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Gluing to HDPE?

Try Henkel/Loctite 3035. Epoxy designed specifically for low surface-energy plastics like HDPE.

As always with adhesives, surface-prep is everything. At minimum I would hit the surface with an abrasive to remove any embedded dirt and then clean with IPA + a clean, lint-free wipe.

If you want to know the effect of sanding/cleaning/blowtorch/plasma/voodoo doll/magic beans/etc I'd make some test coupons if possible, and/or pick up some dyne pens to test the surface energy before/after any treatment method. Without testing/data it's hard to come down on one side or the other.

The Tech-Bond site is heavy on words and light on anything actionable like data or specifications. But solvent welding works after all, so assuming it's a solvent-welding process it's worth a shot for HDPE<>HDPE bonds.
 
Construction adhesive like PL400................liberally scuff the surface and you should be good to go...............I have glued UHMW and HDPE to concrete and needed a hammer and chisel to get it free..................
 
Construction adhesive like PL400................liberally scuff the surface and you should be good to go...............I have glued UHMW and HDPE to concrete and needed a hammer and chisel to get it free..................

I'll add it to the list of adhesives in going to try.

Something in a caulk gun tube would be really convenient for the bigger parts I'm putting on the jet-drive kayak. Lots of ribs to stiffen of the hull and a big frame for the motor mounts.
 
There is an inverse relationship between a materials cohesive properties and its adhesive property with cohesiveness related to sealant properties. So a really strong material in bulk wont be a good adhesive and a good adhesive tends to be weak.
 
Right. I was going to use the adhesive in conjunction with mechanical fasteners.

Last night I made a stainless cleat for an anchor rope and was BARELY able to get lock nuts in there to bolt it to the deck. I mean, I had to lay down at a funny angle and it actually hurt to get my arm through the deck hatch to get the nuts on the screws.

That would've been a good place to use adhesive in conjunction with the coarse thread (guess they call it plastic thread?) screws.

Now, I don't expect screwed and glued parts to hold as well as through-hull bolted stuff. The cleat is more than sturdy enough to pick up the 100+ pound kayak (big Ocean Kayak) and swing it around - in fact, I did. I just want to make sure that I'm not going to hit a fitting with something when I throw the Yak in my truck and end up ripping screws out. Plus, some of the attachments - namely rod holders, can take a lot of force.
Look up threaded inserts for plastics i.e. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=t...AQHIAQDiAwQYACBBiAYBkAYK&sclient=gws-wiz-serp
 
Can you burn the plastic? If so then the next questions are what are the forces on the rubber, what rubber, and what durometer.
 








 
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