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Looking for ideas on antique tool repair

Making invisible repairs on Stanley planes is a specialized skill. There used to be a guy in the Pacific Northwest who could do it, so people would send their Stanley #1's to him for repair. He charged a fair amount for it. No idea what his name is, or if he is still in business, but perhaps someone else will reply with that information.
 
Making invisible repairs on Stanley planes is a specialized skill. There used to be a guy in the Pacific Northwest who could do it, so people would send their Stanley #1's to him for repair. He charged a fair amount for it. No idea what his name is, or if he is still in business, but perhaps someone else will reply with that information.

I suspect you are thinking of Cast Iron Mike. I've yet to meet him but he is a local legend.

[h=1][/h]
Cast Iron Repair
Specialists

Welder in Marysville

16129 Smokey Point Boulevard, Marysville, WA

Denis......................................................................................................
 
Don’t know if you’ve liquid nitrogen handy, you could freeze the plug and drop into a heated, reamed hole, doubt it would drop out

So if you were able to maintain the 500F delta at assembly (-320 F/ + 180F)
At 3/16" the interference would be .00056".
Prolly won't split the thin Satanley casting?
But will probably require burnishing anyway to cover the edge visuals.
Why bother?

I might use a taper pin reamer (in the planes like i posted a photo of, the bronze is taper reamed to help lock the sole on, when the round ductile pegs are peined to fill. At that thickness, 3/16" bronze sides, the taper is nearly parallel anyway - it takes very little to lock metal together)
On a repair with access to both sides, I would then lightly back taper the exit edge so when the peg is burnished around that edge before filing flush, it locks from that direction as well. Just so nothing is too tight, so as not to burst the casting. Which is why i suggest not actually "riveting"; and to practice on scrap to ID the best fit, visual obscurity, and safest.

smt
 
....
On a repair with access to both sides, I would then lightly back taper the exit edge so when the peg is burnished around that edge before filing flush, it locks from that direction as well. Just so nothing is too tight, so as not to burst the casting. Which is why i suggest not actually "riveting"; and to practice on scrap to ID the best fit, visual obscurity, and safest.
smt

You guys are way over-thinking this. Tap the hole, drive in a setscrew, and stamp "OIL" near the screw. Done!
 
Information from a different post, stated to be about the same plane:

They did this to accommodate a larger threaded knob.
I have. Actually funny enough cannonmn and I are talking about the same piece. We have gotten advice to ream the hole and create a plug for it.

FWIW, my advice did not anticipate the added information here, that the plug will be threaded to take a tote stud. (I thought it was the typical hang hole) Hence it will have some rocking forces applied to it. As a shelf sitter, it would probably still work fine. I would double down on the taper pin ream from each side meeting in the middle. However, i begin to wonder given the stress in this area and the potential pitfalls "why bother"?

Nor did it really understand that this was for a "customer".

If the existing threads are clean, and you thread a smooth, snug fitting ductile insert, my guess is you can burnish out to mostly disappear the threads. It is tough with a threaded insert, because there is always a place on the thread ramp, where the material of either the substrate, or the plug, is -0- and will flake, or leave a slightly extended arc'd divot. I'm also starting to wonder if someone willing to pay shop rates to a couple machinists to do the work, is trying eventually to establish a much higher value to the plane.

If it's a 602C, i sort of doubt the delta is significant between as is and (bogus?) pristine. They are scarce enough someone will buy it for not much discount.
If it's a #2C, the difference is wider, but on a much smaller number, so is it better than a wash after paying for labor?
 
Cutting down the 20 ga. Tempered spring steel went quick, cut clear thru close to line with Dremel disc riding against a fence, on aluminum for heat sink. Took off last 1/16 in. With belt grinder, but edge was left slightly D-shaped, so got it flat with disc grinder(not shown.)
 

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Cutting down the 20 ga. Tempered spring steel went quick, cut clear thru close to line with Dremel disc riding against a fence, on aluminum for heat sink. Took off last 1/16 in. With belt grinder, but edge was left slightly D-shaped, so got it flat with disc grinder(not shown.)

Been on other projects but now back on the plane repair. Asked my apprentice to come up with a plan and in about 15 min. he showed me this sketch of his concept. It seems workable to me. The two bolt-looking things we make out of ductile iron we bought. The lower one has a screwdriver slot inside so we can torque it into place, mark the flute location to match existing, unscrew, cut flute portion, replace. Top plug is needed to revert female threads to 12-20 from previous owner conversion to 1/4-20. Gold threaded bit is original knob screw, 12-20. Customer gave us few junk old Stanley planes to practice on.
 

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"Top plug is needed to revert female threads to 12-20 from previous owner conversion to 1/4-20."

The threads on old Stanley tools approximate 12-20, but they are rolled threads whose profile is NOT of the National Standard ( NS ) form.

You will find the "peaks and valleys" of the thread profile to be considerably rounder than NS.


St. James Bay Tool Co. in Arizona has 12-20 taps and dies. You could inquire about whether these have a custom thread profile.

On the other hand, this isn't high precision to begin with!

John Ruth
 
A psychiatrist has all their research done already.
Just has to study the thread here for a foray into
the compulsion of obsessive disorders. A Stanley
plane as a relic to your god? The burial shroud?
The arc of the covenant? You guys are in so deep,
you surround yourselves with yourselves to see
the same reflection everywhere you look.
You fabricate a construct of normal in order to build
a pedestal high enough so the shame can't reach you.
You've gone down a dangerous path, because now
you can practice your selective reality and apply it
to other things. Lucky part for you, now you have
the honed ability to accept or reject facts in order
to lie to yourself as a coping mechanism to deal
with the outside world. You might even compose an
essay of alternative facts together and convince
yourself that you are healthy and well adjusted
with your new found skills. Best of luck friends.

-Doozer
 
"
You've gone down a dangerous path, because now
you can practice your selective reality and apply it
to other things."

Exactly how many lathes *do* you own?
 
As a person with "way too many machine tools" in my basement and "way too many motorbikes" in the garage and "way too many antique radios in the attic", I've taken pains recently to avoid
poking fun at anyone with uncommon hobbies.

There's a story about the way to shut down spousal criticsm about things like that. It's easy to say 'he owns a gun," or he owns two guns, or three, or four. After about five of anything, the temptation is to say "all those guns" which means you are free to purchase as many as you like, and the perception of the quantity never increments up.

So, "all those lathes."

=)
 
We keep our money separate
and she buys whatever and I
am free to buy whatever. Has
worked for us so far. My only
fear is she will run out of closet
space in the house. She talked
about moving a wall to make a
larger closet. I said maybe we
can compromise if I put up a
clothes rod in the laundry room.
So far so good. But if I start
laying foundations for a shop
expansion, I might have to give
her a larger closer. :)


-Doozer
 
My buddy in Buffalo is thinking of selling his BMW.
I think it is a 1000cc 1979 machine. Painted not too many years ago, LED light conversions, newer tires, real clean. Ridden 2 years ago. Kept inside. PM me if you want his number.

--Doozer
 








 
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