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Foundation for a mid sized power hammer

"Slump" is the key word here. When you pull the slump cone from the cement, you want it to be around a 4 or 5 (12 being almost water). I "think" that's about the limit for hand working. The less water the better.
 
Nah. a slump of 3 for this hammer foundation. Royal PITA to place, but just tedious, not complicated. He's only doing the one.

Far worse PITA otherwise. Not as if it was a pedestal grinder with nicely balanced wheels. This thing EXISTS to deal out hammer blows.

BTW, Justin? Hope it isn't too late... you'll be wanting the hole you pour into to be flat-bottomed, clean-sided, and to have rammed the Earth just before you start. No point in perfect 'crete if it can tilt and bounce around on a curved base. Your goal is to transfer the residual shock to Mother Earth's broad shoulders, there being no such animal as a truly immovable object.


Bill
Bill,
Yeah, I s'pose you're right. Especially when dumping it into a hole. But a #3 is damn stiff!
 
Vibrating is for getting the air out
Another way is to put vacuum on the mix
In this case possible with a piece of plywood covering the hole Perhaps some foam around the edges and then a vacuumcleaner through a hole in the plywood
Should work

Peter from holland
 
The other thing that probably should have been done on the hammer foundation was to put a layer of number 2 crushed stone at the bottom of the hole. This layer would be about 6" deep. It was always "design practice" on machinery and structural foundations to put a bed of number 2 crushed stone down and rake it off level before placing the concrete. This was done for drainage and to help with distributing the load of the foundation on the excavated surface of the soil.

Another thing that used to be done in larger hammer foundations and on some stamping press foundations was to put down a bed of either creosote impregnated oak or tar-coated cork blocking. This was laid at the bottom of the excavation for the foundation. The sides of the foundations for large hammers and stamping presses were also "jacketed" with either creosote=impregnated hardwood or tar-coated cork blocking. The purpose was to provide complete isolation of the foundation from the subgrade soil as well as the surrounding building. The foundations for hammers and other machinery with impact loads were designed as "inertia blocks". There was enough mass in the foundation to fully absorb the energy of the hammer or press's impact (or what portion of it that did not go into the work being forged or stamped). Older editions of "Machinery's Handbook" have some information on foundations for forging hammers.

I'd still go with a 3" to 3 1/2" slump for concrete going into a hammer foundation. Place the concrete in "lifts" of maybe 6" if you are mixing it on site, and rod the concrete with steel rods to get it to compact into a homogeneous mass. The use of the vibrator does compact the concrete and work up any air pockets. Unfortunately, many laborers tend to use the vibrators to move the concrete in the forms. On big pours with lots of tight mats or rebar and lots of imbed items (such as anchor bolts, piping, grounding cable mats, etc), and with blockouts (openings formed in the concrete with formwork), a stiff mix of concrete does not want to just drop and fill the forms. This is when the laborers up on top of the forms start working the vibrators (known in the trade as bull pricks). A good crew will keep the vibrators moving steadily, either working them up and down, or moving them along in the forms. Letting the vibrators stand too long in any one spot in the concrete causes "segregation of the aggregates". Fancy term for having all the crushed stone settle to the bottom of the concrete in that location.

I've worked jobs where we placed 1200 to 1500 yards of concrete in one continuous pour on hydroelectric plant work. I've worked jobs where we used concrete buckets run off the cranes, and I've worked jobs where we used the concrete pumps. Probably the wildest way of placing concrete that I've been around is "Tremie' placement". We were putting in caisson foundations for some power transmission (aka "high line" or "power line") structures. The right of way for a power transmission line zig zags based on getting the right of way from landowners, avoiding certain things like towns and wetlands, and it follows the terrain. As a result, many of the foundations get put in up on mountainsides or out in the woods. A caisson foundation is augered into the earth, and is about 12 feet in diameter and can be as much as 40 feet deep. Into this hole goes a sectional steel shell to hold the walls from caving in, and then a prefabbed rebar cage made of number 12 bar ( 1 1/2") and number 16 (2") bar is set in the hole. In the middle goes a prefabbed anchor bolt assembly with all the bolts welded to support/spacer bars. Needless to say, this is a massive pour to deal with, often in rough and remote locations. Naturally, if you open a hole 40 feet deep, you stand a good chance of ground water filling it. When that happens, it is time for the "Tremie' pour". No effort is made to unwater the hole. The Tremie pour is done with a steel pipe about 12" inner diameter that is assembled with mechanical joints and lowered to the bottom of the hole. At the top of the pipe, there is a pouring funnel or hopper for the concrete. A fancy Tremie pour setup will have a steel gate at the bottom of the pipe, worked by cable from up on top. We never had anything that fancy. We used to get a basket ball or soccer ball and inflate it so it plugged the bottom of the Tremie pipe. The Tremi pipe was lowered down the hole with a crane. When the Tremie pipe was in place and chained off, the concrete trucks started mixing and placing. We'd have the trucks lined up and timing was everything. Due to the remoteness of the sites, we'd have the trucks batch out dry from the batch plant. Water was introduced to the mix at the site of the pour. We'd test slump, air entrainment, mix temperature, water temp on the trucks, and number of turns. Tremie concrete is a stiff mix. It has to be, since it is dropping down the Tremie pipe and then going under water. The concrete went down the Tremie pipe, and pushed out the ball (which came bobbing up to the surface of the water). The concrete was placed continuously into the Tremie pipe, and it displaced the water in the hole, causing it to rise up and out from the top of the hole. The steel casing in the hole was usually pulled when the concrete was fairly high in the hole and the water had been displaced. At that point, a set of steel ring forms were set at the grade line to form the extension of the foundation above the grade line. It was a simple and ingenious method of placing concrete, and we used it a lot for flooded excavations.

