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Looking for a 1952 13" crossfeed screw dimensional drawing

SuperG

Plastic
Joined
Apr 7, 2008
Location
WI
Title says most of it. I'm looking for a dimensional reference drawing for a 1952 13" lathe crossfeed screw. (Non-taper)

Anybody have a pointer to something like that?

Thanks!
 
I found this one but doesn't match the screw in my 1965 13. I just took mine apart and copied it.
Peter
southbend_13_cross_slide.jpg
 
Posted this in another thread. This is for a 1966 13 turret lathe which is similar to the CL145 but has a very large dial and so the dimensions on the right-most part of this drawing may be a little different to accommodate the larger dial:

AL9nZEXBQnGMsh30JN9bn94NYMKStB00VqFM7oEgP9PU2df0hHf8Rh4Qh-PsuYZDz-q_aMiX41QA_ExF-V7BkfghyjcVxP3iWKZ9EYn1prAoKIb3d4PY9QwnpFaPrwFH62oVfw0vZ_tkuJmae6ZvNTrjhWWXzQ=w1071-h650-no
 
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Thank you for that! What's interesting on that one is it seems to be missing the end thread to hold the ball crank on.
I guess I should just get out there what I'm trying to do, Let's take a detour, first.

My serial card for this machine suggests it was built in mid November of 51 but wasn't SHIPPED until January of 52. I'm not clear if that makes this a 51 or 52 lathe nor do I know if that makes a difference. I found a PDF of a 52 rebuild and it had the large dial vs my small dial and appeared to be a different collar length by the dial. Can anybody tell me if 51/52 was a model change year and if I need to discern that for parts attainment? (full disclosure, this machine is destined for somebody else's shop as APPARENTLY two metal lathes has been deemed excessive)

I purchased this lathe because it was more cast iron than my 70's version and because it has an albeit sad-bastard taper attachment. Restoring that taper to functional will probably take me most of the year working at it part time as it's in that bad of shape. I've decided to pull the taper for my 70's camlock spindle lathe and send this one on it's way to somebody who can put the time into cleaning it up.Obviously, when you remove the taper attachment you need a replacement cross feed screw. I was pretty fortunate in that somebody had one they sent to me; however, I've determined that the screw is from a newer model lathe and apparently a large dial version. I figured 'no big deal, I'll have it turned down to match the proper dimensions.

If only life were this simple, eh?

As I've been digging I've discovered that apparently the taper attachment was missing bearings on the feed screw. So now I'm trying to determine what exactly I need to replace to make this a functional lathe again for the next owner.

I could use a proper parts diagram for this year lathe and any advice on what needs to be changed out with the taper off the machine. Sorry for all the newb stuff. Thank you for your time!
 
If I read everything correctly, the only difference in the screw without taper that you have is in the length of the front handle shaft, because of the later model mount bushing is for a large dial and had thrust bearings. all you should have to do is turn down the front of the screw to match the front of your older taper screw, from the gear forward. They used the same mount bushing. Refit your dial collar and handle and turn the threads for the retainer nut. If you are going to include the complete cross feed screw assembly when you sell the older taper attachment, you need to find a mount bushing, dial collar and handle & nut just like the one you have on the taper attachment or make one while you still have it.
I've attached a link for you to the correct parts form 1953 - 911A, 10-16-inch saddle.
hope that helps.
 
If I read everything correctly, the only difference in the screw without taper that you have is in the length of the front handle shaft, because of the later model mount bushing is for a large dial and had thrust bearings. all you should have to do is turn down the front of the screw to match the front of your older taper screw, from the gear forward.
This is what I thought and then had the audacity to think about it further. My brain hates me.

They used the same mount bushing.
Actually, no. The small dial has a MUCH shorter mount bushing than my large dial 70's model.

Refit your dial collar and handle and turn the threads for the retainer nut. If you are going to include the complete cross feed screw assembly when you sell the older taper attachment, you need to find a mount bushing, dial collar and handle & nut just like the one you have on the taper attachment or make one while you still have it.
I don't intend to sell it, but I will need to gather all of those parts to adapt it to the new lathe. Makes me wonder if they are actually compatible after the change in 52.

I've attached a link for you to the correct parts form 1953 - 911A, 10-16-inch saddle.
hope that helps.
So, this PDF is one I saw and it's for a 53. This model is a 51or EARLY 52 and has the older style QCGB with the lever on the top vs two on the face. I'll attach an image, but it's not letting me in this reply.
 
Ok, the last 4 photos you posted, the first shows a cross feed screw from a later model 13-inch that would have thrust bearings, the hole in the front was for the bearing retainer sleeve pinned to the shaft. Second photo, same screw.
Third photo shows an older radius reading small 13-inch mount bushing on top, and the same later model feed screw. I assumed this is the mount bushing from the 51/52 lathe from your taper attachment, the last photo shows the older small dial bushing installed on an older small dial taper cross feed screw front telescoping half that does not have thrust bearings. If this is the bushing that fits the 51/52 lathe, cut the later model feed screw you show in the photos to the same length as the old taper screw front half and machine the same part dimensions.
The first parts diagram you posted is for the O series lathes, much older.
If you are wanting to put a non-taper screw back in the 51/52 lathe that will work.
The older non-taper screw and the older taper screw did not have thrust bearings. The later models with the longer mount bushing and large dials did.
 
Ok, the last 4 photos you posted, the first shows a cross feed screw from a later model 13-inch that would have thrust bearings, the hole in the front was for the bearing retainer sleeve pinned to the shaft. Second photo, same screw.
Third photo shows an older radius reading small 13-inch mount bushing on top, and the same later model feed screw. I assumed this is the mount bushing from the 51/52 lathe from your taper attachment, the last photo shows the older small dial bushing installed on an older small dial taper cross feed screw front telescoping half that does not have thrust bearings. If this is the bushing that fits the 51/52 lathe, cut the later model feed screw you show in the photos to the same length as the old taper screw front half and machine the same part dimensions.

Your observations are correct. My gut said cut it down to match but something nagged at me thinking I was missing something more than what I was observing.

The first parts diagram you posted is for the O series lathes, much older.

It was the only parts diagram I could find that was similar to what I have in hand and that also had the older style QCGB.

If you are wanting to put a non-taper screw back in the 51/52 lathe that will work.
The older non-taper screw and the older taper screw did not have thrust bearings. The later models with the longer mount bushing and large dials did.

This all has me thinking about if it's worth restoring this taper for the lathe I'm keeping. I would need to source all the bearings and have a new front shaft cut to match the longer bushing. Also, the larger dials. I could end us spending more in restoration/repairs than just buying the right taper for the 77 machine.

Thank you for your thoughts/assistance!
 
SuperG,... Here's what I did to my 14-1/2" when I had a clapped out taper screw and nut, couldn't find a new screw. (11/16 x 8TPI) and... my lathe was missing all the taper parts.
I kept the taper front half of the screw assy like what you have, found some precision 5/8 x 8 ACME rod, milled a keyway just like the taper version, shimmed it to fit the 11/16 hole, then cross drilled and pinned it in place. Now I have a standard screw that works perfectly (with a new nut from a 13") and the option to return it to a taper setup IF the day ever comes that I or the new owners desire it.

The "chip collar" I believe goes up against the power feed gear to prevent chips from gathering in the apron.

Here's a pic of what I meant. find some new acme rod, mill a keyway, slip it in and cross drill/pin where the blue line is. The pin can't come out due to it being captive in the saddle casting, but you could loctite or use a taper pin if you desire.

1676642868644.png
 
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