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Looking for opinions on floating reamer holders

I made both the flat pusher style, and one that rode the tailstock "flat" (faced off dead center)with a ball bearing...

I had a lot of chatter with the ball bearing style, flat pusher worked best for me. I suspect what works "best" depends at least somewhat on the operator.

I work between centers in a steady,using nothing but live pilot reamers with correctly fitted bushings my chambers have no more than .0002-.0003 runout. Works for me...

I just purchased Dave Manson's holder- which is basically a flat pusher style holder; just installed pressure flush and wanted to be able to have the tailstock hold the reamer. I suspect it will deliver the same results.
 
Does it make any difference as to whether its wise to use a floating reamer holder, depending on whether you prebore the chamber with drill and boring bar? The finish reamer will still follow the pre-bored chamber concentrically despite being floating and not having its pilot engaged in the bore? I have to admit I am a little nervous about this aspect having not yet tried the preboring of the chamber method.
 
I have been wandering the same thing! And is the point of preboring to not wear out the reamer so fast? Also do you just use a drill bit or do you have to use a boring bar along with it?
 
One reason to pre-bore, and the reason I want to, is that it gives you an opportunity to align the chamber with the section of bore ahead of the chamber. You align the barrel in the lathe chuck based off measurement you take from that forward span of bore as well. You will then of course machine your tenon and shoulder in correct geometry based on that section of the bore as well. If you just run a chamber reamer through from a faced off breach following the bore, it will follow the bore, which may not be aligned with the bore that will remain ahead of the throat.

The drill bit does the bulk of the work, then a boring bore takes it closer, ensuring that the undersized hole is concentric with the bore. After that, the reamer is supposed to follow the precut bore. But I am wondering if I am better off using a rigid reamer holder off the tail stock to avoid chatter or other problems when I do that. Simply push the reamer with a dead centre.
 
Mine is similar to the Bald Eagle pusher. It has a radius on the rear of the reamer holder. I do drill and taper bore to an indicated point in the throat. I don't care about the reamer bushing as I want my reamer to follow the tapered prebored hole.

wswly8.jpg
 
Mine is similar to the Bald Eagle pusher. It has a radius on the rear of the reamer holder. I do drill and taper bore to an indicated point in the throat. I don't care about the reamer bushing as I want my reamer to follow the tapered prebored hole.

wswly8.jpg

Do you use a drill chuck to hold the straight shank of the tail stock end of the reamer holder?
 
One reason to pre-bore, and the reason I want to, is that it gives you an opportunity to align the chamber with the section of bore ahead of the chamber. You align the barrel in the lathe chuck based off measurement you take from that forward span of bore as well. You will then of course machine your tenon and shoulder in correct geometry based on that section of the bore as well. If you just run a chamber reamer through from a faced off breach following the bore, it will follow the bore, which may not be aligned with the bore that will remain ahead of the throat.

The drill bit does the bulk of the work, then a boring bore takes it closer, ensuring that the undersized hole is concentric with the bore. After that, the reamer is supposed to follow the precut bore. But I am wondering if I am better off using a rigid reamer holder off the tail stock to avoid chatter or other problems when I do that. Simply push the reamer with a dead centre.
This is very similar to what I do. I leave the bored hole .010 smaller than the final shoulder diameter and .050 short of the final shoulder location. I chamber using a JGS reamer holder.

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Do you use a drill chuck to hold the straight shank of the tail stock end of the reamer holder?

The reamer holder on the left only holds the reamer. The tool on the right goes in the tailstock. Doesn't matter how it is held in the tailstock. It just pushes the radius ed end of my reamer holder.
 
Hey guys I'm needing opinions on who you think makes the most quality reamer holder. I was going to buy a Bald Eagle setup, but have seen a couple bad reviews in other forums. I also like the JGS, but I don't know if hands free is the way to go or not? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I have a Bald Eagle unit. The reamer caught in the hole and the handle cut my hand open. I wasn't hurt bad, but thirteen stiches later, I was all good. I'll stay way from anything like that if I can. I use the PTG mighty mite with not a problem.
 
