How would YOU clamp this part down?

[FirstAscent]

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some tips on how YOU would clamp this part down in a vertical mill. I'm still building up my tooling and currently only have one vise for securing parts. I'm OK purchasing whatever I need to help with this but also trying to think ahead on what would work for this and potentially whatever else I might run into in the future. Versatility is key, along with high quality.

The actual work being done is very simple, you can see the existing threaded hold circled in red. I'm simply relocating the hole (drill, form tap, chamfer) about an inch closer to the large bore (where the red dot is) then will mill the top edge flat since there is somewhat of an existing raised edge where my new hole will go.
I want to make sure everything is secured down tightly though. Couple different angles shown below so you can see what I'm working with.
Material is Aluminum.

Good opportunity to look into some additional filtering/clamps/etc which always come in handy.

Thanks!

 

[matthewlee]

Can you make a round boss for the eccentric bore and just clamp the swingarm to it?

 

[apoet]

I agree with Matthewlee, but I'd add that you can clock the assembly against a pin or boss on the fixture. The correct answer would depend on the qty you need to run.

 

[Gordon Heaton]

Assuming both sides of the large-hole boss are machined, I'd just set it on a riser(s) sufficient to clear the bend, set a t-nut and stud in the center of the big hole, lay a bar across and clamp it T-style. Machine work on the small hole will be very low stress, it will be steady enough. This assumes it's a one-off.
edit: I can't tell how big the part really is, but you can add a jack under the far end if you need to.

 

[eKretz]

Both good ways. For one part I'd personally use the same approach as Gordon. Higher quantities and fixturing starts to make sense.

 

[FirstAscent]

Thanks guys! yes this is only a personal project on my own motorcycle, so just one part.

I think Gordon's idea is the simplest least inexpensive option while still getting the job done. and yes both sides of the bore are machined.

Matthewlee's idea got me doing some google searching and came across Mitee Bite's ID expansion clamps that I could use to hold the eccentric bore. Although that would be nice, I don't think I'd ever have use for such a large ID clamp again but I could see their smaller options coming in handy in the future for sure so I'm glad I saw them.

 

[Tyrone Shoelaces]

The ability to set jobs up on the table as opposed to just putting everything in a vice is an essential skill for a machinist. When you’ve mastered that skill not much will cause you problems. Having a decent small clamping kit with clamps, screwed rods, tee nuts, washers and nuts etc plus parallels and shims, small screw jacks is essential.

Regards Tyrone.

 

[johnmontrose]

...lay a bar across and clamp it T-style.

If the new hole needs some kind of relationship to the centre of the big hole, it might be good to put the clamping bar at 45 degrees to the machine's axes so then you can pick up the centre easily.

 

[vonleyser]

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some tips on how YOU would clamp this part down in a vertical mill. I'm still building up my tooling and currently only have one vise for securing parts. I'm OK purchasing whatever I need to help with this but also trying to think ahead on what would work for this and potentially whatever else I might run into in the future. Versatility is key, along with high quality.

The actual work being done is very simple, you can see the existing threaded hold circled in red. I'm simply relocating the hole (drill, form tap, chamfer) about an inch closer to the large bore (where the red dot is) then will mill the top edge flat since there is somewhat of an existing raised edge where my new hole will go.
I want to make sure everything is secured down tightly though. Couple different angles shown below so you can see what I'm working with.
Material is Aluminum.

Good opportunity to look into some additional filtering/clamps/etc which always come in handy.

Thanks!
View attachment 383303
View attachment 383304

What kind / how big a vertical mill ?

 

[michiganbuck]

For one part I would make a build-up that would go behind directly opposite the boss between the part and table, use shims to tram/level the part face to .oo1 or what.
Use an edge finder to center/locate the big hole center and the alignment to the needed hole.
With hold downs holding then do the needed hole.

If a hole is needed in the mating part or there is already one there, I would assemble the whatever and transfer punch the location needed.

If a locator/probe is used out of the spindle, I would consider that a different-length drill (or what) could make the spot different, so I would be sure the mill tram was good so the new hole would be where I wanted

The build-up (fixture), perhaps some 123 blocks or what you have, strips of masking tape might make them still square enough and less slippery.

 

[FirstAscent]

The ability to set jobs up on the table as opposed to just putting everything in a vice is an essential skill for a machinist. When you’ve mastered that skill not much will cause you problems. Having a decent small clamping kit with clamps, screwed rods, tee nuts, washers and nuts etc plus parallels and shims, small screw jacks is essential.

Regards Tyrone.

Agreed! I'm new to CNC so still building up my tooling but yes having that knowledge will be key. I'll get there In the past the closest I've dealt with were simple drilling methods on my drill press but it was always flat items easy to clamp down and nothing obscure.

If the new hole needs some kind of relationship to the centre of the big hole, it might be good to put the clamping bar at 45 degrees to the machine's axes so then you can pick up the centre easily.

