gustafson
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2002
- Location
- People's Republic
That's interesting they look so similarHardinge/Sjogren don't use a hammer wheel, it's a planetary gear reduced setup. JacobsFlex rubber collet chucks use the hammer setup.
That's interesting they look so similarHardinge/Sjogren don't use a hammer wheel, it's a planetary gear reduced setup. JacobsFlex rubber collet chucks use the hammer setup.
That's interesting they look so similar
So the Sjogren features list shows that they work with a variety of collets. Does that mean they can vend you a chuck that will work with the collet of your choice, or that one chuck will work with any of them?
Handwheel actuation for easy open and close
- Utilizes standard 2J, 5C, 3J and 22J collets
- Versatile solutions for milling, grinding, and turning
- For stationary and turning operations
- Original sjogre (sho-grün) system
- 5C handwheel diameter = 9.000’’
- J Style handwheel = 10.000’’
- 7.000’’handwheels available upon request
- D-11 Mounts available upon request
Only lathe I used a Sjogren/Hardinge type on didn't have enough drag on the spindle to hold it in place while you opened and closed it. Had to change to a slower speed, or yank on the wheel to use it.
My Graziano 12S came with a Royal lever closer. Problem with it, the morse spindle adapter is too short to easily reach with normal turning tools. And it's an extended adapter. A 'D' mount and longer draw tube are on my list for 'someday'. The other is to cut a hole thru the rear cover so the bracket doesn't need to be removed to open it. I regularly need it open for setting up rifle barrels.
Hence the chuck key activated Bison 5c ...
I made a speeder handle for cranking the collet in/out.
Ohhh, yes! I have a 22J Sjogren. Collet capacity max is 2.25". Every now and then I see a 35J collet on eBay. Those are good up to 3.5".The J collet series go quite a bit larger than 5C. I think 2J max is 1⅜" and 3J is max 1¾".
Place another piece of stock at rear of collet, it will function precisely the same with what you're holding as a 5CER's are fine for some stuff, but if you need to grip on a small section that doesn't pass through the collet, they don't work. With a 5C you can grip on 1/8" if you need to.
It will, but its one more thing to make or find, and its a royal pain in the butt to get it there and keep it there especially if changing parts a lot. When I end up gripping short its usually on a step from a larger piece so 'same size' stock probably isn't real handy nearby.Place another piece of stock at rear of collet, it will function precisely the same with what you're holding as a 5C
if you are going to go to that effort, why not just swap out for a proper collet setup? for a one off, put the hex collet block in the 6 jaw rear nut and all. for more, take off the chuck and setup for collets...??? after all it is a camlock so 30 seconds or so..Make a long draw tube like you’d use with typical 5c spindle adapter but use it with the collet block held in your chuck. A little harder to reach on a lathe your size but still manageable.
For me it is not the time per se, but the weight in handling a larger chuck. since unlike a standard 5C rig, an extended collet block nut would not require bearing on the spindle other than for rough concentricity, it would not be that much work. But yeah, I don't think I would bother. Setting the collet block against the face of the jaws with a scale or parallel would be close enough for anything that is close enough to use a collet block in the jawsif you are going to go to that effort, why not just swap out for a proper collet setup? for a one off, put the hex collet block in the 6 jaw rear nut and all. for more, take off the chuck and setup for collets...??? after all it is a camlock so 30 seconds or so..
My Whacheon has an A series spindle nose which makes it a pain to change a 12” chuck on. And then find an A series collet chuck that isn’t designed for a power drawbar. Some of the common ones (hardinge) have to be disassembled to get to the mounting bolts.if you are going to go to that effort, why not just swap out for a proper collet setup? for a one off, put the hex collet block in the 6 jaw rear nut and all. for more, take off the chuck and setup for collets...??? after all it is a camlock so 30 seconds or so..
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