Looking for 7" dia thick wall steel tube for bearing housing

[Overland]

Something I saw on Joe Pie years ago is an easy way to keep parts parallel, use it with or without soft jaws for concentricity. Call them "bolt on soft standoffs"

Interesting, thanks.
I'm wondering why he didn't reverse his jaws, then the part would sit on the flat surface.
May those jaws don't reverse.
Bob

 

[Rob F.]

Interesting, thanks.
I'm wondering why he didn't reverse his jaws, then the part would sit on the flat surface.
May those jaws don't reverse.
Bob

Probably this:

 

[Garwood]

Interesting, thanks.
I'm wondering why he didn't reverse his jaws, then the part would sit on the flat surface.
May those jaws don't reverse.
Bob

Have you used a lathe before?

 

[Overland]

Have you used a lathe before?

You can be such a jerk !

 

[Garwood]

You can be such a jerk !

I'm not trying to be a jerk- I'm countering your utterly dismissive attitude like this is a walk in the park and you've done it 100 times and yet every response you give and question you ask suggests you have never done any of this stuff before.

I have done these jobs 100's of times. I have learned the hard way that the way you think you can do it will not result in a usable part. If you make a hub for taper bearings and the bores are not accurately inline the end user will have a huge mess on their hands.

Listen, or don't. Doesn't fucking matter to me.

 

[Milland]

I have done these jobs 100's of times. I have learned the hard way that the way you think you can do it will not result in a usable part. If you make a hub for taper bearings and the bores are not accurately inline the end user will have a huge mess on their hands.

Listen, or don't. Doesn't fucking matter to me.

I agree, but it's already a lost cause with the buyer doing post-machining welding on this housing. It's now a matter of doing one's best, then if needed trying to bail the customer out after the fact with a sleeve and rebore.

Sucks, but the guy with the money is always right. Right?

 

[Garwood]

I agree, but it's already a lost cause with the buyer doing post-machining welding on this housing. It's now a matter of doing one's best, then if needed trying to bail the customer out after the fact with a sleeve and rebore.

Sucks, but the guy with the money is always right. Right?

I know what you mean. I've done some parts where they had to be welded after machining and the distortion wasn't bad because the materials were extra thick. Kinda sounds like the OP's situation here.

I've also seen a bunch of stuff made where the bores weren't aligned properly to begin with and it led to spindles fracturing from fatigue, races spinning the hubs, alignment issues and more.

It's the "Oh it's not a problem, I know exactly what I'm doing" totally dismissive attitude followed with comments that show a complete lack of understanding.

 

[Overland]

The comment I wrote in my post #29:

"I have a Set-Tru chuck, so was thinking maybe face & turn OD one end on all 4 pieces, then flip, dial in, turn other OD, then maybe bore both bearing bores on this setting, with a smaller dia, in the center for the bearings to seat against."

I just did a small test on my lathe. Indicator against face of jaw, then carriage wound in to zero indicator on each jaw. The photos show the reading on the 3 jaw faces.

Once again, I appreciate the constructive comments.
Bob

 

[Milland]

Watch it, you're gonna lose points for using a Last Word indicator...

 

[Overland]

Man with the money sent me a pic of a similar rig to what he is building, for interest.
Hubs at bottom the pic.
Bob

 

[Milland]

Huh - doesn't seem like 1" wall there. Is what you're making going to mate to that, or replace it?

 

[Overland]

Just an example of what he's doing.
The ones I'm doing have 115 mm bearing bore, and 171 mm overall dia, so just over a 1" wall thickness. Some form of "skid-steer" style drive.
Bob

 

[Overland]

First one done. Decided to bore right through for bearings, and use snap rings.
Material turned easily with good surface finish.
Used WNMG inserts for external surfaces, but struggled with long stingy chips until I increased the feed rate, at about 500 sfm.
Also WNMG boring bar. Had trouble with chips getting between boring bar and job. Lots of banging and bumping as the chips were crushed in the gap just behind the insert. Any suggestions how to handle this please ? I was running the boring bar parallel to the lathe bed, I guess I could have twisted it to give more clearance, but I didn't want to adjust my Aloris tool holder position. This is 1026 material.
Thanks for all the input.
Bob

 

[DrHook]

First one done. Decided to bore right through for bearings, and use snap rings.
Material turned easily with good surface finish.
Used WNMG inserts for external surfaces, but struggled with long stingy chips until I increased the feed rate, at about 500 sfm.
Also WNMG boring bar. Had trouble with chips getting between boring bar and job. Lots of banging and bumping as the chips were crushed in the gap just behind the insert. Any suggestions how to handle this please ? I was running the boring bar parallel to the lathe bed, I guess I could have twisted it to give more clearance, but I didn't want to adjust my Aloris tool holder position. This is 1026 material.
Thanks for all the input.
Bob

If I cannot use coolant on boring jobs, I hook up an air hose to the boring bar and blast the chips out. Works pretty good, except for the noise and mess...

 

[kenton]

Bump up the feed and depth of cut till your chips are 6s and 9s.