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How to buy a 4 jaw chuck

Ecberry71

Plastic
Joined
May 12, 2019
Hello all. I recently bought and refurbished a 1953 Logan 1922 which is a 11” lathe. It came with an 8” 3 jaw chuck but I’d like to purchase an 8” 4 jaw chuck for it as well. I’m not doing precision work so I will be staying under $200. My question is, does anyone know what bore size and thread pitch Logan’s had back then? I measured 2.25” and 8 TPI but I just need to be sure. Also, what does all the nomenclature mean “in the box” when looking for a chuck? This is the one I am considering, do you all think it will fit my lathe? Thank you.

8" 4-JAW Lathe Chuck w. Independent Jaws w. 2-1/4"-8 Adapter semi-Finish#0804F0 8" 4-JAW Lathe Chuck w. Independent Jaws w. 2-1/4"-8 Adapter semi-Finish#0804F0: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement
 
Get one that is direct mount not needing an adapter plate. More rigid, more accurate and gives more room beyond the chuck jaws for longer work.
Bill D
 
I'd be worried about vibration with an 8" chuck on that lathe, especially a cheap one. Logan offered an 8" as an accessory for their larger and heavier lathes and while the 1922 may swing it, I'd generally want to stay with a 6" given the motor and build. Others here may feel more comfortable. Dave
 
I went from a 10" south bend to a 13 Sheldon. Both have a 2.25-8 spindle nose but, as Conrad Hoffman's chart shows, the register depth (F) is deeper in the Sheldon and I had to turn some of the threads out of my backing plates.

All the backing plates got a light facing cut to make sure they were perpendicular to the lathe axis. Most of the registers were good so I didn't mess with them, not too critical on the four-jaw or the Adjust-Tru anyway.

Lots of videos online on how to machine a back plate or you can look up some of the threads here which usually degenerate into tears and recriminations.

I'm in the 6" chuck camp too. Unless you know you need the 8" capacity on a regular basis, you can always use a face plate for onesie-twosies. 8" chucks seem to weigh twice as much as 6" and I've gone to some silly lengths to avoid switching over to the 8" beast. (The lathe came with a 10", I hope I never need it.)
 
Hello all. I recently bought and refurbished a 1953 Logan 1922 which is a 11” lathe. It came with an 8” 3 jaw chuck but I’d like to purchase an 8” 4 jaw chuck for it as well. I’m not doing precision work so I will be staying under $200. My question is, does anyone know what bore size and thread pitch Logan’s had back then? I measured 2.25” and 8 TPI but I just need to be sure. Also, what does all the nomenclature mean “in the box” when looking for a chuck? This is the one I am considering, do you all think it will fit my lathe? Thank you.

8" 4-JAW Lathe Chuck w. Independent Jaws w. 2-1/4"-8 Adapter semi-Finish#0804F0 8" 4-JAW Lathe Chuck w. Independent Jaws w. 2-1/4"-8 Adapter semi-Finish#0804F0: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

Logan Actuator is still around, and supporting their lathes. What they currently provide is made by Bison.

There is a reflector:

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How to buy a 4 jaw chuck

Step 1. Go to ebay
Step 2. Search for "4 jaw lathe chuck"
Step 3. On left side of screen look for New/used, click on "used"
Step 4. Search for a chuck that will fit your spindle, it might take a few weeks/months to find what you want, in your price range, patience is the key.

CME = China Machine Export, you get what you pay for.
 
Looked at a Chinese 4 jaw recently......completely unhardened,bar the tips of the inside edge of the jaws......slots in the body showing raw casting runout in places .....soft,soft ,soft ....everywhere.........wont last ten minutes ......Compared to the chuck Ive just taken off the old Swift.....forged steel body ,hardened all over ,scrapes but not cuts from HSS fouls......jaws file hard ,including threaded backs.....no loose jaws after 80 years.
 
A better chuck is worth $100 more, and money well spent. Any 4jaw might center a part to your indicator zero but wobble may exist. Even if a chi /or no name chuck runs true to wobble poor materials or heat treat may make it go bad in a year or a few.
 
For some reason ,one jaw of a set of four always comes loose in its mortice first......and generally it will be quite loose ,while the other three are still acceptable..of course this causes the jaw to cock in its slot and a cylindrical workpiece is loose about the heel ,not rigidly held,unless the jaw is turned so tight the workpiece is indented to full contact.
 
Expensive 4 jaws have replaceable mortices in the body ,and when workpieces are not held securely,the jaw and mortice piece can be replaced as a pair to restore the chuck to new spec.....Rather costly ,and generally restricted to power chucks.....However a method of repairing big 4 jaws uses the same idea to replace the worn parts of the chuck.
 
I'll add that from my experience, 4-jaw chucks are so simple that unless they have some terrible crash or are frequently used by an idiot, they'll last forever. That said, they're worth an investment. If you want to take a chance on one, go for a good used one of reputable brand. I've seen some budget import chucks that looked pretty, but had terrible fit out of the box.

I also think it's handy to have an oversized chuck as well. Something that takes the full swing of your lathe, but I wouldn't use it for general work unless you confidently check clearance with every set-up. My 16" Hendey came with a 15" 4-jaw.... and huge gouges out of the tails-stock ways where the jaws had either been set for too large a diameter, or they had worked loose, and started fly-cutting the ways.
 








 
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