Help Me Get a 54yo Hyster S80B Forklift Healthy Again

[Palak]

We just purchased a 54 year old Hyster S80B forklift. We got it from a guy that purchased it at auction, but it didn't suit his needs, as it has hard tires and he needed something for dirt. It appears to have had a former life in a wood working plant, as the engine bay was/is filthy with fine dust.

The forklift works . . . okay. It is LPG powered, and starts up right away. The steering is very heavy, and is more like "herding" than steering. The brakes seem to be pretty bad. And it leaks hydraulic fluid, but we haven't yet determined from which cylinders (has 2-stage lift, backtilt, and sideshift). We only need the forklift for maybe 10-hrs a year, mostly moving machines around and loading/unloading the occasional truck. It was cheap and convenient, and we hope to add more years of productive life to old girl.

Right now, not sure how well she has been taken care of, and from preliminary checkup, some of the fluids don't register on the dipsticks, so we are not starting her up until we get all the lubrication and fluids up to date. She is a 1969 model -- we were able to find a service manual for this model, but the manual doesn't have great pictures or schematics, so we are hoping that you guys could help us out to make sure she gets the proper care. I will try to get pictures attached so you can see what we're dealing with.

The engine is a Continental F226 engine. I am not a mechanic, but know my way around general maintenance of an engine.

Questions:

1. The fluids that need to be changed or topped off, that I can identify, include motor oil, hydraulic oil, transmission oil, radiator coolant, and brake fluid? Anything else? Can's see any grease nipples, but are there typically areas to be greased on a forklift?
2. Can't 100% confirm that we know where the transmission fluid fill port is. There is a large dip stick/cap on the front right side of the bay, but no markings. Is this where trans fluid should be added?
3. She has a monotrol pedal. And I think that means it has a "power shift" transmission. However, the service manual only stipulates recommended transmission fluid for standard transmission (SAE 90 EP), and Hystamatic and Torque Converter ( Dexron ATF). If power shift the same as Hystamatic?
4. There are two fluid filters -- a Napa 1050 filter (for oil I think), and a 1068 filter next to the dipstick. This looks like it might filter transmission fluid? Can anyone confirm?
5. The brakes don't seem to work well. Assume it could be due to low fluid in master cylinder. Should I just open up large bolt on master cylinder, and add until full?
6. Hyster manual says to flush oil with "flushing oil". Is this still a thing? I saw elsewhere on internet that Hyster recommends adding seafoam as flushing agent. Anyone have experience with this?
7. Saw something about adding oil to felt wick in distributor and on "breaker arm pivot"?
8. Finally, it looks like there are a few gauges removed and switches added to the dashboard. One switch is broken off, and the old label says "brake" under it. Any idea what this could be?

Sorry for the wall of text. Appreciate any and all comments and help to make sure we don't add any additional wear and tear to the old girl.

 

[john.k]

The brakes never work ,without continuous attention.....just standard Wagner truck brakes ......The trans fluid will be ATF ,or hydraulic oil is also OK..the filler will be under a hole in the floor ,likley a breather cap with a dipstick .........the hydraulic tank filler will be near to the valve ,and another pressed tin breather cum cap with a dipstick,just like the tranny filler ..........there may be a large filter body down under the floor too.......which you can change if you like..............Ive had lots of H80s.and done a bit to S80s ,but never taken much notice of them...........If the steering is hard ,then the power boost is lacking .........does the steering wheel feel grunchy as you turn it ....the Ross steering box takes heavy diff oil in the mechanical part,but not the valve part ........the boost likely takes fluid from the hydraulic tank ,and will have a pump on the motor ........there is also a cylinder down under the motor connected to the steer axle ..........I suggest you jack up the machine and check the condition of the steer axle ......... the steering does have grease nipples ,and with machines working in dirt ,I used to grease the steering every day.

 

[john.k]

The switch with Brake may be for a Mico brake lock ,fitted in lieu of making the handbrake work.......these things have a habit of jamming on ,and are best removed ..........if you are of a mind to have working brakes ,then a handbrake will also be needed .

 

[Garwood]

I have a 1967 H80C.

These things are indestructible. Keep oil in it. Fix the leaks. Parts are very easy to find- They made a billion of them.

Of note- the reproduction shop manuals are absolute trash. They are just a hodge podge of old hyster papers that will do you no good.

If you need a shop manual spend the big bucks on an original.

 

[dkmc]

How do you know it's a she ?
Based on the nature of your questions, I'd say you should get ahold of someone that's more familiar with forklifts to help you onsite. Maybe a local forklift dealship would have a mechanic that'd be interested in making some bux on the side.

 

[Palak]

The brakes never work ,without continuous attention.....just standard Wagner truck brakes ......The trans fluid will be ATF ,or hydraulic oil is also OK..the filler will be under a hole in the floor ,likley a breather cap with a dipstick .........the hydraulic tank filler will be near to the valve ,and another pressed tin breather cum cap with a dipstick,just like the tranny filler ..........there may be a large filter body down under the floor too.......which you can change if you like..............Ive had lots of H80s.and done a bit to S80s ,but never taken much notice of them...........If the steering is hard ,then the power boost is lacking .........does the steering wheel feel grunchy as you turn it ....the Ross steering box takes heavy diff oil in the mechanical part,but not the valve part ........the boost likely takes fluid from the hydraulic tank ,and will have a pump on the motor ........there is also a cylinder down under the motor connected to the steer axle ..........I suggest you jack up the machine and check the condition of the steer axle ......... the steering does have grease nipples ,and with machines working in dirt ,I used to grease the steering every day.

