dealing with and cleaning absolutely filthy, oiled hot roll tube.

[dave powelson]

yup,
oiled, sure...
filthy however is another thing entirely

iv'e been through thousands of sticks of hot roll tube and never seen anything like this.

but ultimately i agree, setting up some steel sawhorses outside with a little pressure washer for future tube. something i have always wanted to set up anyway so no time like the present.

As I mentioned prior--consider using KleenKote or Redkote pre-primed tube. The cost differential ain't that much.

 

[metalmagpie]

I bet the black stuff is molybdenum.

 

[dcsipo]

Perhaps flame cleaning with a suitable torch setup. Have they invented laser cleaning yet?

Wonder how much it costs....



dee
;-D

 

[Mud]

I bet the black stuff is molybdenum.

Acts like it. But why would they put moly or graphite in oil to spray on raw material to prevent rust? I'd think it would be too expensive for that, unless it's a waste product of some sort.

 

[metalmagpie]

Acts like it. But why would they put moly or graphite in oil to spray on raw material to prevent rust? I'd think it would be too expensive for that, unless it's a waste product of some sort.

The oil isn't to prevent rust! It's a rolling mill lubricant. Well, maybe rust prevention is a side benefit.

When the oily tube is in a filthy area of course that sticky junk attracts the dirt.

I don't care if people want to complain about it. To me it's a fact of life so I try to just get over it.

metalmagpie

 

[tdmidget]

Wonder how much it costs....



dee
;-D

A really stupid question. Previous posts or a google search would tell you that the basic , entry level , laser rust remover is over 50 large. And it does nothing for oil.

 

[Sea Farmer]

I reckoned the graphite or moly was lube too, since most of the profiles discussed here are either rolled fairly severely (tubing, pipe) or cold.

It is a pretty effective rust preventer indoors.

 

[dcsipo]

A really stupid question. Previous posts or a google search would tell you that the basic , entry level , laser rust remover is over 50 large. And it does nothing for oil.

Yes it is expensive, and a 1kW laser will burn of paint or oil as well...just to quote one source (no affiliation just the first one in a long list).....Laser Cleaning

High-power short laser pulses remove oil and build-up by selective decoating. The original part surfaces are neither damaged nor melted. Our lasers allow a non-abrasive removal of oils, grease and rust.

Our laser recommendation: PowerLine Series, PowerLine Pico 50, DQ Serie, HighLight FL1000P

My post was just a response to the questionL "Have they invented laser cleaning?"


dee
;-D

 

[partsproduction]

I've learned over the years to leave it soaking in solvent overnight, or if it's really bad, over the weekend. Heated solvent would take less time.
I had a customer complain about new parts we'd made cheap for him, because he had trouble taking the anti rust coating off, I remembered that he had complained about rust once before.
I told him to drop them in a can of solvent over night and be glad he gets the parts so cheap. If we had to set up and break down for every 40 pc order the price would be twice as high. So we make 1/2 a years worth and coat them.

 

[partsproduction]

Oh and I just remembered, this won't work for your tubes though.

I got an ultra sonic cleaner off ebay for under $200 and run it 250 degrees F in ed's red. Get's crud out of deep crevasses like nothing else. Also acts as a supreme penetrating oil.

 

[surplusjohn]

I found that kerosene works well for getting the crap off but leaving it oily enough to avoid rust.

 

[Wild West]

I wipe the bulk off with rags and then go over it again with a clean rag soaked in acetone.