm sure most everyone here has an endless backlog of jobs that generate well over a hundred bucks an hour and wouldn't wanna slow down long enough to waste time on an item like this. Everyone except me that is 
Seriously, thanks to Forrest for the draw-up clearance numbers. I'm going to try to make a dead length collet chuck for one of my lathes instead of spending $3000 for one, and I haven't previously seen or found this number. I was going on the assumption I'd need to have simultaneous contact and therefore about zero tolerance on the position of the taper. Knowing now that there's a positive clearance helps me out a lot.
The following is how I'm thinking of making the taper, and I'd appreciate any input as to what might work better and/or easier.......
-make a male dummy spindle nose (A-6 in this case) sized such that it fits an A-6 chuck back with the clearance Forrest mentioned. Then use this dummy as a gage to bring the tapered bore on the collet chuck body to the proper final depth without having to remove it from the chuck to check for fit. I'm hoping I can leave the body soft and only harden the nose piece and inner sliding sleeve that closes the collet. Any thoughts would be welcomed.
Cliff
Seriously, thanks to Forrest for the draw-up clearance numbers. I'm going to try to make a dead length collet chuck for one of my lathes instead of spending $3000 for one, and I haven't previously seen or found this number. I was going on the assumption I'd need to have simultaneous contact and therefore about zero tolerance on the position of the taper. Knowing now that there's a positive clearance helps me out a lot.
The following is how I'm thinking of making the taper, and I'd appreciate any input as to what might work better and/or easier.......
-make a male dummy spindle nose (A-6 in this case) sized such that it fits an A-6 chuck back with the clearance Forrest mentioned. Then use this dummy as a gage to bring the tapered bore on the collet chuck body to the proper final depth without having to remove it from the chuck to check for fit. I'm hoping I can leave the body soft and only harden the nose piece and inner sliding sleeve that closes the collet. Any thoughts would be welcomed.
Cliff
Forrest Addy
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2000
- Location
- Bremerton WA USA
metlmunchr
Using the nominal intersection diameter figures from the specs you can use measuring pins to accurately gage the machining in progress. Takes a little math.
Using the nominal intersection diameter figures from the specs you can use measuring pins to accurately gage the machining in progress. Takes a little math.
johnoder
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2004
- Location
- Houston, TX USA
Have ANSI "Spindle Noses" that I can copy if needed. Way more than you ever want to know about As, Ds and Ls, plus all the tools for mfg. them.
John
John
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