JGS Precision Chambering Reamer company makes a floating holder. Also seen a video by UR (Ultimate Reloader) on Youtube has info on making a fixed holder by taking a blank 3MT holder, putting in tail stock then putting a boring head in lathe chuck (after rough drilling undersized hole) and boring the blank to exact size needed for reamer shank. I couldn't find blank 3MT arbor as shown in video but did find 1/2-20 #3MT arbor for threaded drill chucks, has shoulder between 1/2 threads and 3MT on ebay. I plan to thread a solid piece then counterbore it for tight fit on shoulder of the arbor for support and the distance extended so it is near the tailstock spindle. Scribe a fine like on it and short line on spindle so I can return the arbor in same place after it was removed. Arbor is only in exact aliment on lathe it's made on.
If anyone knows where I can find a tanged 3MT arbor similar to something like a MT endmill holder with no hole.let me know.
 
JGS Precision Chambering Reamer company makes a floating holder. Also seen a video by UR (Ultimate Reloader) on Youtube has info on making a fixed holder by taking a blank 3MT holder, putting in tail stock then putting a boring head in lathe chuck (after rough drilling undersized hole) and boring the blank to exact size needed for reamer shank. I couldn't find blank 3MT arbor as shown in video but did find 1/2-20 #3MT arbor for threaded drill chucks, has shoulder between 1/2 threads and 3MT on ebay. I plan to thread a solid piece then counterbore it for tight fit on shoulder of the arbor for support and the distance extended so it is near the tailstock spindle. Scribe a fine like on it and short line on spindle so I can return the arbor in same place after it was removed. Arbor is only in exact aliment on lathe it's made on.
If anyone knows where I can find a tanged 3MT arbor similar to something like a MT endmill holder with no hole.let me know.
I watched URs videos on this also on the solid reamer holders. Many lathe tail stocks are manufactured to be about.002 higher than the head. The reason is that with normal use the tail stock will wear down. So there’s a possibility of your reamed hoke to be larger than it’s supposed to be by around.004. This is something that I thought long and hard about. So I’ll continue to use a floater, but instead of the tail stock I’ve set up my cross slide and tool post to do the reaming with the height and lateral zeroed in instead. That way I can also use the DRO for depth measurements.
 
I have a number of lathes, my go to lathe is a Hendey 1952 version 18 gear speed. Tail spindle indicates .001" high, ways are perfect.Have 3 other Hendeys and really nice P&W new Model C with also excellent ways but being 16" it's kinda big for pistol barrel work. I do have a few name brand floating reamer holders and a few I made, left-over from when I had quite a few turret lathes, The fixer holder got my interest so I''ll make a few fixed holders.tom try them.
 
Tailstock is generally high, and IME, tend to wear into a nose down state from crud on the ways. Old'er lathes of course, and some of the sizes and brands suitable for hobby work dont have hardened ways.

For a pusher, I bought a MT shank ER-32 collet holder. 1/2" dowel pin is ground square. Reamer goes in a knurled aluminum sleeve with a ball bearing pressed in the tail end. Nothing to catch flesh like having a 'handle'. Got banged up once with a tap wrench, never try that again.

Reamer goes between the pilot in the bore and a center in the tailstock so the compound can be dialed in to the body taper. Adds 5 to 10 minutes depending on how clumsy... or hungover ... I am.
 
You may think you want a floating reamer holder…. But you don’t!
Once you go Rigid of the carriage there is no going back!
This is one I designed and built from scratch.
I call it the Omni-Adjustable l Rigid Reamer holder. X,Y and angular adjustable.
No Chatter, no dragging reamers on the chamber and way more consistent cuts.
God Bless,
Dustin
 

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Bumbling back here ...

Dialing in, boring ... and then rigidly mounting the reamer ...

What's referred to in Engineering as "Over Constrained".

A great way to NOT get the results you wanted.
I’ve been doing this exact thing for ten years now and have always gotten the results I want.
Now, there are certain reamer manufacturers that I can not use in this method due to chatter and catastrophic failure, but others always work for me. Due to my limited time and money resources, I stick to what works for me rather than trying to figure out why the others don’t.
But at under 45 seconds to ream a 6.5 CM chamber with carbide and under 2 minutes with HSS, I’ll keep on doing what I’m doing.
 
If your lathe is in perfect alignment and condition, then rigid is the way to go...........my lathe isnt,so I use the Speerchuicker method ,including holding the reamer with the fingertips so if it squarks or jams ,the holder just turns freely.
 








 
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