I visited a water tunnel job that was about 600 ft below the elevation of the ground above. Went down in a mine hoist cage, pretty much like in a coal mine. The water tunnel (for NYC) was huge, and was being excavated in solid rock. Once the rock excavation and roof bolting was done, the tunnel was being line with concrete. The concrete was mixed up at the surface at the head of the shaft by an on site batch plant. A large steel pipe descended vertically in the shaft, all the way to the bottom. At the bottom of the shaft, there was a hopper to receive the concrete, which was the supply to a concrete pump. The way the concrete was moved was quite interesting. A pumpable mix of concrete with admixtures to retard set time and increase workability and eliminate voids was dumped down this pipe. The first few yards of concrete were considered as "cushion concrete". The first few yards were allowed to sit at the bottom of the hopper, and the rest of the batch was what made it into the pump. The reason was to give the concrete a cushion so the aggregate did not all wind up at the bottom of the hopper. The pump moved the concrete out through pipes (slick lines) over what seemed impossibly long distances to where it was being placed to line the tunnel. The first few yards of each batch were sent up to the surface along with excavated rock and other debris. The tunnel and valve chamber were so big that large rubber tired articulated loaders and steel tracked dozers and loaders were in use in it. Those were lowered down the shaft in semi-disassembled condition and re-assembled at the bottom. Good diesel exhaust filters and catalytic converters, along with good ventilation allowed the diesel equipment to run in the tunnels. We walked something like 3 miles one way in the tunnel they were working on, crossing from the Bronx into Westchester County to get to the heading where the liner concrete was being placed. Interesting work, but not a job I'd care to be on.
 
Personally, I'd pay the extra to have ready mix delivered on site. I've mixed sacrete, and it sucks very quickly. Life's to short. If you can do it all in one pour you have my admiration. But the concern as to quality with the last bag will be a small fraction of the concern expressed at the start.
 
For a hammer foundation wood in the bottom, sonitube on the sides, wood or felt on the top, hoops for rebar.

If you couple to good to the ground the whole world will feel your hammer.

If you tie the hammer to the foundation it will eventually disintegrate the concrete.

Key is to keep it from tipping over and blocked in to keep it from walking.
 
One of my kid brothers went through this about a dozen years ago. He started out using Beaudry's specs for foundations, which include end grain white oak timber/pilings in the bottom of the hole. After a lot of research and back & forth, he went with a 3' deep isolated pier, with a sheet of 3/4" plywood between the hammer base and pier. He decided to stop the concrete in the shop back from the blacksmithing area, and use traditional raked gravel as being easier to maintain. So there was less need for other precautions with the rest of the slab. My understanding is that it has worked quite well over the years. But he does not do heavy work on an every day basis.

This is his small hammer (Beaudry #7/ 200#. There is also a 300 lb #40 there.

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smt
 
My hammer is downright tiny compared to one of those beaudry uprights =) The fact of the matter is, with my 75# hammer, i probably could have run it on my 5" slab just fine for years and years before I'd even see a crack =) I just wanted something more substantial if i was going to me moving it. The specs for the foundation for this hammer call for something a whole lot smaller than I'm making. just an 18 inch thick 2 foot by 3 foot footing, and then some end grain timber on top of it to be sacrificial and absorb shock.
 
