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ELLIOTT OMNISPEED Lathe

I plugged the scales in, turned the DRO on and I was ready to go!
The Sino X-Axis scale worked perfectly, the eBay purchased one did not :(


A big fat Zero was the only thing displayed on the DRO for the Z-axis.
I swapped the cables around to see if it would make any difference, but it did not.

I was panicking thinking I might have a 'dead on arrival' scale from eBay and was NOT looking forward to removing it again.

Luckily my milling machine is close to the lathe and I could plug the Z-axis scale into the milling machine's DRO to test it.
It worked!

So, I did not have a broken scale but it did not want to work on the Sino DRO.
This is despite the Sino DRO stating it will work with any Chinese Linear Scale.

SINO DRO.png

I found this page in the Sino DRO's manual

IMG_20240124_185144.jpg

Time to open up the two connectors of the scales.
The white connector is the Sino scale and the blue connector is the ToAuto eBay scale.

IMG_20240124_201253 (1).jpg

They are not the same!

I did some googling and came across an article on the TouchDro website.

Scale pin layout.png

Great. Wish I knew that the pinout on DRO scales is not standardised beforehand.

The Sino scale's pinout was displayed on the scale's listing and also corresponded to the pinout page in the Sino DRO's manual.

Sino Scales.png

The eBay scale's pinout was not.

I googled for a bit and luckily found the pin layout for the ToAuto scales.
From the pinout I could work out which colour wire was for what function.
Yes, the wire colours are not standardized either :doh:

IMG_20240125_082254.jpg

I desoldered the cables on the ToAuto scales and soldered them back in the positions the Sino DRO requires and all was well!

IMG_20240125_155711 (1).jpg

That is how things stand with the Elliott lathe.

Overall I am very happy with how it all turned out and the lathe's performance.

Thank you for the comments and thank you for looking at my thread!

Finally, as a reminder, before:

IMG_20221016_165902.jpg

After:
IMG_20240125_174052.jpg

IMG_20240125_170307.jpg
 
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Just be careful with four jaw chuck work with the lathe not being anchored to the ground.
When I was an apprentice we went on day release to college one day a week. One of the job we had to do was boring a hole in an out of balance piece in the four jaw chuck. This was on “ Harrison” lathes roughly the same size as the “ Elliot “. They were sat on rubber “ Vibra- mounts “ .

One lunch time one of the dickheads in the class put the lathe into top gear and switched it on -“ just to see what would happen ! “ It started off ok but soon started to wobble dangerously . That was when I threw the isolator and stopped the lathe.

Regards Tyrone
 

Smouser--excellent documentation of lathe refreshment--​

question --do you know thread pitch or module of spur gear rack mounted under forward prismatic way which mates with 10 tooth pinion driving carriage?
lathe builders almost never disclose this critical information

thx
 

Smouser--excellent documentation of lathe refreshment--​

question --do you know thread pitch or module of spur gear rack mounted under forward prismatic way which mates with 10 tooth pinion driving carriage?
lathe builders almost never disclose this critical information

thx
Thank you @j-holland.

Never mind the lathe manufacturer not giving that information, I am not even sure I even know what you are talking about 😂

I am just a hobby user and still learning every day. A year and half ago I have never used a lathe or owned one.

If I understand correctly, you are talking about the gear that meshes with the 'bed rack'?

Why would it be important to know this information apart from if you needed to repair/make new gear and rack?
 
Thank you @j-holland.

Never mind the lathe manufacturer not giving that information, I am not even sure I even know what you are talking about 😂

I am just a hobby user and still learning every day. A year and half ago I have never used a lathe or owned one.

If I understand correctly, you are talking about the gear that meshes with the 'bed rack'?

Why would it be important to know this information apart from if you needed to repair/make new gear and rack?
I have a 13 inch Taiwan machine with damaged rack and pinion--inch/metric
common convention of lathe makers is installation of imperial lead screw--in case of your Elliott--1-3/8 diameter 4 tpi but use of metric rack and pinion is very common

builders happily share leadscrew data but rarely disclose specifics of rack and pinion--on the used market sellers are mostly clueless regarding module determination/calculation--I have an increasing collection of used racks wrongly dimensioned --and I am still searching
 
I have a 13 inch Taiwan machine with damaged rack and pinion--inch/metric
common convention of lathe makers is installation of imperial lead screw--in case of your Elliott--1-3/8 diameter 4 tpi but use of metric rack and pinion is very common

builders happily share leadscrew data but rarely disclose specifics of rack and pinion--on the used market sellers are mostly clueless regarding module determination/calculation--I have an increasing collection of used racks wrongly dimensioned --and I am still searching
I see.

