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Looking for info on OLD Clark Clipper

59Clipper

New member
IMG_20210514_213900_549.jpg

I just came into possession of a ancient Clark Clipper 2000lb forklift.

The serial# is CEC-457-343. The Clark dealer in Omaha was able to tell me that it was built in June of 1959 and it has a Continental Y91-354 engine in it. He has contacted Clark about manuals, etc, but has not heard back from them.

Does anyone have any info on that? Which service manuals and parts manuals and where to get them?

It runs, but you have to have the choke on full. I assume the carb/regulator needs rebuilding. I haven't taken it off, but the end of it says Zenith/Bendix 101 regulator.

One of the brakes is sticking and the lift will only go up about 3/4 of the way. I think the lift problem is low hydraulic fluid.

It has a bunch of oil leaks, so I am going to pull it out of the shop this weekend and power wash it and go from there.

Any advice would be welcome. Just want to restore the old gal.

Allen
 

Steve in SoCal

Active member
I have a Clipper that runs on gasoline, if this is a propane only sounds like the regulator needs a diaphragm. Or the vent hole is plugged. I have seen a few catalogue pieces on line but no manuals. The brakes are simple drum brakes from a 1950 something car/truck pretty easy to get linings, wheel cylinders and masters. My Clipper actually came from a coffin company in Hastings.

Steve
 

59Clipper

New member
I have a Clipper that runs on gasoline, if this is a propane only sounds like the regulator needs a diaphragm. Or the vent hole is plugged. I have seen a few catalogue pieces on line but no manuals. The brakes are simple drum brakes from a 1950 something car/truck pretty easy to get linings, wheel cylinders and masters. My Clipper actually came from a coffin company in Hastings.

Steve

From what I have read, the diaphragm probably needs replaced. It's just finding one that will be the problem. Good info on the Brakes. If I have too, I can send them to Apple Hydraulics and have them brass sleeved.

I remember Hastings Casket Company, the used to have a building in town that was razed to make a parking lot. They produced the caskets in some building in the old Navel Ammunition Depot outside of town. That is where my shop is. I checked and I am not sure it is still there.

Small world.
 

59Clipper

New member
Could you take a pic of the air cleaner for me? Mine is missing the pipe that connects it to the carb. Also some pics of the side doors. Mine are missing and I will need to fab some new ones.
 

true temper

Active member
Clipper, is your shop east of town by T/L irrigation? I used to work for T/L in Kansas, I have been to Hastings a couple of times years ago to pick up sprinkler parts.
 

59Clipper

New member
Could you take a pic of the air cleaner for me? Mine is missing the pipe that connects it to the carb. Also some pics of the side doors. Mine are missing and I will need to fab some new ones.

Yep, it is a little south west of T&L. One of the 10000 square foot flat tops they built in WWII.
 

Steve in SoCal

Active member
Could you take a pic of the air cleaner for me? Mine is missing the pipe that connects it to the carb. Also some pics of the side doors. Mine are missing and I will need to fab some new ones.

This one never had a connection to the original air filter, I took it off and got oil everywhere!!! There is some scat hose that is what we call it in aviation on the carb. I think a small sock filter like a motorcycle is where I would go. The side doors on this one were long gone( there must be a pile of them somewhere in Hastings) the ones I have seen look like expanded metal in frames.

Steve
 

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59Clipper

New member
I was able to get it power washed this weekend. Found out the wheels are white LOL. So I took off the Carb/regulator and found the tag. It is a Zenith/Bendix 12404A. I found a kit for it on ebay, I hope it isn't from the 70's and dried out also.

Here is a pic of the vaporizer, I couldn't find any identifying numbers on it. If anyone has a clue for me, I would appreciate it.

20210523_112601.jpg
 

59Clipper

New member
I was able to get it power washed this weekend. Found out the wheels are white LOL. So I took off the Carb/regulator and found the tag. It is a Zenith/Bendix 12404A. I found a kit for it on ebay, I hope it isn't from the 70's and dried out also.

Here is a pic of the vaporizer, I couldn't find any identifying numbers on it. If anyone has a clue for me, I would appreciate it.

View attachment 321704

Found the part number, it is 877878. Does anyone know if there is a rebuild kit for it?
 

Steve in SoCal

Active member
Is that a dual fuel carb? A propane throttle body shouldn't have a choke. The old Bendix stuff is obsolete, ebay has several conversion kits for a few hundred bucks. The diaphragm MAY be the same as another make/model. Propane systems are pretty straight forward, check gas flow at each hose and make sure the weep holes are clean. A plugged up vent hole will keep a diaphragm from moving correctly. The fuel lock may have a filter that is clogged up.

