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Hydraulic Vertical Tubing Bender

Hammbosky

Plastic
Joined
Dec 13, 2014
I have been a regular to this forum and used a lot of information I found here for my own personal projects. I finally decided to become a member and share my experiences with everyone. I, like many of you, have spent countless hours researching the process, design, and build of a hydraulic tubing bender. It seemed cumbersome at first but it all started to come together. I'm good with CAD and have and engineering/design background which has helped. This thread is different in that it isn’t progressive. The bender is complete and in action. Ill add photos and answer questions as I have time.

Why did I choose to design a vertical tubing bender over a horizontal? The answer is simple... space savings. The likely hood of bending something that would hit a shop ceiling of 10' or even 8' was unlikely. Also the ability to go vertical would allow me to use a digital degree finder rather than a degree wheel.

I started the process by trying to learn about hydraulics. There are lots of sporadic sources for information on hydraulics but I found none specifically directed towards tube bending. I searched for different formulas that would enable me to design my bender to the following specs:
1. 2" OD x .250" wall 4130 chromoly steel
2. Bend 180°
3. Use as small of an electric motor that would meet my needs

Capacities / Calculations

It was complicated to find all the formulas for the job so I made my own excel calculator spreadsheet to help those who want to build a hydraulic tubing bender out. The intent is a one stop shop to choose the parameters to design your own bender and make inputs giving you an idea of what tubing size and thickness does to hydraulic pressure and horsepower based on hydraulic cylinder size and stroke. PM me and Ill email it to you.

Pump

Through my research I discovered that a 2 stage hydraulic pump commonly used in log splitter applications would be a perfect match for a tube bending application. The 2 stage pump allows for a smaller capacity horsepower motor to get the job done. The one I chose was a 2 stage 11gpm capacity. It is capable of 3000 psi but I didn’t want to operate anywhere close to those pressures. At a pre-set 780 psi, the pump goes from 11gpm flow to 2gpm. This allows for rapid speed up to 780psi and steps to the 2nd stage for larger capacity steel tubing using a smaller HP electric motor. To give you an idea, the bender I designed can bend 1.625" x .083" chromoly 90° in 6 sec at 290psi at 2.0HP. The same 1.625" x .083" chromoly bent 90° now takes 30 sec at 290psi but only 0.37HP.

AC Electric Motor

With my tube capacity requirements defined and the use of a 2 stage pump, a 2 HP motor was the choice. I chose to get a 220v motor over a 110v for lower amperage and longer life. The motor needed to be 3600 rpm to match the designed specs of the hydraulic pump.

Cylinder / Control Valve

I needed to be able to bend greater than 90° in a single stroke of the ram to account for tube spring back. With the swing arm having a center pivot (center of where die mounts) to the cylinder ram pivot point being 15.75", I used a series of arcs in CAD to determine the cylinder retracted and extended lengths. A 3.5" cylinder exceeded my max tubing capacity requirement with the stroke needing to be 24". I needed to be able to extend the ram and retract it therefore a dual action cylinder was my choice. With the pump constantly pumping while the motor is running, the hydraulic fluid needed to be an open flow system to keep the pump cool. This is where the valve selection became important.
The valve is a 4 way, 3 position directional control valve, lever actuated, tandem center (pressure open to tank with ports A & B blocked in the center position). The tandem center spool is primarily used with double acting cylinders. Spring centered (spool will return to neutral when the handle is released). The valve needed to meet or exceed the 11gpm and 3000psi requirements of the pump. I chose a valve that flows 12 gpm and has a max 4600 PSI operating pressure.

Reservoir

The reservoir was an area that needed to be closely researched. The hydraulic pump is kept cool by the fluid. I need to have a capacity that would allow for full extension of the cylinder, fluid in the lines and pump, and an excess to keep the system cool. I went with a 5 gallon capacity. I converted gallons to cubic inches and needed a particular width to be able to mount on the mainframe in front of the uprights. Knowing the length and width, I figured the height to meet the 5 gallon capacity.