Not long after I got my Warco 350 (also a Taiwanese lathe) a gear got damaged.

When I turned the carriage handwheel it was notchy at certain parts.

The rack
IMG_20230103_180357.jpg

I started taking the apron apart, luckily it is a fairly simple job.

IMG_20230103_214016.jpg

Found the broken off tooth.

IMG_20230103_181252.jpg

IMG_20230103_214641.jpg

IMG_20230103_215334.jpg

IMG_20230103_222916.jpg

The gear has got 13 teeth and the OD was about 22.372mm.

I calculated the gear to be 1.5 MOD.

A friend on another forum then made me a replacement.

The humble beginnings of the gear.

1673020052620.jpg

Gear rough cut on a mill with an 'incorrect' gear cutter because the correct one was not available.

1673020382227.jpg

It then went back onto the lathe to make a groove for the shaper's chips to go and some bushing had to be made to hold the gear in the shaper.

1673020010200.jpg

Here is the result after it has been in the shaper to correct the tooth profile.

1673020010177.jpg
 
wow--unexpected and helpful info
Tony G lumps dozens of taiwan lathes as generic---mine is branded Turnmaster
13x40 which I acquired strictly for metric threading a school machine badly abused--161 teeth on 40 inch rack--every one damaged beyond repair
these machines seem to have hardened pinions but racks are mild steel unhardened --and by my measurements module 2 on 13 inch swing units--

btw--my daily use lathe is Hardinge hxl--manufactured in Exeter-- Devon-quality encompassing highest global standards
 
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Smouser
Thanks for taking the time to document your lathe restoration so well.
Even though I have no plans to repair one of that type you have provided a great reference for anyone who happens to restore another machine of the same make and model or even to give an idea what's involved for someone contemplating a rebuild of another lathe .
Jim
 
Smouser
Thanks for taking the time to document your lathe restoration so well.
Even though I have no plans to repair one of that type you have provided a great reference for anyone who happens to restore another machine of the same make and model or even to give an idea what's involved for someone contemplating a rebuild of another lathe .
Jim
@Jim Christie thank you for the comment.

It is a bit time consuming taking the photos and composing the posts but it is also a nice way to look back at something you have done. Without the photos and writeups I would forget a lot of the detail in a few year's time.

I enjoy reading refurbishment threads other people have done on other machines and thought I would 'pay back' their effort by posting this thread.
 
@Jim Christie thank you for the comment.

It is a bit time consuming taking the photos and composing the posts but it is also a nice way to look back at something you have done. Without the photos and writeups I would forget a lot of the detail in a few year's time.

I enjoy reading refurbishment threads other people have done on other machines and thought I would 'pay back' their effort by posting this thread.
I would also class that work as a complete “ re-furbishment “ albeit an extremely good example of what work should be done. As detailed as most commercial companies would have done, better than some I’ve seen. A full “ re-build “ would entail work on the alignments, ways, headstock strip down, main spindle out, feed box and apron strip down etc etc. More or less taking the machine back to as near to “ factory “ condition as is possible.
” Re-condition “ was somewhere in between “ Re-furbish “ and “ Re-build “ . They each had different criteria depending on who was doing the work. Some companies were excellent, some not so good.

Regards Tyrone
 
I would also class that work as a complete “ re-furbishment “ albeit an extremely good example of what work should be done. As detailed as most commercial companies would have done, better than some I’ve seen. A full “ re-build “ would entail work on the alignments, ways, headstock strip down, main spindle out, feed box and apron strip down etc etc. More or less taking the machine back to as near to “ factory “ condition as is possible.
” Re-condition “ was somewhere in between “ Re-furbish “ and “ Re-build “ . They each had different criteria depending on who was doing the work. Some companies were excellent, some not so good.

Regards Tyrone

Yes, I think people use 'refurbishment, restoration, rebuild, recondition, renovate, remake' interchangeably sometimes. I have been guilty of it myself before.

You just have to look on eBay where some sellers claim they have refurbished an item when in reality all they have done is paint it and the rest of the item is in a worn/knackered condition.

Ultimately, people have different understandings of the different words and sometimes use them wrongly.
 
Yes, I think people use 'refurbishment, restoration, rebuild, recondition, renovate, remake' interchangeably sometimes. I have been guilty of it myself before.

You just have to look on eBay where some sellers claim they have refurbished an item when in reality all they have done is paint it and the rest of the item is in a worn/knackered condition.

Ultimately, people have different understandings of the different words and sometimes use them wrongly.
Yeah, we used to joke that all you needed was a tin of “ re-conditioning paint “ and a Biax flaker for the ways and you were in business.

Regards Tyrone.
 








 
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