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Fwd/Rev Switch Re-Location

mcload

Hot Rolled
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Location
Houston, Texas
Hello crew. Just thought I'd pass along my idea for relocating the barrel switch to my 9".

Previously, it was located right next to the motor which required reaching over the spinning work,
not to mention how nasty it got with swarfage. Since I was re-doing my lathe from top to bottom,
the location of this switch was high on my improvement list. As much as I tried, I really couldn't find
a location on the headstock end of the lathe where it wouldn't get in the way or be out of reach. Mounting on
the front of the bench just meant I was going to be running into it all the time. And I'm not much of a fan
of the switch location on top of the gear covers either.

But looking to the right (tailstock) end, there was plenty of uncrowded and unused real estate. The key was how to mount it, and I determined that a used clamping bracket for the swinging gear cover would be perfect. So I routed my newly purchased 5-conductor cable from the motor into and through the cabinet, over to the far side. Also from McMaster, I got a ½" alum plate (precut 2"x6") and a clamping bracket with a ¾ hole. I marked and threaded two #10 holes for the switch on the front, and two #10's for the clamp in the back. The used bracket came from that auction site. I already use an extra just to hold a work light.

All I needed was a shaft to elevate the switch about 8 or 9 inches above where the tailstock might reside.
I finally got my lathe in working order enough to turn a 1" round stock of aluminum. I could have used ¾",
but it looked too skinny, and, I have a ton of spare 1" round stock to use up. Besides, beefier is better!

So I turned one end down to 3/4 and the other down to ½", and skinned about 10 thou off the middle section.
I also turned a small "clearance area" on the ½ end for the thumb screw to land. So as you can see from the pics, this turned out to be a great place for the switch...at least it is for me. I can slide it forward or backward, placing it wherever it suits me, and it doesn't obstruct the carriage.

(I was planning on turning a "spindle" shape on the shaft with tapers meeting in the middle using the tailstock to offset the piece. But I'm not exactly sure how to do that between offset centers in the workpiece. Maybe for another day.)

Let me say here that I absolutely HATE that damn cheap Dayton switch...the cover is impossible to put back on, among other things!).

Okay, I'm done. Stay safe.

PMc

View attachment 285123 View attachment 285125 View attachment 285127 View attachment 285126 View attachment 285128
 
Last edited:
Joined
Nov 19, 2007
Location
marysville ohio
Hello crew. Just thought I'd pass along my idea for relocating the barrel switch to my 9".

Previously, it was located right next to the motor which required reaching over the spinning work,
not to mention how nasty it got with swarfage. Since I was re-doing my lathe from top to bottom,
the location of this switch was high on my improvement list. As much as I tried, I really couldn't find
a location on the headstock end of the lathe where it wouldn't get in the way or be out of reach. Mounting on
the front of the bench just meant I was going to be running into it all the time. And I'm not much of a fan
of the switch location on top of the gear covers either.

But looking to the right (tailstock) end, there was plenty of uncrowded and unused real estate. The key was how to mount it, and I determined that a used clamping bracket for the swinging gear cover would be perfect. So I routed my newly purchased 5-conductor cable from the motor into and through the cabinet, over to the far side. Also from McMaster, I got a ½" alum plate (precut 2"x6") and a clamping bracket with a ¾ hole. I marked and threaded two #10 holes for the switch on the front, and two #10's for the clamp in the back. The used bracket came from that auction site. I already use an extra just to hold a work light.

All I needed was a shaft to elevate the switch about 8 or 9 inches above where the tailstock might reside.
I finally got my lathe in working order enough to turn a 1" round stock of aluminum. I could have used ¾",
but it looked too skinny, and, I have a ton of spare 1" round stock to use up. Besides, beefier is better!

So I turned one end down to 3/4 and the other down to ½", and skinned about 10 thou off the middle section.
I also turned a small "clearance area" on the ½ end for the thumb screw to land. So as you can see from the pics, this turned out to be a great place for the switch...at least it is for me. I can keep it on the rear way or I can bring it around to the front way if I need to.

(I was planning on turning a "spindle" shape on the shaft with tapers meeting in the middle using the tailstock to offset the piece. But I'm not exactly sure how to do that between offset centers in the workpiece. Maybe for another day.)

Let me say here that I absolutely HATE that damn cheap Dayton switch...the cover is impossible to put back on, among other things!).

Okay, I'm done. Stay safe.