Mainframe / Uprights / Swing Arm

I looked at the different brands/designs of benders and it quickly became obvious that the pro-tools style 105 was the most common. The die selection is the most comprehensive offered by any company at a price that I could afford. Now that I had a die design to fit my needs and budget, I had to figure out what the spacing was on the holes and what made the bender mainframe and swing arm hole spacing capable of using a wide variety of dies with different centerline radius's. I found a drawing that had the straight line spacing for each hole spaced off the center of the pivot pin. I went to work drawing up the swing arm and mainframe uprights in CAD. I worked out the math on the stresses that would be applied to the swing arm and main frame at my max capacity and chose to go over the minimum requirement for a long life. The mainframe is 3/4" steel plate and the swing arms are 1/2" plate. I added 1/8" doublers for added strength around the pin holes. I wanted to be able to use the bender sitting on a short roller shop stool. This allows me to sit and work at an eye level and keep the bender closer to the ground rather than the ceiling (the whole point in going vertical rather than horizontal). The uprights are 36" tall. The mainframe needed to house an electric motor, hydraulic pump, reservoir, cylinder, valve and filter. It also needed to be portable to move around the shop. I used steel swiveling caster wheels for ease of movement. Also I installed leveling feet for precise rotary bends. I mounted the reservoir on the front. The length of the mainframe was tailored to the hydraulic cylinder retracted length at an angle that allowed full extension of the 24" ram to pivot the 15.75" swing arm greater than 90°. I wanted the bender to look clean. I bent the support legs 90° to give clean lines. The enclosure is 16ga aluminum.

This isn’t much detail but enough to give a guy the thought process and level of detail required to design and build his own bender. The machine weighs just over 300lbs. It is a hoss that will last forever. I'm in the process of building another with a few upgrades and modifications to include a rotary indexer, a redesigned reservoir and going electronic with the valve and use a HMI display to control the ram movement using micro switches. Also in the works are 2 different endmill notchers and a full electronic rotary bender.















 
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Just a couple of observations, may or may not be a issue to you. A while back i had a similar tube bending thread. My upper limit is targeted at about 1" max and only soft mild steel thin wall tubes at that, hence power really was not a major game limiter for me. Equally i already have products line up for my bender so know the capacity needs i have. you dont really say just what your planning to do with it??

For me bending a complete 180 degree was a key requirement. Also so was the prevision for manderals in the future (have still to get to that product) I also need to copy other existing parts, hence going horizontal made it a lot easier to eye up. I also wanted open top, not the double hosfeild style frame. Makes it a lot easier to get complete loops off.

That said, i like the idea of a bigger bender on wheels, when you think about it threes no reason at all to tie them to the floor in one spot, thats a great idea, being able to go outside removes any height requirements instantly.

A rotory indexer on the pipe makes life a lot easier, even if your bending flat loops, being able to advance the stock a known amount and control its rotation makes life one hell of a lot easier + faster and limits scrap. Mines little more than a simple cart that runs up and down a piece of 2" box section. 5c indexer sits on top for now for shear simplicity. Some of the simple loops i have been bending, im simply feeding a complete 6mtr length of 1/2" tube in, every time i form a complete loop, lopping it of with a thin cutting disc in a 4.5" grinder, goes fast and very little waste. Also incredibly accurate too thanks to that carrage - rotation control. Can easily keep external dims over a complete 4 cornered bent rectangular loop sub 1mm in error. Which is way better than i was expecting.

My other requirement was to be able to bend small brackets - rods. Turns out the demand for that was way above what i was expecting, makeing 1/4" eyes on 3/16" bright rod has actually been so profitable it has paid back all the costs i incured in making it :-) You don't just have to use a pipe bender for pipe is what im trying to say. They bend rods and flats really well with the right dies :-)

Oh finally nice job on the paint, mines still in the nude as it were :-( Thats a really nicely finished bit of kit for a shop made machine.
 
