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deckel fp1 table/leadscrew removal

john16

Plastic
Joined
Nov 13, 2023
hello all, 2nd post on this website, first it was about buying a deckel fp1, and the recommendation was: "buy from Peter from holland".

welp here we are.
so far so good, no chips yet because she is nasty, the only clean part seems to be the gearboxes, although im questioning what is on the bottom of all that oil. the rest is a lot of "grease" all over.

I'm currently at the table, but I've hit a roadblock the manual nor previous posts seem to awnser for me.

I got the leadscrew loose with a 3d printed key, but the leadscrew is not out.

it binds on the unthreaded part on the left hand, so that's a no go.

and on the right I can't get this damned nut off with force, oil, torch or cooling spray.
not sure what this nut is hiding from me, but I think I will not get it off without a grinder....


what would help is get the endcaps off, the 4 bolts are easy but there are 2 pins in each side, do I need to drill those out?
getting those caps off would be a workaround to the nut problem but I'm not man enough to hit them any harder with a hammer.

any tips?
explain it like I'm five this is as deep as I have been in a machine thus far....
 

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Need to remove the end casting.
Pretty sure those dowels are taper pins.
Once you get it to move it will come away relatively easily..
A dead blow hammer alternating blows at the top and bottom of the end casting will help.
Pull the slide out to get more clearance to work. try to hit it toward the inside where the dowels are.
A piece of wood cut at an angle would give an extension to allow better access for the hammer blows....

You could carefully drill the center of the pin and tap it ,then use a bolt in the thread to extract the pins using a slide hammer.....or sleeve that has clearance for the pin with nut and washer to pull out the pins...
Cheers Ross
 
Need to remove the end casting.
Pretty sure those dowels are taper pins.
Once you get it to move it will come away relatively easily..
A dead blow hammer alternating blows at the top and bottom of the end casting will help.
Pull the slide out to get more clearance to work. try to hit it toward the inside where the dowels are.
A piece of wood cut at an angle would give an extension to allow better access for the hammer blows....

You could carefully drill the center of the pin and tap it ,then use a bolt in the thread to extract the pins using a slide hammer.....or sleeve that has clearance for the pin with nut and washer to pull out the pins...
Cheers Ross

thanks a lot! I will give it a go!
 
If I may, isn't the 'far from operator' end of the X screw smaller in diameter than the threaded part?
I would assume it is (backed also by the fact that the operator's side isn't!).

So, you should be able to just unscrew the leadscrew towards the operator side.

If I am correct and this is not possible, then there could be some damage at the far side. Threads distorted or even the key way having some issues.

I don't think removing the end casting would help, you will still need to remove the screw from the nut. Unless you plan on hitting the 'far from operator' end of the screw for it to push the nut out, which is not a great idea...:)

BR,
Thanos
 
Hello John
It's quite a simple procedure. As previously stated only the operator side end cap has to comes off and the lead screw is unscrewed and removed from this side. The end cap is located by parallel pins top and bottom which on my machine were a very tight fit, so gentle tapping with a dead blow hammer top and bottom repeatedly is the only way, be careful remember they are cast iron.

The lead screw retaining collar on the opposite side, shown as 3 on the enclosed is held by a taper pin.

Enclosed is the procedure from the manual which covers all you need to know.

Regards Adrian.
 

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Thanks Adrian!
yea there is the problem, ring nut (7) is not moving.
I just got the cast iron endcap off, not sure how to get it apart any further then this. I can't unscrew the leadscrew nut from the leadscrew but I can clean, oil and give the bearings some new grease like this which is good enough for now.

my best guess is there is another pin hidden somewhere between the ring nut (7) and the start of the leadscrew thread?
it being one piece would make it impossible to get the leadscrew nut on...

on to my next adventure, cleaning the powerfeed's guts a bit, sure hope it's better then the solidified oil I found under the table😅

and where did you get that English manual?
I'm only getting German or French.
 
If I may, isn't the 'far from operator' end of the X screw smaller in diameter than the threaded part?
I would assume it is (backed also by the fact that the operator's side isn't!).

So, you should be able to just unscrew the leadscrew towards the operator side.