There is actually a small center point from the factory of exactly where my new hole needs to go (it's where my red dot is on the first image)... almost like the factory knew about this mod and planned for it. It allows more adjustment of the eccentric hub. But good point just in case, thanks for mentioning it.

What kind / how big a vertical mill ?

It's a Tormach 770 (don't judge me I need it to run on 110.)

For one part I would make a build-up that would go behind directly opposite the boss between the part and table, use shims to tram/level the part face to .oo1 or what.
Use an edge finder to center/locate the big hole center and the alignment to the needed hole.
With hold downs holding then do the needed hole.

If a hole is needed in the mating part or there is already one there, I would assemble the whatever and transfer punch the location needed.

If a locator/probe is used out of the spindle, I would consider that a different-length drill (or what) could make the spot different, so I would be sure the mill tram was good so the new hole would be where I wanted

The build-up (fixture), perhaps some 123 blocks or what you have, strips of masking tape might make them still square enough and less slippery.

Thanks! I just quoted another comment above, there is actually already a transfer punch location from the factory of exactly where my new hole needs to go so that makes it easy for locating. With that being said, the center point of the big hole is irrelevant and I would only need to align with the punch location.

I like your idea of using shims to tram/level the face, I do have test indicators for that.

For the mating part, no modification is necessary to it.

Actually I do have a question about drilling. It's an M12 x 1.25 thread. I have the tap and the correct size drill (11.5mm) for the form tap. What size would you recommend I pre-drill with instead of going straight in with the 11.5mm bit? I was thinking somewhere around 5-6mm.

 

[Chips Everywhere]

I'm assuming that you are looking to relocate the ABS/Speed sensor on this 848/1*98 swing arm for a wheel swap? Before you go machining the swing arm, why not not make new sensor plate on the hub? You can probably have one laser cut for less than $30.

For safety, I wouldn't go drilling any holes on your swing arm. I've seen 3 of these develop hair line cracks, luckily they all got replaced before failure.

 

[Gordon Heaton]

. . .What size would you recommend I pre-drill with instead of going straight in with the 11.5mm bit? . . .

My recommendation would be to spot-drill and then just go with the final size.

 

[Tyrone Shoelaces]

You can possibly teach yourself how to set up castings etc on the machine table but it’s best if you can find somebody to show you the ropes.
I was lucky when I was installing Hor bores etc. The operators I worked with were experts at set ups and most of what I know now I learnt from them.

Regards Tyrone.

 

[Clive603]

For an essentially identical job I used the bore to clamp the part around a suitable vertical pillar.

Not hard to make a foot and pillar to clamp to the table but I went a bit sophisticated with a sturdy base bored half way through so I could easily swop pillars for future jobs. Considering I've only used the pillar carrier twice in 20 years this may have been overthinking.

Clive

 

[michiganbuck]

My recommendation would be to spot-drill and then just go with the final size.

If the drill has a factory good sharpening.
For any hack sharpening that might drill oversize, then a pre-drill is good.

 

[FirstAscent]

I'm assuming that you are looking to relocate the ABS/Speed sensor on this 848/1*98 swing arm for a wheel swap? Before you go machining the swing arm, why not not make new sensor plate on the hub? You can probably have one laser cut for less than $30.

For safety, I wouldn't go drilling any holes on your swing arm. I've seen 3 of these develop hair line cracks, luckily they all got replaced before failure.

You know your bikes, awesome! It's a 1098 race bike. Good guess but not quite on the sensor, this relocates a pin for the rear brake caliper mount. The current location stops the eccentric hub from rotating back far enough to work with my preferred gearing and correct chain tension and wheel base. Relocating the pin allows the hub to rotate a little further, extending the swingarm length an extra 2-3mm. In its prime this was a common mod for race teams, which I can only assume is why there is a pre-spotted location for the exact location where the new hole needs to be.
But with that being said, this is the only option (aside from buying a longer swingarm) to give me the wheel base I need. Or remove the rear brake which I don't use anyway
Here is a better shot at the factory hole and spot drill, doesn't get much more clear than that haha.

My recommendation would be to spot-drill and then just go with the final size.

Easy enough, thanks!

You can possibly teach yourself how to set up castings etc on the machine table but it’s best if you can find somebody to show you the ropes.
I was lucky when I was installing Hor bores etc. The operators I worked with were experts at set ups and most of what I know now I learnt from them.

Regards Tyrone.

Past knowledge and experience definitely goes a long way, and I will definitely take advantage if that situation comes up. thanks for the advice.

 

[Chips Everywhere]

If its for a track bike, hand drill away (half joking). My track bike was held together by hopes and dreams and a lot of zip ties/safety wire.

 

[michiganbuck]

Very cool bike, zero to 60 in about 3 seconds

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[FirstAscent]

haha that's funny, because it's partly true. however, this bike is special to me, It was a looooong project I completely built from the ground up over 8 years. I purchased each and every component specifically, lots of goodies...Brembo, Ohlins, all bolts/axles Titanium, Carbon, Slipper Clutch. Nothing is stock on this bike, so I want to do it right, even the little things like this.