Justin,

You are probably going to be rather pleased with making the effort, especially if you have enough isolation from the existing slab. I think you are doing it right and avoiding problems with settling and cracking your garage slab over the years, so long as the new pier is able to "move" up & down independently of putting and forces on it.

smt
 
I would (well, in fact, I did) just buy a cheap mobile cement mixer from the home depot- maybe 300 or 400 dollars, and worth every penny. Then, when you are done, put it on craigslist, its cheaper than a rental or paying for a minimum load. But I may be older than you, and creakier- I have nothing to prove to anyone anymore with feats of physical prowess…

It is true that the classic footings include wood- my friend Russell Jacque put something like five thousand dollars worth of huge oak timbers down in the footing for his 750lb Chambersburg. That hole was big enough to stack a pair of VW bugs in. You dont even wanna know about the amount of concrete in that one- but I think, all up, that footing was approaching ten G's.
Unfortunately, he died soon after, only had a short time to enjoy the hammer, and then it moved to Montana or somewhere.
 
I would (well, in fact, I did) just buy a cheap mobile cement mixer from the home depot- maybe 300 or 400 dollars, and worth every penny. Then, when you are done, put it on craigslist, its cheaper than a rental or paying for a minimum load. But I may be older than you, and creakier- I have nothing to prove to anyone anymore with feats of physical prowess…

I've already bought myself an inexpensive portable cement mixer =) I'm only 32, but if I'm a fan of smart work, not hard work =D
 
In the UK we have Rawlbolts, which are an expanding fixing system, there must be a US equivalent. Move in the machine, drill through the fixing holesdrop in the bolts, and tighten. The resin fixed bolts are excellent, but I don't know if they would last with the pounding of a power hammer, I want one, just so I can find out. Is that a Jaguar I see poking it's nose into the pic?
Phil UK
 
Rawl exists in the USA as well. Expanding anchor bolts are a good choice, and names such as "Kwik Bolt", "Thunderstud", or any number of drilled-in wedging bolts from Hilti will work.

Powers (the US company which has Rawl anchors) and Hilti have published data as to the safe working loads on their anchors both in tension and in shear, based on the diameter of the anchor bolt, depth of engagement, and compressive strength of the concrete. The data also includes minimum spacing of the drilled-in anchors from each other and from the edge of a foundation or slab. I've designed jobs using wedge type drilled-in anchors more times than I can remember and never had a problem with the anchors.

I'd suggest looking up "Philadelphia Resin" online. They market a line of resin grouts for not only grouting machinery for bearing loads, but also to chock it against lateral motion relative to the foundation. The resin grout would hold the top of the concrete foundation and provide a solid bond or "cap" as well as chocking the hammer frame. The downsides to this type of resin grouting is that once something is set on/in it, there is no removing it by any easy or clean means in the future. The other downside if price, but for a small job like the hammer foundation, not too much would be needed. Philadelphia Resin does provide excellent tech support, so it would be worth a call. There are various grades of "Chockfast" resin grouts, and Chockfast Red (I believe) is recommended for grouting and chocking reciprocating machinery and applications with high vibration. A layer of resin grout between the hammer frame and the top of the foundation might be the ideal thing for coupling the hammer frame solidly to the foundation with a rigid epoxy resin (better able to absorb impact than cement based grouts). Another thought might be to make a cap for the foundation out of a couple of thicknesses of white oak. Laminate the oak boards together with the grain perpendicular from one layer to the next. Make the assembled white oak "mat" as big as the foundation top. Anchor it with drilled in bolts, possibly seated on Adhaesium Felt to bond the mat to the concrete foundation and take up any dips and dives in the surface of the concrete. Before setting the mat, counterbore the underside and run some mounting bolts up thru it to catch the anchor bolt holes in the hammer frame. I'd bed the hammer frame on a second layer of Adhaesium Felt on top of the white oak mat. Result is the hammer is separated from the concrete by a layer of white oak and two thicknesses of resin-impregnated felt. It is also chocked against sidewards movement by way of the Adhaesium Felt. My seat of the pants (aka "WAG" wild-ass guess, another engineering term) design for the white oak mat would be to use two thicknesses of dressed 6/4's white oak. Plane the white oak to match thicknesses and run the edges off on a jointer for edge-gluing. I'd assemble the mat using something like "Headlock" screws to pull the two thicknesses together, and use a good wood glue (Titebond is probably good enough, IMO).

Around my part of the country, we have small local sawmills. Getting white oak sawn out for planks is not a problem. A couple of months back we re-decked a railroad flat car with 6/4's rough sawn white oak. The deck was 50' long x 10 ft wide. The mill charged somewhere around $2.00 per board foot, and delivered the load with their truck. For a job like a power hammer base, I'd get rough sawn planks, let them air dry (most rural sawmills sell the rough sawn lumber as green or semi-dried). It beats going to a lumber yard (if you can find a real lumber yard anymore), or going to a hardwood dealer (where you are looking at kiln dried hardwood of a more select grade).
 
