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Lathe turret clearance

SeymourDumore

Diamond
Joined
Aug 2, 2005
Location
CT
Well, you could very easily roll your own adaptor.

Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Not really Ox.
The size differences are so large that the drawbar adapter ( the threaded part ) of the chuck has to be separate from the chuck itself, and it will have to be
captive by the taper adapter.
There is a reason they don't exist.
 

chad883

Cast Iron
Joined
Jan 12, 2012
Location
indiana, usa
Not really Ox.
The size differences are so large that the drawbar adapter ( the threaded part ) of the chuck has to be separate from the chuck itself, and it will have to be
captive by the taper adapter.
There is a reason they don't exist.

I wish someone would have told me this before I did it. I am running a 8" chuck on my Mori SL-25Y that has an A2-8 mount.

I had to make an adapter for the drawtube also.
 

Ox

Diamond
Joined
Aug 27, 2002
Location
West Unity, Ohio
Well, you could very easily roll your own adaptor.
Only catch is that it will chew up an additional 1.5" (?) of daylight.
On the flip side tho - the smaller chuck may be about that much shorter too?

A2 adaptors are not rocket science.


With that said tho - once your tools get past the Z length of the smaller chuck - they will still need to clear the spindle casting behind it.
The adaptor may not be bigger than the chuck tho?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox


I just quick checked the bolt pattern on my 10" chuck, and it looks like the bolts will fit inside an 8" diameter, so no worries there.

Both - my 8" Hardinge and my 10" Kit chucks are 4" thick, so add 1.5" (?) adaptor and you have 5.5" before you get to anything bigger'n 8".

Again - you doo however lose that adaptor thickness, which apparently is NOT made up via the smaller chuck.



Edit:

I guess there is no reason that the adaptor couldn't be 1" thick.
It would still be 1.5" total - incl the male taper, but that doesn't add to the daylight value.


---------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 

SeymourDumore

Diamond
Joined
Aug 2, 2005
Location
CT
I wish someone would have told me this before I did it. I am running a 8" chuck on my Mori SL-25Y that has an A2-8 mount.

I had to make an adapter for the drawtube also.

I'm not asking you to take your chuck off to show the adapter, but I can't picture how you did it...
I am holding a threaded drawtube adapter for a Royal 5C collet chuck with an A2-8 mount.
This adapter is larger than the taper end on the A2-6 ...
What am I missing?
 

SeymourDumore

Diamond
Joined
Aug 2, 2005
Location
CT
You are puting a smaller tube into a bigger hole, not the other way around.


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Opposite Ox, it is the other way around!
Bigger tube ( A2-8 drawtube ) + an internally threaded adapter into a smaller hole ( A2-6 taper )
 

Ox

Diamond
Joined
Aug 27, 2002
Location
West Unity, Ohio
I dissagree.
I obviously don't know what you have there, but the 3jaw chucks and collet chucks that I have here for my CNC lathes, all have male threads.

Meaning that my draw tubes have female threads.

A smaller chuck would need a bushing - for my equipment.


-----------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 

Ox

Diamond
Joined
Aug 27, 2002
Location
West Unity, Ohio
Crickie - worst case is that you make your own draw tube.
DOM isn't THAT expensive that you can't pony up for 4' of 3.25 OD x .500 wall and send it to your C/L grinder chum around the corner....



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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 

Ox

Diamond
Joined
Aug 27, 2002
Location
West Unity, Ohio
I have 1 that has that way too.

But - again - if that;s the biggest issue, Mr. Dumore is Shirley capable of making a draw tube that will work.
Even if it involves trashing the OEM tube and mod'ing that.

Then when you buy a chuck, order it for an external thread.
They have several different shanks to put on them.
Tell them that you have a Hardinge T51. (1990's) (for an 8" chuck)

I mean, come_on man....
Outside the box!


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A Factory Tool is a Good Place to Start!
Ox
 

Ox

Diamond
Joined
Aug 27, 2002
Location
West Unity, Ohio
I just skimmed a calipers over the (OD) threads for the 3 jaw for the Hardinge T51 setting on the flat spot, and it read 2.355, which I ass__u_me is prolly 60mm?

That gets you an 8" chuck with a 2.0x" through hole.


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 

SeymourDumore

Diamond
Joined
Aug 2, 2005
Location
CT
I just skimmed a calipers over the (OD) threads for the 3 jaw for the Hardinge T51 setting on the flat spot, and it read 2.355, which I ass__u_me is prolly 60mm?

That gets you an 8" chuck with a 2.0x" through hole.


------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Interesting ...
Perhaps that is the reason why some of the machines ( current models ) with the very same A2-6 nose have a 2" through capacity, while others are 2.5"..
Them 2" machines might all have internal drawbar threads and the 2.5" ones are external....

In that case though, there should be a way to make step-down nose adapter for internally threaded drawtubes...
 

Ox

Diamond
Joined
Aug 27, 2002
Location
West Unity, Ohio
I have 1 that has that way too.

But - again - if that;s the biggest issue, Mr. Dumore is Shirley capable of making a draw tube that will work.
Even if it involves trashing the OEM tube and mod'ing that.

Then when you buy a chuck, order it for an external thread.
They have several different shanks to put on them.
Tell them that you have a Hardinge T51. (1990's) (for an 8" chuck)

I mean, come_on man....
Outside the box!


-----------------------

A Factory Tool is a Good Place to Start!
Ox



My mistake:

Both my 2" and 2-5/8" through capacity Hardinge A2-6 spindled machines have tubes with female threads and collet/chucks with male threads.

I see no reason that one is different than the other?
(strength wise)



And seriously - if you did buy a machine that you was to modify, and let;'s say that you went with the Hardinge T51 spec, from that day on, anything that you ordered for it - you could just spec that lay-out. You would never need to go back to OEM.


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 

BOB-OO

Aluminum
Joined
Dec 5, 2010
Location
NE PA
The Integrex is great idea. Certainly solves a lot of problems.

They are more complex, expensive, big, slower tool change and most likely less accurate then a conventional lathe. Still awesome machines but theres a reason this style machine hasnt replaced the conventional cnc lathe.

Integrex's are awesome machines, the downside is cost. I'm waiting on a new one 11 months. My 22year old machine can run all day +/-.0001" turning, little more loose milling. But you can buy 3 new Yaxis lathes for the same price + tools. The single biggest advantage is every part is machined complete-no second ops/2nd setup ever. Its not as rigid as a bridge mill, but right there with a typical 40 taper c frame (all mill/turn tools are dual contact-capto/hsk/km). Like every machine some year/types are better then others, but it has been extremely reliable even through a few "oopsies". It is alot more complicated (mechanicals&programming)and what you lose on chip to chip tool change time you gain in having the tools you need sitting in the changer. Outstanding for prototype, complicated multi setups, not my 1st choice for simpler turn only because its too expensive. I've never been down for more then an hour or two except when we sent a spindle out for rebuild. I'm sure it would do what you need but its most likely NOT the most cost effective solution. Older used units are very cheap - I wouldn't buy used without a good indy repair person doing a full geometry check pre purchase. Just my $.02.
 

Fancuku

Cast Iron
Joined
Dec 7, 2018
AT work we have a late 90s to early 2000s Hitachi Seiki HT23J with 10 tool stations and KV40 holders. It has a 10" chuck and we don't have to stagger the OD/ID tools.
I made a quick video of it.

 








 
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