Drill sharpener ownership, general questions.

[EPAIII]

Doesn't that depend on the factory?

I have bought drill bits where I could easily see a rounded over cutting edge with my naked eye (I am far sighted). And I have bought ones where a 100X microscope does not show anything but a sharp edge.

You write your post as though you think that a new drill as it comes from the factory is sharp enough. That is your first problem.

 

[john.k]

A wear factor few consider is margin wear .....a new drill is tapered slightly to cut without drag, margin wear cant be corrected by sharpening,and so new drills are a better value than might be apparent for high production applications.

 

[Tyrone Shoelaces]

I also have a Herbert Hunt....unfortunately it needs about 100 special bushings to work to 3"......and most of mine seem to be lost in the last 2 years.....I suspect I got $400 a ton for them............I d have an Oliver if I wanted a top machine........Incidentally the Black Diamond grinder was made here during WW2 by Warren and Brown.......my brother has one for from 030 up to 1/2" ....its has a lot of holders /guides /collets.......easliy separated from the machine.......fortunately his machine has them all.

That’s right, you need a bushing for basically every drill size up to 4” . Our drill came with a large filing cabinet sized cabinet full of them. The one or two that were missing, this grinder was pre-owned, we made ourselves.

Regards Tyrone.

 

[Mark Rand]

I recently picked up a Swiss Meteor ME14 drill grinder at an auction. It'll do 1/8" to 2" with two different sized V guides. Sharpening on one wheel and point thinning on the other, Although it was a filthy mess, it had the instructions in the cabinet, along with all the standard accessories. It's even got the little cyclone that fits on the dust extraction port. I've fitted new wheels since this was taken

 

[eKretz]

A wear factor few consider is margin wear .....a new drill is tapered slightly to cut without drag, margin wear cant be corrected by sharpening,and so new drills are a better value than might be apparent for high production applications.

This is very important especially when drilling things like aluminum or manganese bronze. A drill with worn lands/margins will bind in the hole and squeal like a banshee. Also makes a mound of displaced metal around the hole that is a right bugger to take back down to flat. This type of wear is how drills snap off in holes.

 

[eKretz]

Doesn't that depend on the factory?

I have bought drill bits where I could easily see a rounded over cutting edge with my naked eye (I am far sighted). And I have bought ones where a 100X microscope does not show anything but a sharp edge.

In a word, yes. Some do a great job and some don't. I'm sure that this can even come down to the level of a specific grinder operator at any given factory.

 

[michiganbuck]

Bushings needing machines, often you can make your own using the drill that needs to be sharpened, sometimes you may need to emery on a rod to open the hole a little.