I have a rigid insert type holder of similar length to the flexible blade and it feels much different, the flexible blade really flexes, it's not the same feel at all despite both using the same rubber shoe. I am not disagreeing that a home built flex style unit can't be made similar or identical to the factory blades (better even), I'm just saying I would trust such a conclusion more if it was tested side by side or we had more details on the steel used by BIAX.Don't forget that the blade mounting includes that rubber piece which introduces compliance. I'm guessing the the difference in action and feel is more from the length difference than the holder flexibility itself. A short stiff holder for muscling off material and a longer one for finesse.
I suspect very much that the carbide would snap off before I could bend the factory blade. The question is, can you make a similar blade out of mild or annealed tool steel that have the same performance. I asked Mark to share the actual dimensions of the units he made, I was hoping he would be interested enough to test his tools similarly so we can determine if the amount of deflection will be similar to the factory blades. There's plenty of speculation (I'm as guilty as anyone) so why not get to the bottom of it?And I'd side with Mark in thinking material used for the holder is insignificant compare to geometry. I've made both hand scrapers and Biax blade holders from hot rolled steel and the only problem I've ever encountered was bending a narrow, long hand scraper by leaning on it too hard. So I just bent it back and went at it a little more gently.
He likely regrets asking the question at this pointOthers got the blade measurements before I got to my shop, so assume the OP has the info he needs?
The Tungaloys I have are quite stiff (and fairly short), although every Japanese scraping video I've seen seem to use shop made monstrosities that are used in ways that make me highly uncomfortable. Japanese style scraping form is borderline indecent. The Tungaloy inserts are top notch though, and still available. They also make a carbide taper spindle scraper which I think is really hard to find these days.Got to admit I disagree with some experts and prefer a stiffer hand scraper. Love my tubular Andersons. Yes, it’s easier when first starting to get decent results with a flexible handle, but once a guy learns muscle memory to start each stroke with minimal down force and end with same, all your energy goes to making chips, not bending the handle. Only downside is more frequent sharpening. Agree, geometry is key.
Blade looks good. What is "metric gauge plate"?I posted this on the other forum, but here it is for complete saturation:-
20mm x 3mm is what fits my BL40 and what I use for all my blades. Brazing/hard (silver) soldering a carbide blank onto the end of a bit of metric gauge plate makes a good blade.
That is weird. At 3000 grit you should be able to read the writing off the Florescence or LED tubes 12 feet up.... I use a shop-made slow speed grinder that takes 6" lapidary disks. Somehow using these cheap disks the tops of the carbide still don't come out looking like a sandvik 630 as far as the degree of polish .