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How to Clean a Cold Saw?

35 years ago we needed an anchor for a buoy in the lake. Picked up a blown short block at the junkyard and strapped it to a trailer. We we went to the car wash, put on our old raincoats and face shields, and burned a roll of quarters with soap and then rinse. Not a hint of oil sheen when we put it in the lake. Lots of funny looks at the car wash, though.
 
Zep Industrial Purple slightly diluted in a spray bottle before you go to the carwash. Crud will literally fall off. Do not get it on any aluminum panels, as the stuff is a strong base and will etch aluminum if left on for any length of time. Name plates, serial number tags etc- tape them over or remove them 1st. I've used this stuff on absolutely pig pen machines and its amazing. Gungy coolant tanks are no match for this stuff after you putty knife the crud out of the bottom. Wear gloves and don't breath the mist.
 
I finished cleaning, painting and reassembling the cold saw last weekend. Today I did a number of test cuts to be sure the blade was tracking properly. The first slug was about .006" thicker on the bottom than the top. I followed the instructions in the owner's manual and adjusted the tracking eccentric. It's now down to less than .001" difference between the top and bottom. I'm wondering if I can expect to lessen the difference any further, or whether I'll just be chasing my tail trying to get closer to .000"
 
Any machine that has used water soluble oil on it (coolant)
is easily cleaned with denatured alcohol. Like you
can buy at the paint store (HD, Lowes, etc.).

-Doozer
 








 
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