Steve
 

59Clipper

New member
20210526_102123.jpg

I took this valve off of the vaporizer. It is in line before the Vaporizer, I assume that it is the fuel lock.

I took off the coil and hooked it up to a 6v battery and it did create some magnetism. Now on the lift, it looked like it was not connected completely. There was a wire going to a push switch and a wire going to the coil. The coil wire had came unconnected. I assume this should be energized for it to let propane through. Could it be that with this disconnected, the the choke has to be on full to create enough vacuum to pull the propane through? I took it off to check for a filter, but there wasn't anything in it.

Before this valve, there is another right angle connecter that has something in it. I am going to try to get a picture of it today to see if maybe that is the filter.
 

Steve in SoCal

Active member
If the fuel lock has no power there is no propane, if it IS dual fuel maybe it is drawing gasoline with the choke on? In other words if the fuel lock is off there has to some other fuel source to burn. Is there a gasoline fuel line to the engine? Is there gas in the tank, filler under your left foot.

Steve
 

neilho

Active member
FWIW, my Diamond T was built with Clark forklift axles and Raybestos wheel cylinders and master cylinders are still available from NAPA, reasonably. Coming up with a part # might require some sleuthing, but they're often cast into the body.

Intellalift, lifttrucksupplyinc.com, forkliftpartsworld, etc. Go ogle 'em.

Possible to do your own cylinders, too. Bore them out, Loctite a sleeve in, whichever metal you like, hone, etc, etc.
 

59Clipper

New member
If the fuel lock has no power there is no propane, if it IS dual fuel maybe it is drawing gasoline with the choke on? In other words if the fuel lock is off there has to some other fuel source to burn. Is there a gasoline fuel line to the engine? Is there gas in the tank, filler under your left foot.

Steve

No, there is no gas on it. I got the line set ticket from Clark yesterday and it was with the 888829 LPG kit which includet the 888834 LPG Carb and the 721060 Water jacket and Vap.

They also told me that I needed the 4C Parts Book. Which coincidently I had found on ebay and ordered on Monday. It doesn't have the images of the LPG kit in it, but it does show the wiring. So as soon as I get the carb kit in it, I will hook it back up and make sure the wiring is correct. Hopefully that takes care of that. Then I can move on to brakes hoses and paint.
 

59Clipper

New member
FWIW, my Diamond T was built with Clark forklift axles and Raybestos wheel cylinders and master cylinders are still available from NAPA, reasonably. Coming up with a part # might require some sleuthing, but they're often cast into the body.

Intellalift, lifttrucksupplyinc.com, forkliftpartsworld, etc. Go ogle 'em.

Possible to do your own cylinders, too. Bore them out, Loctite a sleeve in, whichever metal you like, hone, etc, etc.

I have heard that with the part numbers off of the castings NAPA can usually find them. So I will try that first.

Thanks for the info.
 

59Clipper

New member
20210530_144314.jpg
A little update. I got the carb kit in and did my best to install it over last weekend. Literature for it is unobtainium. Basically it is a standard updraft Zenith carb with a built in Bendix regulator.

I can get it to start, but if I shut it off after it warms up, then it will no longer start. I think it is the regulator adjustment, so I will keep fiddling with that.

The wiring is messed up, according to the parts book I got, the shutoff valve should have a wire running from the coil through a vacuum switch to the shutoff valve. The have it ran directly to the coil. I am going to have to fix that. However, there are two what looks like oil pressure switches, one goes to the gauge and the other appears to have at one time been the switch that was in the shutoff valve circuit. it is attached to a tee fitting with the sender that goes to the oil gauge. Could they have used a oil pressure gauge instead of a vacuum switch? I don't see a place on the manifold for a vacuum switch.
 

john.k

Active member
Yes an oil switch will be OK ...just so as you dont have gas leaking when the motor is stopped ...as for instance when the ignition is left on.....however it takes time form oil pressure to build up....the manifold vac is there after one rotation of the motor......Answer might be a press button override to give gas when starting,and until the motor builds up pressure.
 

59Clipper

New member
Yes an oil switch will be OK ...just so as you dont have gas leaking when the motor is stopped ...as for instance when the ignition is left on.....however it takes time form oil pressure to build up....the manifold vac is there after one rotation of the motor......Answer might be a press button override to give gas when starting,and until the motor builds up pressure.

It has that, just not wired in correctly right now. In fact I have a lot of work to do on the wiring. Worked on it a couple of hours yesterday, still won't start after getting warmed up. I am going to pull out the slow idle screw and compare it to the old one.
 








 
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