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DoALL Lathe won't start/wiring diagram troubleshooting

dimplez

Plastic
Joined
Jul 28, 2010
Location
USA, Florida
Hi everyone,

I recently purchased a 17" DoALL lathe that has been sitting for years from the looks of it. The company that sold it never got to run it(so they said), it had an Out of Service tag reads 'NO FUSES', so obviously I didn't get to test it before purchasing. The machine is wired for 480V, so I rewired the main motor for 230V and also switched the jumpers wires on the main transformer T1 to 240V input. I don't know if there is anything else in the electrical panel that needs to be "switched over" for 230V input rather than 480V. I am aware that I may have to swap out some of the wires that supply the motor, with a heavier gage since the current will be doubled. The plate on the motor says 10HP but the amps listed is only 24A for 230V which doesn't add up to 10HP but rather 7.5HP, am I wrong here?
The machine won't turn on under power, all I hear is a click from the brake solenoid being energized. The main motor is switched on from the control lever on the apron, it has 5 positions, starting from the top: FORWARD, OFF, JOG(when used with the JOG push button on the front panel), OFF and REVERSE. I can start the motor both forward in reverse by manually pushing in the tab on the two contactors M1F and M1R, and upon releasing the tab I can hear the brake solenoid reengaging and stopping the motor within 1 second or so. The control relay CR1 is not being energized for some reason but if I push in the tab, the motor can be started from the apron lever. With the power off, I also supplied 110V to the coil of CR1 to see if it energizes and it does so I assume it's not faulty.
I don't know what else to do or check for, I need some help. I don't know if this is an issue or not but the rectifier bridge only puts out 20V DC, while the input is 24V AC.
There is an emergency stop push button on the front panel which I suppose acts like an On/Off switch. When pulled, is that button supposed to energize the coil on the control relay? I have attached pictures of the electrical panel and the wiring diagram and the control relay.
Any input is greatly appreciated
Thanks

P.S. The fuses are missing and someone used jumper wires to bypass them.
The coolant pump is missing(see picture of panel box at tailstock end)
The JOG button appears detached from the socket with some mechanical parts missing but wires attached to the switch(see picture)

EDIT:
Thanks to a couple of users who suggested that there may be an open switch somewhere, it was the gear box acces door switch that wouldn't fully close.
I have fixed that issue but the main motor still won't turn on. I will explain down in the comments...
 

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You have some switch or safety holding it down. Get your meter and start at the control transformer and start tracing the power and check voltage on both sides of switches or safety's buttons. On a side note you will have to change out the heaters for the motor starter to ones rated for 240v, sometimes there are heater strips and other times there is a manual adjustment for the new amperage but this should not keep it from starting.
 
Doall13' was. a M300 made by Harrison. Yours looks similar.
Some doall were made by Romi in Brazil.
Does the linked Romi 1780 look correct? Also sold as bridgeport so look up all three for schematics.
Bill D.

 
Last edited:
Doall13' was. a M300 made by Harrison. Yours looks similar
Bill D
I know ROMI supplied both DoALL and Bridgeport with almost identical lathes, this one is pretty much the spitting image of a Bridgeport 16-8 lathe, most parts even have the same part#. Now, if only I could get it to turn on 🙂...
 
Is there a safety switch that must have the electrical cover closed to engage the power? Probably in series with the stop switch
Bill D
The electrical panel doesn't have one of those, only the door/panel for accessing the V belts and the change gears has one (LS1 on the diagram). The door was always closed when I tried to run the machine.
 
Doall13' was. a M300 made by Harrison. Yours looks similar.
Some doall were made by Romi in Brazil.
Does the linked Romi 1780 look correct? Also sold as bridgeport so look up all three for schematics.
Bill D.

That's exactly the lathe I have. DoALL doesn't deal with lathes anymore, nor do they have any parts or manuals for them. I have all the schematics just not that good at reading a wiring diagram.
 
Is there a safety switch that must have the electrical cover closed to engage the power? Probably in series with the stop switch
Bill D
You were right, it was the dang switch! The door was closed but not enough for the switch to close, I had to adjust it.
 
I have made some progress:
  • Machine connected to power, I flip the disconnect switch in the back and I can hear the brake solenoid being energized.
  • I pull the emergency stop button on the front panel and the CR1(control relay) gets energized.
  • Apron lever in position 2&4(OFF) turns off the brake(spindle is loose) with CR1 still energized.
  • Apron lever in positions 1, 3, 5 (Forward/Jog/Reverse) the brake turns ON and CR1 turns OFF, motor won't start.
Does it make sense for the brake to come ON when you shift the lever to Forward??
 
If there are no employees or WHS sniffing about,then normally the door and cover switches are simply bridged in the controll box.
No employees, just my homeshop. The door switch works fine but since I removed a front frame cover, the latch side lost some rigidity and won't fully close the door.
 
You wiring diagram is the key or logic on how the machine works. You are almost there. I suggest you check all of the switches/contacts that need to be on when fwd/rev lever is in fwd. Control lines are numbered on the left side 1 through 10. On the right side under master relay are numbers to show which lines have master relay contacts and if they are normally open or closed. Normally closed have a line under the number. From what you say everything works until around line 9 and 10 which are motor forward (10) and reverse(9). The problem will be somewhere on the line. Clip black voltage probe anywhere on right side(neutral) and use red probe to check voltage along line. You can check voltage from left to right on that line until you find where it is interrupted to get to motor forward contactor coil. The missing jog contacts lines 1,9,and 11 will prevent motor from running. You only have two contactors, fwd and reverse. You can forget about the coolant pump contactor for now. Before you get to this point, go from top to bottom of the diagram and make sure all wires are landed where they should be and connections are tight. This includes terminal block. Once you get a feel the logic of it you will be able to easily trace wires in the panel.
 
Do you have power on the input side of the motor contactor? Is your coil on the contactor the correct voltage rating? Basic stuff 1st.
I do have have power at the input of both contactors, when I press the tab manually the motor starts in forward and reverse. Coil on contactor says 110V, main transformer puts out 120V.
 








 
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