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Help with adjusting lower wheel on a Powermatic 87

Tyrfing

Plastic
Joined
May 23, 2024
Location
Long Island
Hello Gents,

First post here, from what I've seen I've got high hopes.

So, I have an old Powermatic 87 that I just got running a few weeks ago, and I've been using a 1/2in blade just fine.

But, I just received a 1 in blade for resawing today, and I ran into a big problem.
The blade is more or less centered on the upper wheel, but the on the lower wheel the teeth are sticking out about 1/4in in the front.

Any advice on what I can do/how to adjust the lower wheel?

Thankful for any help...
IMG_6570.jpg
 
Gents, I feel so stupid.
It's prob not the lower wheel that's the problem. Its the blade guides!
The bearing on the blade guide in the back of the blade is too far forward for this 1" blade. (The 1/2in blade that was on before worked just fine.)

Problem now is, I don't see any way to adjust the blade guide in that direction...
But there must be a way, because the machine is rated for blades up to 1" width..
 
You can either move the bottom wheel forward, or the top wheel back.
I am not familiar with those specific model saws, so don't know what is easy.

Can it be assumed that the wheels are currently perfectly co-planar?
IOW, not skewed to each other.

smt
I figured out it's not the lower wheel that's the problem, but the blade guides won't allow the 1" blade to come far enough back.
And I don't see how I can adjust them.. (it's the type with a ball bearing contacting the back of the blade, and two guide steels holding the blade sideways..)
 
I figured out it's not the lower wheel that's the problem, but the blade guides won't allow the 1" blade to come far enough back.
And I don't see how I can adjust them.. (it's the type with a ball bearing contacting the back of the blade, and two guide steels holding the blade sideways..)
That saw my require different guide assemblies for the larger blade.
 
I have both an 81 and 87, but I've never used a blade wider than 1/2" on my 87. I doubt you can tension a 1" blade blade properly. Using a Starrett gauge with a 1/2" x .025" blade, it was necessary to completely bottom out the spring, and then crank the knob even more to meet the manufacturers tension recommendations, effectively using the welded frame of the saw as a spring.

If you want to stay with the 1" blade, you could try moving the lower wheel further out. Maybe you'll need to do the same with the upper wheel.

Gotta ask, what were you using for a resaw blade that was unsatisfactory,m and what were you trying to cut? I've been using a 1/2" 4tpi claw tooth blade with good results for years, but it needs proper tension and I take my time with the cut.
 
OK, I looked up model 87, and it was apparently sold as a metalworking bandsaw?

So they may well have not included guides for woodworking apps that would have wider adjustability?

Is this your saw?

It does not look like they give you much forward and back adjustment.
That is not a typical orientation for the back/blade thrust bearing for a wood saw, though common on metal saws.


Almost any guides can be retrofit, Carter is a popular set up largely because of micro-adjustability. Others are just as good albeit with a little less convenience to setting/adjusting.
 
PS, it looks like Richard was replying while i was typing.

To agree with him, i have found the best resaw blades for veneers on my 30" saw are some 1/2" wide, thin, claw-tooth about 4T that i bought a box of on eBay years ago. Prior to that i had always run 1-1/4" wide hardback bands with 2 or 3 TPI for the same task, and for sawing laminae and contour sawing hardwoods. The wide bands last longer and are more resistant to diverging. But with careful sawing, not forcing them, and tossing them as soon as they get a little dull, the 1/2" bands make better cuts and yield more veneers or laminae from a given thickness blank. I routinely re-saw material 10 - 12" and sometimes wider.

Richard IIRC there was some mention a while back, something to do with bimetallic irregular tooth bands that might be contrived to fit my saw?

How are you settling in to the new shop space?

smt
 
Regarding resawing, some are making veneers luthier stock from valuable boards and need to be very accurate and minimize kerf to get maximum yield. Some guitar sets can sell for $3K to $4K, getting an extra set justifies taking extraordinary measures. On the other hand, for ripping commodity lumber to get thinner stock, speed and economy become much more important. So much easier to respond to resawing questions if the op gives more information.
 








 
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