Adama,

Every guy that has an interest in working with metal needs a tube bender! Ive learned that a man is only as good as his knowledge and tools. Arm yourself with knowledge and buy good tools. In my case, I really enjoy being challenged with the creation of tools. My list is long of tools I have looked at, wanted to buy but cant afford, and have looked at countless pics and read threads to design my own. I have them drawn up in CAD... in a que to build as I can afford them. Like you pointed out the bender is able to be moved and yess I considered wheeling it outside my shop if the ceiling was an issue. I put a 30' cord on it to have that capability. The indexer has been a challenge to design. With the 105 style die, the tube pivots on the lower die as it is being bent. I think I have this figured out by mounting a cradle under the lower die via a pin and stops that rest on the edge of the uprights not allowing the die to pivot. This will hold the tube horizontal to and parallel to the ground making an indexer possible. The second challenge Ive found is locating a hollow bore gear reducer that has a bore at least 2.5" and not massive in size and very expensive. I have a small bender that mounts in a vise for small stock like you speak of. It is very handy. Lastly, The powdercoat turned out really nice. I have miller welders and wanted to match the rest of my tooling. I put decals on it to prototype the finished product for the possibility of making them for hire should somebody be interested. Im very interested in automating the tools Ive designed and trying to learn the ropes...
 
Hammerbosky, yeah keeping the tube straight to be able to use a indexer or in my case a mandrill is one of the harder parts, took me 2 goes to get a setup for mine that allowed keeping the tube in a dead straight alignment with the stops + a follower arrangement that will work with the planned mandrill. Secret seams to be to support the tube over at least 4 dia in length, like this it won't flex and bow - distort enough to come out of line.
 
Adama, did you make your own indexer and slide? If so do you have a build thread or pics? Curious as to how the stops work and the gearbox used.
 
Looks like great work, will last for many years. I have wanted one for a long time but never seem to find time work in the shop too make it pay. I have been looking for an on off switch as you are using and have been unable to find one. Would you please let me know where I may be able to purchase one. Thank you. John
 
Nice work! What size pins are you using in your dies? I ran into an issue bending 0.188" wall 4130 in my JD2 model 4 where I bent all the pins in it. I had wrongly assumed their benders were rated for 2.5" by 0.120 DOM and thought I was good...their ratings are for ERW tube. I ended up making pins out of long Grade 8 bolts and haven't had an issue since.
 
I bought some 1.25, .875, .750 4130 solid stock that i used for the pins. I cut to length and welded machine bushings (look like washers) with same ID as stock to the end of the pin. 2 bushings per pull pin to make a grip and 1 bushing per main pivot pin and cylinder ram pin that are not pulled out often. A pic of the pins is posted above.
 
Looks like very nice design and execution of the same. An actual short video of the machine making a bend would help clear up some of the fuzzy details of how everything moves.
 
I bought some 1.25, .875, .750 4130 solid stock that i used for the pins. I cut to length and welded machine bushings (look like washers) with same ID as stock to the end of the pin. 2 bushings per pull pin to make a grip and 1 bushing per main pivot pin and cylinder ram pin that are not pulled out often. A pic of the pins is posted above.

Nice. I believe JD2 just uses 1018 CR for theirs. They're definitely soft.
 
Looks like very nice design and execution of the same. An actual short video of the machine making a bend would help clear up some of the fuzzy details of how everything moves.

http://youtu.be/2N4S3Z7232c

First run with bender. I was so excited to try it out that I didn't grease the pivot pins as you can hear them squeal as the ram extends. The first issue noted, the pro tools 105 die has an adjustment bolt with tab that extends below the lower die preventing a 180 deg bend in 2 strokes. The tab on the lower dies is of no use to me with the bender being vertical. I cut the tabs off the dies and now don't have the restriction. The tube is 1 5/8" x .083 chromoly. Only 290 psi required. Right on my predicted psi based on calculations. Another thing to note, psi is constant based on load. The pump is putting out 11 gpm in the open flow system. When the stick of the valve is moved forward (extending) the pilot valve opens to the extend port and proportionally closes the free flow port back to reservoir. The gpm flow to the ram is based on the amount of movement on the valve lever. You control the speed of the ram extension/retraction by the amount of forward/rear motion on the lever. If I pushed full forward allowing a full 11 gpm, a 90 deg bend would take 6 seconds with material of this size. Instead a lesser amount is used for the precise control to a predetermined bend angle to include spring back.
 








 
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