If I am correct and this is not possible, then there could be some damage at the far side. Threads distorted or even the key way having some issues.

I don't think removing the end casting would help, you will still need to remove the screw from the nut. Unless you plan on hitting the 'far from operator' end of the screw for it to push the nut out, which is not a great idea...:)

BR,
Thanos
hey thanks for the reply!

getting the casting off was my ticket to removing the table.

with the ring nut stuck I will never get the leadscrew nut off, but I got it (trapped by the cast-iron cap) off the machine for cleaning, which also allowed the table to be taken off.
 
Ring nut 7 screws on and has two flats for a spanner, right hand thread and no other locking devices.
It holds the dials in position and gives a shoulder for the hand wheel nut to work against.

To be honest it would have been easier to remove all the dial assembly items first because now you have no easy way of stopping the lead screw from rotating whilst trying to undo this nut, which sound like it's been over tightened. I can see you have removed the threaded retaining ring for the lead screw nut 5 in your second photo so the whole assembly shown including the nut 5 should be able to be removed from the machine.

Holding the lead screw with suitable protection in a vice the troublesome nut 7.should be able to be unscrewed. I can't remember any problems removing nut 5 from the lead screw shaft, but then it was about 15 years ago I refurbished my machine. With all the dials, thrust bearings and end plate off nut 5 should just come off.
I do remember my lead screw nut was totally worn out, however the lead screw shaft was in very good condition. I remade a new nut which has a complicated shape with keways because they were very expensive from Singer.

If you send me a private message with your email address I can send you the manuals I have which are invaluable when stripping down and repairing.

Regards Adrian.
 
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hey thanks for the reply!

getting the casting off was my ticket to removing the table.

with the ring nut stuck I will never get the leadscrew nut off, but I got it (trapped by the cast-iron cap) off the machine for cleaning, which also allowed the table to be taken off.
hey there

if you can share some pictures for the assembly I would be grateful. I still can't see where the initial problem was.

If the screw was stuck in the nut, I would assume one could pull the table out by freeing leadscrew from both end-castings and then removing either side end-casting to be able to slide the table off.

If screw can be removed from the nut, removing the far-from-operator end casting and just unscrewing the screw wouldn't pull the table all the way out towards the operator?

Thanks in advance

BR,
Thanos
 
hey there

if you can share some pictures for the assembly I would be grateful. I still can't see where the initial problem was.

If the screw was stuck in the nut, I would assume one could pull the table out by freeing leadscrew from both end-castings and then removing either side end-casting to be able to slide the table off.

If screw can be removed from the nut, removing the far-from-operator end casting and just unscrewing the screw wouldn't pull the table all the way out towards the operator?

Thanks in advance

BR,
Thanos
sure here are the pictures of where im currently at. im just doing a breakdown for inspection and a lot of cleaning so im good as far as this part goes.

i have nothing to gain by winning from this nut with my current goals, in the future if the need is there i'm killing this nut with a angle grinder.

i can move the plastic locking ring for the dail freely so the nut is not tight on anything. i'm assuming the thread that my stuck nut is on, is the same on the plastic ring is running on?

im pretty sure i can see a ridge of the thread so it must be rotten stuck under there in some awful way, i would have overpowered it some way if it was just a little stuck, its probably nog glue because i would have burned that off....
 

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The end of the shaft does not look right, the hole and it's surrounding area has clearly been got at, with file marks down the shaft and the hole looks larger than it should be. Maybe it's had a knock, got bent and has been repaired badly. As previously mentioned the retaining nut 7 should simply unscrew.
Regards Adrian
 

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Having just gone thru this (though my nut came off), you are right to think there is no benefit to remove the nut if your lead screw threads and or 51106 thrust bearings are not going to be replaced. Just make sure you clean the bearings & 4 races well and relube as you reassemble.

By the way for future reader clarification, if the nut #5 came off, you can un-threaded and remove the lead screw alone on the non operator side.
In order to remove the nut & screw on the operator side, the threaded nut capture ring #4 has to be un-threaded first and then the nut and screw will simply slide out on the operator side. This is likely the common scenario since one might be replacing or cleaning the nut and or screw and both should be accessed together for practical reasons.
 








 
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