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FS or trade - Jacobs Superchucks, all USA

aribert

Cast Iron
Joined
Jul 2, 2008
Location
Metro Detroit, MI
I have several Jacobs Superchucks 11N (0-3/8 grip), 14N (1/32-1/2 grip), & 16N (1/8-5/8 grip). All chucks are USA mfg. Shipping of chucks via USPS flat rate. 11N & 14N: USPS flat rate padded envelope $9.75, 16N: flat rate box $13.75

I could use CXA tool holders, name brand or import - PM me to talk trade. I have more images of each chuck that I could send out.

A: 14N, w/key, Jacobs arbor with 3/4 inch shank Opening - smooth the entire range; Closing - 3 places binding, harder to turn (still able to turn by hand the full distance) $55 + shipping
B: 11N, w/key, smooth entire range for open and close, shows minimal wear/use/dings $40 + shipping
C: 11N, w/key, smooth entire range for open and close, dark stained $35 + shipping
D: 14N, w/key, Jacobs arbor with 3/4 inch dia shank, smooth for entire range of open and close, shank is dinged up $55 + shipping
E: Jacobs 16N, w/key, Jacobs 3MT arbor, spins freely, easily entire travel open and close $75 + shipping
F: Jacobs 16N, w/key, Jacobs arbor w/ 1 inch shank, spins freely, easily entire travel open and close $75 + shipping
G: Jacobs 16N, w/ key (bent), scrape marks in taper, spins freely, easily entire travel open and close $70 + shipping
 

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More images of the Superchucks
 

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More Superchuck images
 

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Item G sold

Chucks A & C still available. I have at least one straight shank arbor that fits an 11N.

Chucks J & L still available from the other lot.

Still open for trades for any of the SuperChucks - looking for CXA tool holders and select 64th 5C collets, also I could also use a Kennametal or equivalent topnotch style tool holder - desired Topnotch tool holder is a left, guessing the toolholder P/Ns would read: NSL 12-3B, VLSL 123B (I just replaced the R in the P/Ns on my existing holders w/ an "L"). Aso - anyone have a junk Buck 8 inch chuck? - I need a scroll and pinion (and yes I realize the scroll will be worn on a junk chuck but I've got an 8 inch Buck 6-jaw that came w/o a scroll). My Buck is an older one with the brass name tag.
 
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Can I ask a newbie question - for the 11N with no arbor....what's the deal? Do you thread an arbor on? How is the arbor retained and located in place?
 
I'm the OP and I still have one 11N unsold (now on eBay). An arbor for this chuck would have a 2JT (locking) taper on it. Do a search for say 2JT x R8 or 2JT x 1/2 straight shank for an image of the taper. The chuck is pressed onto the arbor. I tend to use a **very** light film of Loctite 609 because I have some on hand. I have also used the red high strength thread locker in the past. Does help to apply some heat to press the arbor out when Loctite has been used.
 
Thank you for the response. Learned something new today!

Do all Jacobs chucks have the arbor fitted on via locking taper? Or only some? I'm wondering if I could just press off the bent arbor on my existing 14N chuck and replace the arbor, versus finding a whole new chuck. The rest of the chuck is in fine shape. Do the wedges that I'm seeing typically get the arbors off without issue, or is it better to just go straight to the press?

Which of the two 11N's do you still have left for sale, by the way?
 
Jaylude:
If the arbor is bent and the chuck functions well, definitely replace the arbor instead of both the chuck and arbor. Your 14N will have the JT taper noted on the chuck body. I think it is 3JT. The few times I have swapped out arbors (I just switched over from a 3MT tailstock lathe to a 4MT tailstock lathe) I drilled the center of the chuck body to be able to get a shaft (dowel pin or drill rod) thru to press on the arbor. I have never splurged to buy the Jacobs wedges.

The 11N I still have is "H" - was offered on a different posting a few days after this posting was started.
 
Take and open up the jaws as big as they will open up. In the lathe, chuck up on the bent shank and like aribert said, drill thru the web inside the chuck to the arbor. If you can get it in there, use a 1/2" drill bit or as close as you can get to it. Once you break through, continue drilling into the arbor about 3/4". This will help relieve some forces that are holding the arbor in the taper. Take it out of the lathe setup in a piece of tubing with a hole big enough to clear the big part of the taper in the back of the chuck. Next, drop the biggest rod, long bolt, or big punch into the drilled hole. Take a two-pound hammer and give it a sharp blow. May take a couple strikes, it should pop out. Don't be afraid to get rough with the hammer blow. In most of them I've removed over the years, that's what it takes on these larger chucks to get a stuck arbor removed most of the time. Ken
 
You guys rock, and you saved me some money too. Thank you. I really do appreciate it. Sure enough, my arbor is marked A4003, which is a 1/2" straight shank with a JT3 taper. So I should be able to remove the bent arbor and install a new one via the process detailed above.

@aribert - your two Jacobs chuck FS adds seem to go from A-G, to J-P...no H or I?
 
aribert - your two Jacobs chuck FS adds seem to go from A-G, to J-P...no H or I?

I did not realize that, I had several 11Ns at the same time. Maybe I did not bother to list them all at the same time and I don't think there was any interest for any of the 11Ns here anyway.
 
Sorry, I only have one 11N left.

And yesterday I was second highest bidder (as seems to be typical for me) on a lot of 4 Super Chucks, one of which needed new jaws.
 








 
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