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Hardinge HLV-H, Trying to get some info on this machine.

EBA

Plastic
Joined
May 1, 2022
First off, this is my first time posting here, my name is Ed I am from Canada and working as a mold Maker in a small family owned shop.
I recently acquired an Hlv-h, serial HLV-H-14739-T, I was wondering if any of you guys can help me as to when this machine was manufactured. It's in really good shape. Esp the bedways. Cross slides and carriage ways are very nice. Just a little right on the compound way. But I think it maybe the fact that the machine has been sitting a while. Any tips on how to prep tha machine would be much appreciated.
I've cleaned up the machine and is looking really good. Added some waylube for the bed and i havent gotten ro refill the transmission oil as its looking low.
Planning on taking the dials and handles out to clean them same with the tail stock.
The DRO is not getting power so gonna have to get that checked. I plugged it independently and it's showing E5 on the screen. It's an accurate master TP. I just downloaded the manual. Haven't read it yet. So any tips on setting that up would be greatly appreciated!
Just got the machine 2 weeks ago and I just powered it up this week. Everything works so far.
Thanks in advance guys!
 

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Look up replacing BiJur metering units. They are under the black plate on the back of the saddle. Remove the aluminum distributer and you may need to put a vise grip on the round cast iron plugs. Then slide a screw driver in the vise grip slot and pry out the rusty copper tube. Clean out the lube hole. Best to take off the saddle to blow out the lube holes to the saddle. I love Hardinge and have rebuilt several over the years!
 
The following is not likely to happen, but just so you are aware.

3 of the 4 copper lines on one of my machines came out with ease. Removing the 4th one was a nightmare. If the line breaks in the hole and you can’t reach it, you are pulling the saddle and drilling it out by drilling a small hole perpendicular to it (on your dovetail). You have a later model machine, that has the glued on hardened wear strips on the cross slide, and Teflon under the saddle so take those into consideration.

Before you go pulling the oil lines, I would check to see that they are flowing oil before trying to replace the lines.
 


I would have guessed as mid-seventies or newer. Get one of those shields to protect the taper.
Thanks Ron's, based on the other info from.the reply , seemed likely it's a 90's machine. And by the condition, it's low use but it has seen some work on it. And thanks for the recommendation, are you referring to the bad cover? Like what Babin uses?
 
Thanks Ron's, based on the other info from.the reply , seemed likely it's a 90's machine. And by the condition, it's low use but it has seen some work on it. And thanks for the recommendation, are you referring to the bad cover? Like what Babin uses?
The circular cone cover that covers the taper mount when not using a chuck.
 
The circular cone cover that covers the taper mount when not using a chuck.
Ah ok. Sorry misunderstood. There is a lots of stuff I want to get fir this lathe. And yes thanks for pointing that cover. Gonna add that to my list.
Where do you guys get parts? There is a cyclematic dealer close to where I am and also a sharp dealer as well. The cyclematic dealer was telling me years ago that he serviced a hlvh with parts from the 1118H. I'm gonna look into getting some bed covers, scrapers, and the leads crew cover.
 
This group site has a lot of files and resources. There should be one to age your machine by serial number. https://groups.io/g/hardinge-lathe

Judging by the pictures and paint in the pan, you got a late model, low use machine in good condition.
Thank you for the link Jonathan. Gonna look into it.
I was fortunate enough to get this locally at an Auction. I took a chance since it wasn't under. Power when I looked at it. But the backlash on the dials are very minimal and the ways look really good. Overall I am happy so far. Cleaning it up slowly
 
Look up replacing BiJur metering units. They are under the black plate on the back of the saddle. Remove the aluminum distributer and you may need to put a vise grip on the round cast iron plugs. Then slide a screw driver in the vise grip slot and pry out the rusty copper tube. Clean out the lube hole. Best to take off the saddle to blow out the lube holes to the saddle. I love Hardinge and have rebuilt several over the years!
Richard,
Thank you fir your input. Is the BiJur the usual part that needs to be serviced? This one seem to be still working. I've been pulling it up everyday ad moving the bed and there seem to be a film of oil on it. The carriage is moving nice and smooth as well. Just took the scale off ti clean the general area where the Bijur is.
I'll definitely refer to your suggestion when the time comes for me to open up that oiler.
 

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The following is not likely to happen, but just so you are aware.

3 of the 4 copper lines on one of my machines came out with ease. Removing the 4th one was a nightmare. If the line breaks in the hole and you can’t reach it, you are pulling the saddle and drilling it out by drilling a small hole perpendicular to it (on your dovetail). You have a later model machine, that has the glued on hardened wear strips on the cross slide, and Teflon under the saddle so take those into consideration.

Before you go pulling the oil lines, I would check to see that they are flowing oil before trying to replace the lines.
Thank you Chips.
What you said made sense. I will definitely take your advice. It's the reason sometimes I don't start taking stuff off my car..I don't want to break anything I'm not familiar in taking apart well.
The Bijur seems to be flowing. I.have been pulling it up everyday and moving the carriage..it seems to be working as there is a thin film of oil everytime.
 
Thanks guys for the tips and replies
I have been slowly working on getting some stuff done. I took the compound out as it didn't feel as good as I thought. The dial was slipping so I took it apart partially, end play was.still good, took the dials out and regressed the assembly, turns put I just needed to tighten the nut and everything was good when I put em back.
Took apart the scale for the DRO, as I wanted to clean out the general area on the carriage and found that the rubber guards are worn and cracked. I wonder if accurite, sells parts like that.
Right now I've got the lathe mostly cleaned up.
I'm.gonna need to get some parts like bed scrapers, leads crew cover, way covers, and the taper cover.
Where do you guys have succes getting after market parts?
As I mentioned, there is a Cyclematic and sharp dealer nearby and I might call then up.
I already got a parts list from Hardinge. So there is that already.
I'm not in a rush so I'm doing more research at this point
Haven't got the DRO working yet and upon seeing the worn rubber guards inside the x axis, I hope the z isn't cracking as well. I hope it works when I figure out how to set it up.
 

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I ordered directly from Hardinge. Tool holders, brake corks, nameplates. Beware of gear prices.
 
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