Does a micrometer need to be lubed?

[Euclidean]

I was told that a micrometer didn't need to be lubricated because oil that is too thick can cause it to tighten up. If that's true, how do prevent the screw from wearing out?

 

[DMF_TomB]

mic lube

I was told that a micrometer didn't need to be lubricated because oil that is too thick can cause it to tighten up. If that's true, how do prevent the screw from wearing out?

.
even a relatively thin oil will make a mic turn extremely hard cause oil has thickness
.
starrett M1 spray oil is relatively thin and I believe it has mineral spirits mixed in so
it tends to dry leaving very very little residue (very thin coating)
.
if a mic turns hard I use electrical contact spray cleaner its a solvent that leaves no residue.
spray on till dripping and work the mic back and forth letting dirt and residue drip off.
.
it also works on drill chucks and lathe chucks, the dripping spray cleaner dissolves grease oil
dirt etc letting it drip off as you work the screws

 

[Conrad Hoffman]

Absurd. I've never seen a mic that wasn't lubed right from the factory. Most have steel screws, or at least used to, so some oil is needed for protection as well. Certainly you want a very light oil, but you do want oil in a conventional micrometer. There may be other requirements for high resolution digitals, but no knowledge there.

 

[kustomizer]

I give them a quick rinse in diesel now and again, they seem to like it. I don't have any digital ones, they likely wouldn't care for it.

 

[winger]

I've been using 3in1 oil for almost 30 years at work. Sewing machine oil also works.

Dave

 

[DMF_TomB]

as a apprentice over 40 years ago i used take my mic apart into separate pieces and reassemble dozens of times a day.
i probably dissembled my mic about 1000 to 2000 times before I got bored doing it. most mics have a split nut that can
be adjusted looser for oil clearance but if oil gone screw can be too loose in nut (backlash)
.
when mic screw lubed with thin air tool oil the screw turns very very hard, harder than clutch can turn. cleaned oil off screw
and its back to normal. basically wiped as much oil off screw as i could with a rag. you can mix oil and mineral spirits
so when minerals spirits dry it leaves a very thin residue. or some use spindle oil (coolant) its a oil thats
water thin or almost as thin as minerals spirits. Starrett M1 spray oil is I believe oil mixed with minerals spirits.
if sprayed in ring gages it leaves little residue after it dries, sure theirs some but cannot see it or usually
feel it
......I have seen hundreds of mics over the years turning so hard overloading clutch, electrical contact cleaner
no residue type, spray on work it back and forth and mic back to normal with normal friction clutch
action. most shops I have worked at over the years carry it in the tool crib or can get it. its in most industrial
supply catalogs.
.
dampening grease Nye makes a kit of varying thickness is used on optical lenses so when lens points down lens
doesnt easy slide by gravity also gives a silky smooth sliding feel as apposed to feeling like parts rattling loose
in other parts. dampening grease can dry out over many years so what used to move easy becomes hard to turn.
.
when a drill press chuck is hard to turn, electrical contact cleaner will clean the dried grease and other stuff
out of it, spray and work it back and forth so it drip out off it. its not made (clearance wise) for thick oil
or thick grease. many precision parts are like that

 

[Euclidean]

as a apprentice over 40 years ago i used take my mic apart into separate pieces and reassemble dozens of times a day.
i probably dissembled my mic about 1000 to 2000 times before I got bored doing it. most mics have a split nut that can
be adjusted looser for oil clearance but if oil gone screw can be too loose in nut (backlash)
.
when mic screw lubed with thin air tool oil the screw turns very very hard, harder than clutch can turn. cleaned oil off screw
and its back to normal. basically wiped as much oil off screw as i could with a rag. you can mix oil and mineral spirits
so when minerals spirits dry it leaves a very thin residue. or some use spindle oil (coolant) its a oil thats
water thin or almost as thin as minerals spirits. Starrett M1 spray oil is I believe oil mixed with minerals spirits.
if sprayed in ring gages it leaves little residue after it dries, sure theirs some but cannot see it or usually
feel it
......I have seen hundreds of mics over the years turning so hard overloading clutch, electrical contact cleaner
no residue type, spray on work it back and forth and mic back to normal with normal friction clutch
action. most shops I have worked at over the years carry it in the tool crib or can get it. its in most industrial
supply catalogs.
.
dampening grease Nye makes a kit of varying thickness is used on optical lenses so when lens points down lens
doesnt easy slide by gravity also gives a silky smooth sliding feel as apposed to feeling like parts rattling loose
in other parts. dampening grease can dry out over many years so what used to move easy becomes hard to turn.
.
when a drill press chuck is hard to turn, electrical contact cleaner will clean the dried grease and other stuff
out of it, spray and work it back and forth so it drip out off it. its not made (clearance wise) for thick oil
or thick grease. many precision parts are like that

