Yes, it does. That's where a shop-built machine can have advantages over something like a Gorton. Rig your part and the master to rotate in synchrony around the horizontal axis. Add a short slide motion (interlocked so it's only permitted when the rotation is at its max/min) if you need to continue the sharp inside corner down the vertical length. Maybe "lathe duplicator" (like for mass producing wooden gunstocks) is a better image than 3D pantograph, although I'd still want the reducing action myself.That sharp V bit to remove the fillet still requires the part to move to keep the tool tip in contact. If we are going down the manual route, I would be better off setting it up on my Brown & Sharpe with the head tilted every which way and geared up to mimic the lead necessary. But that would only do half the part, so I would have to machine all of them on one half and then machine the second half.
I don't have a drawing for it, its just something I made up quick with random numbers. I can dimension those random numbers if you had a thought you wanted to try? If you want I'll output it as a step and you can play with the model.can you share the dimensions of that drawing?
I had briefly considered making them two parts, but I guess I couldn't figure out a way to weld them together without then needing to machine them to hide the fact they are welded.I would make that as two parts and weld or solder them together. Make them just like the mating part with a slot in the vertical cylinder to accept the side piece.
Anything heat treatable for wear.... for casting I looked at 8620 and 4140. In reality they could probably be 1018.Hi Fal Grunt:
What material do you want to make these from?
Since you can't accept a radius at the intersection of these two basic shapes you have to either remove that material (5 axis with cone shaped cutter or sinker EDM) or you have to displace it out of the way (coining die).
Either way, your choice will depend on what it's going to be made from.
If the material is ductile enough to coin, the die is pretty easy to build.
Make it out of S-7.
You can probably just squeeze it in a milling vise, but if not a little hydraulic press will do it, or in a pinch, a small sledge.
When you squeeze it, the displaced metal will make it want to elongate...expect to have to trim it back to length.
So the protocol is to mill what you can, then drop it into one half of the die, put on the other half and squeeze the piss out of it to just pick out the corners, pop it back out, trim off the free end and then chop it to length.
I've done it (lots faster and cheaper than sinker EDM) and it works, but I was using a pretty ductile material (Leadloy).
Ha! well, im hoping to make lots and lots of money selling to the people that are missing this little partHere's an idea...
Instead of making just this part, how about you also make the mating part, and ONLY
sell them as a set.. If big business can do it, Why the F* can't we????
If I was making any quantity that would be an approach. I used to work for a company who built production automation and specialty machines just for tasks like this. Unfortunately this job doesn't justify several hundred thousand dollars investment.Yes, it does. That's where a shop-built machine can have advantages over something like a Gorton. Rig your part and the master to rotate in synchrony around the horizontal axis. Add a short slide motion (interlocked so it's only permitted when the rotation is at its max/min) if you need to continue the sharp inside corner down the vertical length. Maybe "lathe duplicator" (like for mass producing wooden gunstocks) is a better image than 3D pantograph, although I'd still want the reducing action myself.
Yeah..that would be my approach too..fixture and silver solder them But I suppose it depends on the material and application.I would make that as two parts and weld or solder them together. Make them just like the mating part with a slot in the vertical cylinder to accept the side piece.
Tolerances are pretty loose, I haven't made a drawing up yet, but I think I designed everything plus/minus .002"What are the tolerances you are wanting to hold?
Seems to me like it could be done on a 4th axis rotating around the cylinder.
5th axis would be easier.
It would either need a relief allowable or a surfaced finish on the radius.
Send me the .stp file. I will play with it when I have time.
You are clearly 1000 times more skilled than me at silver soldering.Yeah..that would be my approach too..fixture and silver solder them But I suppose it depends on the material and application.
Great post!Hi All:
For those who advocate silver soldering or welding these. there are a couple of problems you would need to overcome:
- First, these parts are pretty small so fixturing them would be an interesting challenge.
Nothing that can't be overcome, but a challenge nonetheless.
- Second you'd need to make the fixture out of something heat tolerant...maybe inconel or titanium.
- Third you need something that solder doesn't stick to readily...inconel or titanium.
- Fourth your fixture needs to maintain the proper solder gap.
- Fifth, your parts need to be heat treated at some point, so you have to make them out of something that retains hot hardness like H-13 and use a low temperature solder, so you can harden them first and then solder them together.
That's a lot of problems, and you need to do it at some (thankfully modest) scale...at least 50 or 100 of these parts for the first run.
Laser welding them creates a different set of challenges;
- First, the penetration and therefore strength is not great unless you really pour the coals to it or vee the joints and use filler wire.
- Second, welding it puts a fillet at the joint...you don't want a fillet at the joint.
- Third, you have to fixture them as with soldering.
- Fourth, the quality of the weld depends on the quality of the process control, so to do it reasonably reliably you're talking CNC laser welder in an inert atmosphere and etc etc.
- Fifth, welding hardenable steels is problematic (hot cracking) so your material choices are restricted to something you can case harden or nitride, or else you need to develop the welding process so you can get reliable welds.
You can see where this is going cost wise.
Given that; casting them, coining them , EDM burning them, all start to look more attractive.
Of those coining remains the most attractive to me because the process is so simple and predictable (and cheap).
The OP can make the dies cheaply and easily and give it a go without investing much more than a bit of S-7 and a half day of time.
I wouldn't be surprised at all if that's how they were originally made 140 years ago...coining has been around for a very long time.
I 3D printed the parts several times while I was designing them. I see a lot of people extolling the benefits of printing, but I haven’t seen it myself. Especially for steel.I hate to say the A word, but have you considered doing this part additive? Selective laser sintering is all about the volume of the part, and what, 100 of these would fit in a cubic inch with spacing? Additive doesn't care about geometry. Surface finish might be limiting though.
That’s likely what will happen.Early on you mentioned you could accept a clearance corner. Do that and it can be done on a 3 axis mill with ball endmills in a few setups, or faster in fewer setups with four axis.