PMc

View attachment 285123 View attachment 285125 View attachment 285127 View attachment 285126 View attachment 285128

About 25 years ago I put mine on the carriage of my SB 16. I used stranded wire in armor flex and it has been trouble free and handy as hell. No reaching at all, your hands are at the carriage anyway.
 

mcload

Hot Rolled
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Location
Houston, Texas
Frankly, I don't have any idea how that dial got on the lathe. It was something my Dad
installed long ago. I don't know the manufacturer, but I kinda doubt it was South Bend Lathe
as we would see lots of them for sale in the used parts bin.
Did he make it? I doubt that too as the dial looks professionally manufactured.
I only wish he had done the top slider too!
Sorry I couldn't be more help.

PMc
 
Last edited:

jim rozen

Diamond
Joined
Feb 26, 2004
Location
peekskill, NY
tell me about the large dial setup on your machine . is that a home brew or SouthBend parts?
animal

That's stock southbend. When they were in business you could simply purchase the large dial setup (dial, bushing, handle, lead
screw, new nut) for money. A lot of money.

I did this for my original 9A southbend machine. It was a long time ago.
 

mcload

Hot Rolled
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Location
Houston, Texas
That would not work with my 8' bed!

Yes, I see your point. But actually, if you provide enough cable, you can slide
that switch anywhere on the bed you want it, depending on the project. Its not permanent
and doesn't have to be at the very end. The camera lens makes it look far away, but
actually I can reach it just fine without making a step.

I think I'll probably rig up this same system on the '59 9" model-B that is next in line.
I can even envision a rig where bearings are on the bottom of the bracket, allowing a smooth
slide....but probably overkill. (You watch, someone will prob make a sell such a thing!)

PMc

View attachment 285203
 

mcload

Hot Rolled
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Location
Houston, Texas
South Bend Large Dial Indicator

That's stock southbend. When they were in business you could simply purchase the large dial setup (dial, bushing, handle, lead screw, new nut) for money. A lot of money.
I did this for my original 9A southbend machine. It was a long time ago.

Thanks for the info Jim; I wonder why we don't see used ones on EPay...perhaps rare these days?
My Pop lost an eye in a playground accident when he was a kid, so that explains why
he wanted/needed a large dial indicator. It's great for my tired old eyes too.
Pretty sure it didn't come installed from factory, but what do I know.

PMc

View attachment 285236
 

Kevin T

Stainless
Joined
Jan 26, 2019
Thanks for the info Jim; I wonder why we don't see used ones on EPay...perhaps rare these days?
My Pop lost an eye in a playground accident when he was a kid, so that explains why
he wanted/needed a large dial indicator. It's great for my tired old eyes too.
Pretty sure it didn't come installed from factory, but what do I know.

PMc

View attachment 285236

They show up semi regularly on ebay. I "almost" pulled the trigger a couple of times during my machine refresh but I had so much money going into the lathe without even knowing if it would work that I talked myself out of it. My crossfeed one is in pretty good shape and still readable but the compound is very worn and harder to read.
 

mcload

Hot Rolled
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Location
Houston, Texas
They show up semi regularly on ebay. I "almost" pulled the trigger a couple of times during my machine refresh but I had so much money going into the lathe without even knowing if it would work that I talked myself out of it. My crossfeed one is in pretty good shape and still readable but the compound is very worn and harder to read.

Yeah, it's too bad a complete upper and lower NEW set of large dial indicators w/shafts are so darned pricey.
Must be nice.

Yeah, a project lathe has it's way of emptying your wallet.
But you're a good man for taking on this size of a project!

PMc
 

animal12

Cast Iron
Joined
Apr 9, 2009
Location
CA USA
those arn't factory holes are they ?they must be for some attachment yer dad made . mines a 40 something & it does not have those holes
animal
 

mcload

Hot Rolled
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Location
Houston, Texas
Sorry, I don't have a clue about those holes and why they might be there; factory or not.
I personally never saw him use any special assemblies or gadgets on the saddle that used those holes.
Nor do I have any left-over tooling that matches those holes.
He bought it used from some guy in Dallas around '49 or '50, so who knows. I could use some calipers
to see how accurate they are to one another, but that wouldn't necessarily mean anything except that
a mill was used.

I appreciate your pointing that out; I never gave them much thought.

PMc
 

jim rozen

Diamond
Joined
Feb 26, 2004
Location
peekskill, NY
Those tapped holes are there probably because, at some time, this machine was used to
line bore a part, which was attached to the top of the carriage with those holes.

Older machines used to have small T-slots there for that purpose.
 

TDegenhart

Diamond
Joined
Mar 26, 2011
Location
Geneva Illinois USA
I fastened an "L" shaped bracket to the back gear cover of my heavy 10 and mounted both the high/low speed and backward/forward drum switches to it. Been that way for 50 years without a problem. No way was I going to reach over a spinning part to get to the "off" switch.

Tom100_0212.jpg
 








 
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