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deckel chain oil/gearbox oil

john16

Plastic
Joined
Nov 13, 2023
the fp1's oil chart specifies a chain oil, but the space it draws oil from also leads to the gearbox? what am i (or my mill) missing?

left 2 holes lead to the 2 chains, right goes straight into the top gearbox.
 

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I think the idea is that the little oil which may seep from the plain bearing which only has felt as seal goes back into the spindle gearbox.
Only if is there is way much oil it will also go into the holes to the chains, which seems to be a little higher. And if it does, it won't make any difference compared to "chain oil", both are supposed to be very light.
My ALG-100 "Iron curtain imitation" is rustic in that area, as it has nothing of the above.
 
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I would be using “ bicycle” chain oil on those chains on a regular schedule depending on use.
Chain oil that I am familiar with sprays on light to penetrate the pins and links, then thickens up to stay.
If you are using this type of chain lube, don’t think you need anything else.
I would be inclined to plug those chain lube feed holes. Don’t need to loose oil from the gearbox if the chain is already lubed. At the least stuff some cotton wicking into them to slow any flow.
Cheers Ross
 
I stand corrected, whatever oil may end there by its own comes from the Z screw lubrication, not the spindle bearing
Other than that I agree with Ross.
 
I stand corrected, whatever oil may end there by its own comes from the Z screw lubrication, not the spindle bearing
Other than that I agree with Ross.
Think it’s the same oil. Pretty sure that what is shown in the photo is the “Y” screw ( cross feed)
Gets splash oil from the spindle gearbox.
Cheers Ross
 
Correct on all points, same as on my ALG
I shall stop posting before brain is confirmed fully working.
 
I would be using “ bicycle” chain oil on those chains on a regular schedule depending on use.
Chain oil that I am familiar with sprays on light to penetrate the pins and links, then thickens up to stay.
If you are using this type of chain lube, don’t think you need anything else.
I would be inclined to plug those chain lube feed holes. Don’t need to loose oil from the gearbox if the chain is already lubed. At the least stuff some cotton wicking into them to slow any flow.
Cheers Ross

I guess I will be filling the with wick then!
the spray came to mind but there had to be a reason for this layout, guess not.

thanks for the help all! I'm currently getting the motor to work with my vfd (it's not playing nice with the standard momentary switches in my deckel) and then I only have to clean out and re grease the vertical milling head and touch up on the milling table and vice.

last deep clean it's getting this decade that's for sure😅
 
I guess I will be filling the with wick then!
the spray came to mind but there had to be a reason for this layout, guess not.

thanks for the help all! I'm currently getting the motor to work with my vfd (it's not playing nice with the standard momentary switches in my deckel)
Is it connected between mains and cabinet? If so that's not the correct way. There must be no switches or anything else between VFD and motor. So it should be connected to in the high speed wiring from the cabinet to the motor.
 
Is it connected between mains and cabinet? If so that's not the correct way. There must be no switches or anything else between VFD and motor. So it should be connected to in the high speed wiring from the cabinet to the motor.
the vfd to motor wired right thats not the problem, the switches in the deckel only give a connection as long as the button is pushed, or they get pushed to break contact.

So im looking into that, ill figure it out somehow, or buy new push buttons.
 
Just need a relay with a latching circuit
between the push button and the input power to the VFD.
Momentary contact at the machine pulls and latches to supply power, momentary ( open) breaks the latch, and cuts power to the VFD.
Cheers Ross
 
Just need a relay with a latching circuit
between the push button and the input power to the VFD.
Momentary contact at the machine pulls and latches to supply power, momentary ( open) breaks the latch, and cuts power to the VFD.
Cheers Ross
Thanks!
the rabbit hole goes deeper and deeper.....
 

Maybe this works if you have that function in your VFD.
 
Just need a relay with a latching circuit
between the push button and the input power to the VFD.
Momentary contact at the machine pulls and latches to supply power, momentary ( open) breaks the latch, and cuts power to the VFD.

Done this way the VFD is completely off and on as you press the buttons.
No additional parts are needed, the latching relay (contactor) is already in the cabined, just fit the VFD ad mentioned above.
But it could be that at startup the VFD at idle doesn't draw enough current to latch the contactor. Fitting latching relay would fix
that, but don't think it's ideal.
One would want to turn VFD on (but producing no power) as the main switch is turned on, to let it complete auto-diag and be ready to command the motor as desired.
Then the motor turned on and off by buttons, either the ones on the VFD, or remote one. If you want to use the buttons on the cabinet just look how they should be wired to the control block of the VFD, its function is described in the manual.
Many VFDs lets you to mover the original display control panel from the box to be fitted fitted wherever you want with an extension cable. All that is vary cheap, or at most reasonably priced nowadays. No relay should be needed.
 
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Done this way the VFD is completely off and on as you press the buttons.
No additional parts are needed, the latching relay (contactor) is already in the cabined, just fit the VFD ad mentioned above.
But it could be that at startup the VFD at idle doesn't draw enough current to latch the contactor. Fitting latching relay would fix
that, but don't think it's ideal.
One would want to turn VFD on (but producing no power) as the main switch is turned on, to let it complete auto-diag and be ready to command the motor as desired.
Then the motor turned on and off by buttons, either the ones on the VFD, or remote one. If you want to use the buttons on the cabinet just look how they should be wired to the control block of the VFD, its function is described in the manual.
Many VFDs lets you to mover the original display control panel from the box to be fitted fitted wherever you want with an extension cable. All that is vary cheap, or at most reasonably priced nowadays. No relay should be needed.
dont have the kabined, so im starting from scratch.

Maybe this works if you have that function in your VFD.
sadly this still leaves the potmeter somewhere, even if i could get my vfd onboard with this and i want to use the 3 button layout. and have the speed at the known 2 speeds

i settled an 1 on off switch, one 3-way connector for 50,25,0 hertz and one 2 way connector for fwd-rev.

the benefit would be the extra fwd rev setting within the original 3 button location.
i dont see the issue with start and stop being the same button, the electrical box gets another emergency stop
 
Most early FP ‘s don’t do reverse.
Feed mechanics are made to only operate when the spindle is running forward.
Cheers Ross
yup mine doesnt do that, its probably nice to have a few times a year if i'm at it anyway. even if its just for tapping.
 
Don’t have a year but believe that when Deckel went to the two motor FP’s ( separate feed motor) they also went to a reversible spindle.
Machines having full mechanical feeds that only work when the main motor is running generally don’t do spindle reverse.
Cheers Ross
 








 
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