mcload
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2007
- Location
- Houston, Texas
Hello crew. Just thought I'd pass along my idea for relocating the barrel switch to my 9".
Previously, it was located right next to the motor which required reaching over the spinning work,
not to mention how nasty it got with swarfage. Since I was re-doing my lathe from top to bottom,
the location of this switch was high on my improvement list. As much as I tried, I really couldn't find
a location on the headstock end of the lathe where it wouldn't get in the way or be out of reach. Mounting on
the front of the bench just meant I was going to be running into it all the time. And I'm not much of a fan
of the switch location on top of the gear covers either.
But looking to the right (tailstock) end, there was plenty of uncrowded and unused real estate. The key was how to mount it, and I determined that a used clamping bracket for the swinging gear cover would be perfect. So I routed my newly purchased 5-conductor cable from the motor into and through the cabinet, over to the far side. Also from McMaster, I got a ½" alum plate (precut 2"x6") and a clamping bracket with a ¾ hole. I marked and threaded two #10 holes for the switch on the front, and two #10's for the clamp in the back. The used bracket came from that auction site. I already use an extra just to hold a work light.
All I needed was a shaft to elevate the switch about 8 or 9 inches above where the tailstock might reside.
I finally got my lathe in working order enough to turn a 1" round stock of aluminum. I could have used ¾",
but it looked too skinny, and, I have a ton of spare 1" round stock to use up. Besides, beefier is better!
So I turned one end down to 3/4 and the other down to ½", and skinned about 10 thou off the middle section.
I also turned a small "clearance area" on the ½ end for the thumb screw to land. So as you can see from the pics, this turned out to be a great place for the switch...at least it is for me. I can slide it forward or backward, placing it wherever it suits me, and it doesn't obstruct the carriage.
(I was planning on turning a "spindle" shape on the shaft with tapers meeting in the middle using the tailstock to offset the piece. But I'm not exactly sure how to do that between offset centers in the workpiece. Maybe for another day.)
Let me say here that I absolutely HATE that damn cheap Dayton switch...the cover is impossible to put back on, among other things!).
Okay, I'm done. Stay safe.
PMc
View attachment 285123 View attachment 285125 View attachment 285127 View attachment 285126 View attachment 285128
Previously, it was located right next to the motor which required reaching over the spinning work,
not to mention how nasty it got with swarfage. Since I was re-doing my lathe from top to bottom,
the location of this switch was high on my improvement list. As much as I tried, I really couldn't find
a location on the headstock end of the lathe where it wouldn't get in the way or be out of reach. Mounting on
the front of the bench just meant I was going to be running into it all the time. And I'm not much of a fan
of the switch location on top of the gear covers either.
But looking to the right (tailstock) end, there was plenty of uncrowded and unused real estate. The key was how to mount it, and I determined that a used clamping bracket for the swinging gear cover would be perfect. So I routed my newly purchased 5-conductor cable from the motor into and through the cabinet, over to the far side. Also from McMaster, I got a ½" alum plate (precut 2"x6") and a clamping bracket with a ¾ hole. I marked and threaded two #10 holes for the switch on the front, and two #10's for the clamp in the back. The used bracket came from that auction site. I already use an extra just to hold a work light.
All I needed was a shaft to elevate the switch about 8 or 9 inches above where the tailstock might reside.
I finally got my lathe in working order enough to turn a 1" round stock of aluminum. I could have used ¾",
but it looked too skinny, and, I have a ton of spare 1" round stock to use up. Besides, beefier is better!
So I turned one end down to 3/4 and the other down to ½", and skinned about 10 thou off the middle section.
I also turned a small "clearance area" on the ½ end for the thumb screw to land. So as you can see from the pics, this turned out to be a great place for the switch...at least it is for me. I can slide it forward or backward, placing it wherever it suits me, and it doesn't obstruct the carriage.
(I was planning on turning a "spindle" shape on the shaft with tapers meeting in the middle using the tailstock to offset the piece. But I'm not exactly sure how to do that between offset centers in the workpiece. Maybe for another day.)
Let me say here that I absolutely HATE that damn cheap Dayton switch...the cover is impossible to put back on, among other things!).
Okay, I'm done. Stay safe.
PMc
View attachment 285123 View attachment 285125 View attachment 285127 View attachment 285126 View attachment 285128
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