Could you use a very thin silicone lubricant?

 

[michiganbuck]

Taking an old micrometer apart can be a challenge and perhaps ruin the tool.

Good to put a low-pressure draw/pull apart on the thimble and watch the number where it comes apart.. then at re-assembly use .010 before that number to start going in of the thread.

I think just to tip up a micrometer and squirt in some spindle or light lube oil is the best method.

Hardware store 3 in 1 is about 20 weight so is very handy for lubricating tools.

Setting zero, don't set at the closing of the micrometer, but set with a JoBlock.

Old micrometers have slammed shut so many times the thread is most wore at the one place.

And nobody measures zero-size material so that place is not a good reference.
Yes, one can zero-set a micrometer with it having wear..and then be .0002 to .001/.002 (or what) off at every place along with the micrometer's range.

 

[eKretz]

If you are running your mic dry you will wear it out if it's used much. A drop or two of light oil on the threads is plenty. I like the Starrett tool oil or 3 in 1 oil from the BLUE can. If your mic is overly tight from a few drops of light oil you are running the split nut way too tight.

 

[greif1]

Seems absurd to me that no lubrication would cause less friction that a lubricated screw.
Mitutoyo recommends use of micrometer oil here:
https://www.mitutoyo.com/Images/E12024_Check_Points_for_Measuring_Instruments.pdf

 

[jbacc]

I have been using Microil Instrument oil which is from the same company that makes Kroil penetrating oil. It's a very light mineral oil that does not gum up and works very well. I too have never seen a micrometer that was not lubed.

 

[CITIZEN F16]

I give mine a squirt of CRC every once in a while, it is similar to WD-40.

 

[Yan Wo]

I use trumpet valve oil.

 

[CarbideBob]

For those who lube.
On the threads which means taking it apart or just on where it moves in and out of the body?

 

[TGTool]

For those who lube.
On the threads which means taking it apart or just on where it moves in and out of the body?

Definitely on the threads. Where it moves in and out can't have anything close to similar metal contact wear, and if it does wear it has minimal impact on the micrometer reading.

On my regular mics that's trivial, and on the mechanical digitals I just have to keep track of turns so the numbers synchronize with the barrel.

For more options I have some instrument oil from DeoxIT that says it's for instruments, gears, gauges, etc., is100% silicone oil and meets FSN-VV-D-1078B for whatever that's worth.

 

[greif1]

If you are looking for oil;
Starrett Tool and Instrument oil. Cat # 1620, EDP 53216

 

[eKretz]

Couple drops on the threads for me. I oil the spindle too, but wipe most of that off with a dry Kimwipe after. More of a cleaning but it leaves a very slight oil film behind. I clean thoroughly, reapply oil and adjust split nut if necessary (almost never is) about once a year or so. Of course, some should never take apart micrometers, indicators, etc. Use your own judgment. My stepfather for instance, should not even be allowed to touch micrometers...

 

[Yan Wo]

... My stepfather for instance, should not even be allowed to touch micrometers...

"Hey, did you know these things make great little C clamps? You can really torque 'em down."

 

[eKretz]

"Hey, did you know these things make great little C clamps? You can really torque 'em down."

I'd honestly be more surprised if he didn't figure out a way to use it for a hammer... The man has very little finesse, very much brute force. Heart of gold though.

 

[Yan Wo]

I'd honestly be more surprised if he didn't figure out a way to use it for a hammer... The man has very little finesse, very much brute force. Heart of gold though.

Do you know my brother-in-law? Kindred spirit, I think.