Thanks much for the reply and info. Once I get fluids topped off, I will fire her up and look at the steering items you mentioned. Especially interesting to hear about the grease nipples on the steering. Maybe all she needs is a good lube.

 

[Palak]

I have a 1967 H80C.

These things are indestructible. Keep oil in it. Fix the leaks. Parts are very easy to find- They made a billion of them.

Of note- the reproduction shop manuals are absolute trash. They are just a hodge podge of old hyster papers that will do you no good.

If you need a shop manual spend the big bucks on an original.

I did locate an original service manual for this model (not sure of its year, however). Its in PDF, so if anyone needs a copy shoot me a message. Some places are even charging $200+ for these things. If anyone has a parts book/manual for this vintage, would love to see a copy, especially the lubrication guide.

 

[Palak]

The switch with Brake may be for a Mico brake lock ,fitted in lieu of making the handbrake work.......these things have a habit of jamming on ,and are best removed ..........if you are of a mind to have working brakes ,then a handbrake will also be needed .

Thanks. Never heard of that. I will pull the front plate in the next week or so and try to trace the wires.

 

[Palak]

BTW, I noticed that one of the hoist chains is slack and loose, while the other is tight when forks are resting on floor. I know I can take up the slack with the threaded chain anchor, but what would lead to this condition? You would think if it was chain stretch, it would have impacted both chains equally?

 

[Garwood]

I did locate an original service manual for this model (not sure of its year, however). Its in PDF, so if anyone needs a copy shoot me a message. Some places are even charging $200+ for these things. If anyone has a parts book/manual for this vintage, would love to see a copy, especially the lubrication guide.

I doubt it. Hyster doesn't even have a manual for these things. Hyster has a bunch of PDF's they say apply to these, but they don't. If you want to rebuild the transmission the original shop manual is the only thing with the assembly and pressure info.

I paid $400 for an original shop manual for mine.

 

[john.k]

I maintained a fleet of old Hysters working in a rough yard .....mostly H80s with dual wheels .......never had any kind of forklift manual ,ever ,and I been working on them for 50 years .

 

[Garwood]

I maintained a fleet of old Hysters working in a rough yard .....mostly H80s with dual wheels .......never had any kind of forklift manual ,ever ,and I been working on them for 50 years .

Do you know what each test port pressure should be on a Hystermatic?

If I'm going to own one awhile I want the book.

Apparently other people do too because they're pretty hard to find.

 

[john.k]

Never worried about pressures on small Hysters ....if the tranny drags in neutral or slips in drive,time for an overhaul .........I have a dozer thats supposed to have 300psi in the tranny,its down to around 150 ,still works OK ,good enough for me.

 

[DaveKamp]

Okay, so the switch, and the brakes, and the Monotrol system all fall in the same circle. It is NOT for a MicoLock, it's just connected to the transmission's torque converter 'dump' solenoid.

The Monotrol is a combination shifter and throttle. The transmission is either in forward, or reverse... there is 'no' neutral position... it is either trying to go forward, or backwards.

The brake pedal is a combination brake, and by virtue of a pressure switch, also has an 'electric' way of disengaging of the transmission...

The handbrake lever not only applies mechanical handbrakes, it also ELECTRICALLY disables the transmission... a switch in the handbrake drops a solenoid valve that dumps the torque converter.

When you step on the brake pedal, a pressure switch on the brake line disables the same circuit as the handbrake. That brake pressure switch is set to about 300psi... which is just a LITTLE MORE than what's necessary to start applying drag to the brakes. The engineering design theory is that you can drag the brakes while inching forward or backward, but once you apply any significant pressure that pressure switch trips, and the torque converter gets dumped... so in 'rythm', you use your left foot on the brake like it's a clutch... but this only holds true if the brakes actually WORK... and haven't leaked out all the fluid. They're usually dry.

The dash switch wasn't an OEM thing, it was a common SAFETY modification to every HxxH series Monotrol-equipped forklift that wound up causing nightmares to those plagued by incessant brake problems... mine included. When you're trying to control the forklift, and the brakes are being useless, you reach up and flip the switch to STOP the transmission from pushing you forward, or backwards, when you're trying to keep the engine from pushing you against all the braking you can muster... if you DON'T flip that switch, you'll be shifting between forward and reverse, alternately ramming things, trying to get the darned thing to stop moving and sit still.

You certainly CANNOT get it to steer well, or tilt the mast, or lift the carriage, if the Monotrol's lack of neutral is jerking you around... because the power steering pump usually needs some throttle to get the pump speed fast enough to respond at the steering wheel. If you're going slow, and trying not to ram things with the silly Monotrol/brakes not responding, you won't have squat for power steering assist.

The brakes? As John's explanation alluded... they suck. When they work, the shoes grab and dump your pallet's contents to the ground, and when they don't you're ramming the racks and smashing things with the counterweight.

When they were new, they worked better, but they all stink now.