- Mar 12, 2002
I wonder why it was shown "permanently closed" in red of all things on the Google Search.? Maybe recently rescued? It's good to know they are still around.
My guess is they closed during the Covid hysteria and the Google listing never got updatedI wonder why it was shown "permanently closed" in red of all things on the Google Search.? Maybe recently rescued? It's good to know they are still around.
Could you be getting cross contamination from products being used on your home remodeling?That orange peel appearance looks more like what is called fisheye. It's caused by contamination from products with silicone in them. You may have to sand all of that paint down to primer to get rid of it, You can't re-paint over it.
If it's not completely dry in the morning it would be best to wash it off and get a fresh start.
Avoid any products with silicone anywhere near your paint area or on anything related to your air supply. Your washdown should have removed any oil. Silicone is hard to clean off.
I'm working on it, but needed to give the poly time to cure. Full cure is 7+ days since I dont maintain the shop at 70+ at night. Time is a ticking, as I have a hand surgery scheduled for the 26th. So wont be able to do much after that.Get those parts off the bench!!! Gheesh
My bearings were were both New Departure, C87503.View attachment 374561
I then used a tiny Starrett starter punch to tap the Woodruff key out.
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It's quite small.
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I could then press the Feed Rod Clutch shaft out of the bearing assembly. There is a ground washer on the outside of the plate.
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I then used a drift in my arbor press to push the bearing stack out.
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It uses two New Departure C 8503 Bearings. Anyone know the difference between the C and WC versions?
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There is a spacer ring between the bearings that the long dog point setscrews hold in place.
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I then removed the oil seal from the upper shaft bore using a blind bearing puller.
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It is a Victor 60318 Evidently a Federal-Mogul Encased Seal 470045 50045S 60318 H296 00044 5330001790861 is a cross reference for it
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Here is the whole assembly laid out.
I've used thread forming taps for this, they don't have flutes and are less likely to cross-thread a hole. But be careful, you don't want to snap one off in the hole!...
I then chased all of the threaded holes in the head stock, the switch uses an 8-32 thread, since they dont make thread chasers this small I used a tap.
That would be a bad day snapping one off!, forming or fluted! Why would a forming tap be better when we are trying to clean the hole out sans the point about the potential cross threading?I've used thread forming taps for this, they don't have flutes and are less likely to cross-thread a hole. But be careful, you don't want to snap one off in the hole!
They're more like a screw, so they'll follow existing threads. In my experience, it's pretty easy to get crooked or whatever with a fluted tap and start cutting new threads, particularly with small, fine threads. And if you're working on a hole that wasn't tapped square to begin with, it's easy to get a bad start. A thread forming tap wouldn't be a good choice if the hole is full of gunk, but if you just want to refresh the threads, they work great. The only time I had a problem was with a tap that I had dropped. It looked fine, but was probably cracked and snapped off, fortunately well above the hole and it was easy to remove.That would be a bad day snapping one off!, forming or fluted! Why would a forming tap be better when we are trying to clean the hole out sans the point about the potential cross threading?
Thanks Cal. Added some to the next McMaster order. Been cranking away the last few days.I've used thread forming taps for this, they don't have flutes and are less likely to cross-thread a hole. But be careful, you don't want to snap one off in the hole!
You're driving a tapered thread into a cylindrical hole, so of course it gets harder as you go along. One thing that might help is to use a pipe reamer to remove some of the excess material at the large end. There are also interrupted thread pipe taps that basically have every other tooth removed to cut down on the friction. They're pretty pricey; it might work to grind off every other tooth to make your own.View attachment 377468
I couldn't find my good rigid ¾ tap that I used on the drain holes for the bed... I really need to sort out my plumbing tools. The only place in town that was open on Sunday and had any pipe taps was Horror Freight... so I gave their's a try. I was only able to get 3 threads cut into the bore before I could no longer advance the tap, despite having to reverse and break the chips each ¼ turn. I have had issues with pipe taps being difficult to cut threads with due to their tapper in the past, but this is ridiculous. I need to either find my good tap, and try it again, or go to plan "B" and use a standard tap.....