After an exhausting holiday monday, i've got the foundation poured and ready to sit for a month. The morning started bright and early at 8am with the delivery of 50 bags of the high strength quickreet. I bought a harbor freight single bag mixer to do the job and got started on it around 11:30 after running some errands, and buying a new hose because my old one had a split in the middle, as i found out when it started to spray water all over my basement when i turned the faucet on. Finished right around 5:30 after cleaning off the tools and locking up. By calculation it should have taken 37 bags, and It ended up taking exactly that. I kept the concrete as dry as i could, using between 3 and 4 quarts of water per bag.

Joe (99Panhard) came over and helped me by tapping down / packing the concrete first with a 2x4 and then as there became space, with a hand compactor. Once the concrete got high enough, I put the isolation material, sold for expansion joints in concrete, around the edges of the hole. His packing down the concrete easily made it go 3x as fast as it was alone. As he packed it down, it seemed that the 'loose' water floated to the top, I'm assuming this is as intended.

As we got to the last bag, we discovered that my concrete floor for the garage is sloped, so the concrete in the pad wants to bulge a little to the 'back' (by the doors). We were able to mostly get that smoothed out by sliding a board back and forth with sawing motion over the hole, repeatedly.

As can be clearly seen, I did not end up casting in place any bolts, and will be just drilling down with a 1" bit once I have the hammer in place, and epoxying in the 3/4 all thread. This is how the hammer is held down now and it works just fine, and I really needed to get this concrete poured because we're almost getting down to freezing at nights now.

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Foundation has been curing for 10 days, and I'm told that should be plenty to be able to move the hammer ontop of it. I'll be using the 1 inch rubber mat and 2 inches of plywood that it's currently using for shock absorbing.

I just got a new toy in the shop today that I want to play with this weekend, so I guess I'll try to move the hammer early in the weekend and give me time to play with my new hydraulic forging press =)

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This morning was the big move. Stayed in the garage last night till 2am removing the top shaft, motor and accessories from the hammer, and moving everything around in the shop to give space for the gantry crane.

In fact, I figured out that if i moved my lighting fixtures to the sides of the ceiling beams that I could raise the gantry crane 4 inches and actually give myself a whole lot more clearance with the hammer, so... i spent an hour moving all the lights too. Being an early dupont hammer, before they changed frame styles to the 'through' back with the hole, the place I had to grab the hammer around the waist is a bit unbalanced. I found it much easier to move by using both the gantry crane and my engine hoist together to keep the hammer balanced.

My original plan was to lift the hammer up about 2 inches and use my sawzall to cut the existing threaded rod, but with the extra 4 inches I was able to just clear the rods and lift the hammer over. After that it was a matter of inching it across the garage to its new home and centering it and the plywood and rubber mat on the new foundation. All that is left now is to drill the anchor bolt holes and epoxy them in. I picked up some Epcon A7 anchor epoxy at fastenall, hopefully one tube is enough for 4 holes, because this stuff is over $40 a tube!

While the hammer is in the new spot and with the motor removed, I'm going to re-manufacture the motor mount to be down low and behind, similar to the original dupont electric motor powered hammers. This means that I'll have to fabricate a swing arm for the tensioner and probably turn an idler pulley or two on the lathe as well. I'm not going to reuse the shaft that it had because it was very stiff and not very free moving, and i'm sure that I lost a ton of power in the transmission. Instead I'll make a new counter-shaft with new bearings.

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Ugh, so I was going to put the holes in the concrete for the anchors today. Got out in the shop, and got one hole about 4 inches deep and totally blew apart the chuck on my hammer drill. which is only about 4 months old, but old enough to be out of warranty already. I should have spent more and got a quality one, because now I just had to go buy a new hammer drill (got myself a dewalt this time) so I can finish this hole and do another 3. Guess I'm not buying another Hitachi power tool.

I suppose this proves the old craftsman adage, only a rich man can afford cheap tools.
 
Ugh, so I was going to put the holes in the concrete for the anchors today. Got out in the shop, and got one hole about 4 inches deep and totally blew apart the chuck on my hammer drill. which is only about 4 months old, but old enough to be out of warranty already. I should have spent more and got a quality one, because now I just had to go buy a new hammer drill (got myself a dewalt this time) so I can finish this hole and do another 3. Guess I'm not buying another Hitachi power tool.

I suppose this proves the old craftsman adage, only a rich man can afford cheap tools.

I don't know what model you broke or what model you bought or how often you do this type of work, but . . .
If the task is infrequent and also takes more tool than you want to invest in, serious hammer drills are pretty inexpensive to rent.

On edit: I forgot to mention "looking good".
 








 
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