What's new
What's new

Lathe turret clearance

Seymour, can I ask why the reluctance to go up a size on the machine and spec with 8" chuck?

Footprint, spindle speed... - are there obstacles beyond the obvious financial aspect?
 
Distance from (lower turret) tool tip to main turret tool tip is a long way.
I wonder how many people punched a hole in the metalwaork behind the chuck while turning with the lower turret....!
Interesting concept tho


I believe that most of those type machines have an extended pocket above for the long tools.


-----------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
Seymour, can I ask why the reluctance to go up a size on the machine and spec with 8" chuck?

Footprint, spindle speed... - are there obstacles beyond the obvious financial aspect?

Gregor, 2 reasons.
First, typically the 8" and 10" machines are only different in spindle bore size. The turrets are either the same on both, or the 10" version offers a 10 station turret.
Second, there is no way to downsize a chuck, only up. IOW you cannot get a typical 10" machine with an A2-8 spindle taper and put an 8" chuck on it.
There is no such adapter in existence as the interface differences are too large.
 
Well, you could very easily roll your own adaptor.
Only catch is that it will chew up an additional 1.5" (?) of daylight.
On the flip side tho - the smaller chuck may be about that much shorter too?

A2 adaptors are not rocket science.


With that said tho - once your tools get past the Z length of the smaller chuck - they will still need to clear the spindle casting behind it.
The adaptor may not be bigger than the chuck tho?


-----------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
Well, you could very easily roll your own adaptor.

Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Not really Ox.
The size differences are so large that the drawbar adapter ( the threaded part ) of the chuck has to be separate from the chuck itself, and it will have to be
captive by the taper adapter.
There is a reason they don't exist.
 
Not really Ox.
The size differences are so large that the drawbar adapter ( the threaded part ) of the chuck has to be separate from the chuck itself, and it will have to be
captive by the taper adapter.
There is a reason they don't exist.

I wish someone would have told me this before I did it. I am running a 8" chuck on my Mori SL-25Y that has an A2-8 mount.

I had to make an adapter for the drawtube also.
 
Well, you could very easily roll your own adaptor.
Only catch is that it will chew up an additional 1.5" (?) of daylight.
On the flip side tho - the smaller chuck may be about that much shorter too?

A2 adaptors are not rocket science.


With that said tho - once your tools get past the Z length of the smaller chuck - they will still need to clear the spindle casting behind it.
The adaptor may not be bigger than the chuck tho?


-----------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox


I just quick checked the bolt pattern on my 10" chuck, and it looks like the bolts will fit inside an 8" diameter, so no worries there.

Both - my 8" Hardinge and my 10" Kit chucks are 4" thick, so add 1.5" (?) adaptor and you have 5.5" before you get to anything bigger'n 8".

Again - you doo however lose that adaptor thickness, which apparently is NOT made up via the smaller chuck.



Edit:

I guess there is no reason that the adaptor couldn't be 1" thick.
It would still be 1.5" total - incl the male taper, but that doesn't add to the daylight value.


---------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
I wish someone would have told me this before I did it. I am running a 8" chuck on my Mori SL-25Y that has an A2-8 mount.

I had to make an adapter for the drawtube also.

I'm not asking you to take your chuck off to show the adapter, but I can't picture how you did it...
I am holding a threaded drawtube adapter for a Royal 5C collet chuck with an A2-8 mount.
This adapter is larger than the taper end on the A2-6 ...
What am I missing?
 
You are puting a smaller tube into a bigger hole, not the other way around.


---------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Opposite Ox, it is the other way around!
Bigger tube ( A2-8 drawtube ) + an internally threaded adapter into a smaller hole ( A2-6 taper )
 
I dissagree.
I obviously don't know what you have there, but the 3jaw chucks and collet chucks that I have here for my CNC lathes, all have male threads.

Meaning that my draw tubes have female threads.

A smaller chuck would need a bushing - for my equipment.


-----------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
Crickie - worst case is that you make your own draw tube.
DOM isn't THAT expensive that you can't pony up for 4' of 3.25 OD x .500 wall and send it to your C/L grinder chum around the corner....



-------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
I have 1 that has that way too.

But - again - if that;s the biggest issue, Mr. Dumore is Shirley capable of making a draw tube that will work.
Even if it involves trashing the OEM tube and mod'ing that.

Then when you buy a chuck, order it for an external thread.
They have several different shanks to put on them.
Tell them that you have a Hardinge T51. (1990's) (for an 8" chuck)

I mean, come_on man....
Outside the box!


-----------------------

A Factory Tool is a Good Place to Start!
Ox
 
I just skimmed a calipers over the (OD) threads for the 3 jaw for the Hardinge T51 setting on the flat spot, and it read 2.355, which I ass__u_me is prolly 60mm?

That gets you an 8" chuck with a 2.0x" through hole.


------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
I just skimmed a calipers over the (OD) threads for the 3 jaw for the Hardinge T51 setting on the flat spot, and it read 2.355, which I ass__u_me is prolly 60mm?

That gets you an 8" chuck with a 2.0x" through hole.


------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Interesting ...
Perhaps that is the reason why some of the machines ( current models ) with the very same A2-6 nose have a 2" through capacity, while others are 2.5"..
Them 2" machines might all have internal drawbar threads and the 2.5" ones are external....

In that case though, there should be a way to make step-down nose adapter for internally threaded drawtubes...
 








 
Back
Top