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LISLE drill grinder 91000 parts help

86turbodsl

Cast Iron
Joined
Aug 12, 2004
Location
MI, USA
I am looking at a lisle 91000 locally and there doesn't appear to be a diamond dresser for it. The rest looks to be there. I called the company and of course, there are none available. Does anyone know of a source for them, or on the off chance someone has one, can get me dimensions and maybe i can make my own?

Thanks
 
I am looking at a lisle 91000 locally and there doesn't appear to be a diamond dresser for it. The rest looks to be there. I called the company and of course, there are none available. Does anyone know of a source for them, or on the off chance someone has one, can get me dimensions and maybe i can make my own?

Thanks
Isn't it just a 3/8 or whatever dia. nib? They're available from all the machine tool stores.
 
I made one for mine out of a piece of scrap, basically turned a piece to fit in the turrret and drilled a hole in it to hold the diamond with a set screw. Very low tech and required very little thought
 
I bought a Lisle with a blown motor. I fit a new motor to it and made a new wheel adapter and wheel guard. Now I can run 6" x 1" wheels.

The Lisle can produce a good drill point but in my opinion is the least user friendly drill grinder ever made.
 
I used to buy Lisle parts, wheels, and those little stamped steel indexing fingers, from MSC.

But as Ray said, when you get it see what size hole it has to hole the diamond and buy a dresser nib to suit, they should just fit in the hole.
 
I got the Lisle. It's in beautiful condition. The only thing it really needs is the stamped finger deal. Mine has been dragged across the grinder wheel. Does MSC still carry those? I don't think Lisle has anything left on these.
 
You can call MSC at 1-800-645-7270. Tell them the model # and ask them.
That part is very simple, buy a small amount of blued steel shim stock and make your own. Use a dremel tool and some patience to grind to the scribed line you make from the original sample you have, if the original is dubbed off at the end just guess what it must have looked like and scribe a line to grind to. This would take maybe 20 minutes.
 
I bought the stamped fingers directly from Lisle about 2 years ago. They did have some other parts in stock as well.

I got the Lisle. It's in beautiful condition. The only thing it really needs is the stamped finger deal. Mine has been dragged across the grinder wheel. Does MSC still carry those? I don't think Lisle has anything left on these.
 
I'll call em up today and see. Alternately, if anyone has an intact one, i might ask for them to make a tracing. I agree it would be easy to make, just need the outline. I'll try and attach a photo of mine. It's pretty mangled.
990cdbf6375316bdbea2483d6dda4d4c.jpg
 
I got the Lisle. It's in beautiful condition. The only thing it really needs is the stamped finger deal. Mine has been dragged across the grinder wheel. Does MSC still carry those? I don't think Lisle has anything left on these.

I bought a turret lathe from a guy in Jamestown NY.
He told me that he makes that little finger, sells them
on E-bay.
 
Not that I could find. Checked completed and current sales. Searched "Lisle drill"

Sent from my LG-TP450 using Tapatalk
 
Called Lisle and they said they had plenty of the Adjustable stop lips still. I ordered half a dozen. They were cheap. Imagine my amazement, turns out we have an identical grinder at work that the machine shop didn't realize they had, which needed one also, as well as the diamond dresser so we will be manufacturing 2 of those as well. Diamond nibs are dirt cheap at production tool. So looks like we'll be in business at work as well as at my house. :)
 
It's great news. I don't use mine except for drills larger than my Darex will do, but the Lisle makes a good point. It's clumsy to use because when you make a final pass and want to turn it to the other flute lip it's hard to do so without hitting the wheel. I guess I could turn the wheel off but then it becomes slower, and when the machine is waiting for a sharp drill time is precious. By moving the lever to the absolute top or bottom I can normally unclamp the bit and turn it gently to the other lip, clamp again and do a final pass on the other lip.
 








 
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