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just powered up new to me Hercules Ajax 14x60 with RPC. having a problem.

devrep

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 30, 2019
machine is 5hp, 230V, 3 phase. I'm confident I wired the phase converter correctly and I'm getting correct voltages at all 3 legs in the phase converter and inside the lathe at the connection block. when I turn on the lathe, I get a click in the back of the machine, can't see where it's coming from when I'm in front hitting the on button but assume it's one of the mag switches? I think this is normal. but when I move the lever into forward or reverse the motor starts to turn and then this 5-button breaker (or whatever it is) pops (all 5 square buttons pop out), the power goes out and the brake stops the motor. the fuse in the white ceramic holder right of the 5-button box tests good. the brake solenoid seems to be working.
PXL_20240502_002925537.MP2.jpg

after the first few times it did this (it resets every time I hit the on button), I removed the 4 V belts that drive the gearbox to isolate the motor. when I push down on the brake arm to release the brake, the motor pulley spins effortlessly and smoothly by hand, making no noises. what is strange is that twice the motor started and ran beautifully for 30 seconds or so until I moved the lever to brake. now it just seems to want to trip that breaker (not sure it's a breaker) every time I push the on button.
I know nothing about this so any ideas would be greatly appreciated. oh, the machine was purchased from the Florida State University research machine shop by the guy I bought it from. he never got to use it as his shop space plan fell thru and his wife got pissed so it sat under 2 tarps on a trailer for a couple of months. maybe there are some contacts I need to clean somewhere? no idea.
PXL_20240501_213926305.MP.jpgPXL_20240427_161800210.MP.jpgPXL_20240428_224934650.MP.jpg
 
All control items should run from the "pass-through" legs of the power, not from the RPC generated "stinger" leg (generated leg).

May not be the problem, but when in doubt check everything, and "fix what you know is wrong".
 
I'm confident I wired the phase converter correctly and I'm getting correct voltages at all 3 legs in the phase converter and inside the lathe at the connection block.
You will have to get a load running off the American Rotary to know what the real voltages.

1. What model/size is the American Rotary?
2. Provide complete electrical information on lathe including part numbers.
 
American rotary ADX 10hp, which is what they recommended. not sure what you mean by part numbers. do you mean solenoids, transformer and the oil pump?
PXL_20240425_192010025.MP.jpg
 
the voltages I'm getting no load from the RPC are:
243-245V
245-249V
245-248V

voltage at the house panel of my shop is 246-247V.
voltage at the house panel of my home about 150 feet away from the shop is 250-251V.


power for the shop is fed from the house panel in my home. all my 240V single phase machines are operating normally.

wish I had another 3-phase machine to load up and test the RPC.

power at my house panel dropped down to 244 volts in the afternoon. the power company sent a line guy out and he said at times of low use it can go up to 250V. living 8 miles from what used to be the Crystal River nuclear powerplant (it's natural gas now) can affect the voltage also they said. normal to them.
 
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You really ought to trace the "manufactured leg" from the RPC and make sure it is not connected to controls. "Switching the wires around" may or may not move the manufactured leg off the controls. Check and make sure.
 
American rotary ADX 10hp, which is what they recommended. not sure what you mean by part numbers. do you mean solenoids, transformer and the oil pump?
2. Provide complete electrical information on lathe including part numbers.

electrical information: anything a wire connects to.
 
Sounds like there is an electric brake on the spindle AND you are sending it the manufactured leg. Try switching the legs from the RPC
the brake is on the end of the motor and actuated by the solenoid in the lower right. yes, I need to clean this out, it's a mess. (: wonder if the brake linings were asbestos in 1967?
PXL_20240502_183935486.MP (1).jpg
 
You really ought to trace the "manufactured leg" from the RPC and make sure it is not connected to controls. "Switching the wires around" may or may not move the manufactured leg off the controls. Check and make sure.
honestly, this is a little complex for my 70-year-old brain (bad excuse I know). I made up a new SO cord into the machine as the old one was a mess. the 3 legs go into the left end of the wiring block, then go up into the 2 (I assume) mag switches. the manufactured leg is the red wire.
PXL_20240502_184001978.MP (1).jpg
 
wasn't able to do anything with this machine today. had a Dr appt and had to put new coils on my zero turn. living in florida, if you can't mow you will need a combine harvester in a week or 2 (: have 2 1/2 acres to mow every week or 2, depending on the rains.

here is the wiring diagram. there is a lot I don't understand. a number of abbreviations used are not listed in the key. down at the bottom middle is the power coming in, labeled R,S,T, which I guess is Asian for L1, L2, L3 or T1, T2, T3. it shows the connection block, and the power goes from that up to the left-hand mag switch. from the left mag switch, looks like it goes to a thermal overload relay and then to the motor. I assume the mag switch is triggered by the start button. I don't see the thermal overload relay in my photo.
PXL_20240502_213511183.MP2.jpgPXL_20240502_184001978.MP (1).jpg
 
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honestly, this is a little complex for my 70-year-old brain (bad excuse I know). I made up a new SO cord into the machine as the old one was a mess. the 3 legs go into the left end of the wiring block, then go up into the 2 (I assume) mag switches. the manufactured leg is the red wire.
View attachment 438252
What is the part number for that block with a Fuji label. Looks to me like a forward/reverse control. See how the red and black wires are swapped.

Can you power the lathe with no motor running. The move your fwd/reverse switch back and forth. Do you hear a clunk sound each time?

Don't worry about it. After a little study for a few days it will not be complex. And R, S, T is pretty common in power electronics literature.
 
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From looking at the diagram you posted, and assuming that the wiring has not been changed from that, the pass-through wires should go to "R" and "T", with "S" being the generated leg.
 
From looking at the diagram you posted, and assuming that the wiring has not been changed from that, the pass-through wires should go to "R" and "T", with "S" being the generated leg.
I will look at this in the morning. thanks!
 
What is the part number for that block with a Fuji label. Looks to me like a forward/reverse control.
Can you power the lathe with no motor running. The move your fwd/reverse switch back and forth. Do you hear a clunk sound each time?

Don't worry about it. After a little study for a few days it will not be complex.
will see if it has a part number. not sure how to power the lathe bypassing the motor. don't want to fry anything as I don't know what the hell I'm doing. I'm good at rebuilding ICE engines, especially 2 strokes, but all these electrical components are over my head.
 








 
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