Mike DeHart
Aluminum
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2011
- Location
- South Jersey, USA
I made two drawbars, actually. One is for my SB 10L, the other for a bud who has a similar 10L. The design is my own, based mostly on what materials I had available.
The tube was purchased online, seamless DOM tube from a place that sells tubing to builders of stock car racing cages. I first made a spider to support the tube as I threaded it inside both ends. I found hard spots where the tube was drawn, which caused me problems with cutting the threads. The solution was to spin the tube while heating it through the colors with a propane torch. After that, it threaded nicely. The pilot cone and main hub was sized based on the thrust bearing I got from McMaster-Carr.
I needed a way to hold the parts together and protect the bearing from dirt. I found what I needed in the auto parts store. I started with a 2-1/2 to 2" muffler pipe reducer. I trimmed the big end to length, cut off the small end, and bored the neck-down area to make a nice retention collar.
The handwheels are different. One was carved from a solid block of aluminum, 6x6x1-1/2". That made a mountain of chips that buried the lathe. I used the taper attachment to put a big draft angle in the ID of the wheel, purely because I thought it would look nice. Then I found that my oily hands couldn't grip the wheel. So I used the little Clausing 8520 mill, a rotary table, and a small fly cutter to cut in the finger grips. The second wheel was made from rock maple. I had a 1x3 that has been in the way for too many years. I cut out 12 segments to glue up two hexagons. Then I glued the hex's together, clocking the joints for good strength. I turned the wood to shape and undercut the back to fit on an aluminum disk for mounting.
The main hub is attached to the tube with red loctite. I made a couple of wood block sleeve clamps to lock in the hub position once I had it threaded into a collet as a test fit. I swabbed loctite on the shaft and in the hub, then slowly rotated the hub onto the shaft to get a full loctite fill in the gap. If that doesn't hold, I'll weld the hub to the shaft.
It seems to work first rate. I gave the aluminum version to my friend, and kept the wood one for myself. The maple handle matches the collet rack I made from an old hunk of maple butcher block. For bearing service, simply remove the three small button head screws and slide the sleeve, cone piece, and bearing off over the long length of the tube.
The tube was purchased online, seamless DOM tube from a place that sells tubing to builders of stock car racing cages. I first made a spider to support the tube as I threaded it inside both ends. I found hard spots where the tube was drawn, which caused me problems with cutting the threads. The solution was to spin the tube while heating it through the colors with a propane torch. After that, it threaded nicely. The pilot cone and main hub was sized based on the thrust bearing I got from McMaster-Carr.
I needed a way to hold the parts together and protect the bearing from dirt. I found what I needed in the auto parts store. I started with a 2-1/2 to 2" muffler pipe reducer. I trimmed the big end to length, cut off the small end, and bored the neck-down area to make a nice retention collar.
The handwheels are different. One was carved from a solid block of aluminum, 6x6x1-1/2". That made a mountain of chips that buried the lathe. I used the taper attachment to put a big draft angle in the ID of the wheel, purely because I thought it would look nice. Then I found that my oily hands couldn't grip the wheel. So I used the little Clausing 8520 mill, a rotary table, and a small fly cutter to cut in the finger grips. The second wheel was made from rock maple. I had a 1x3 that has been in the way for too many years. I cut out 12 segments to glue up two hexagons. Then I glued the hex's together, clocking the joints for good strength. I turned the wood to shape and undercut the back to fit on an aluminum disk for mounting.
The main hub is attached to the tube with red loctite. I made a couple of wood block sleeve clamps to lock in the hub position once I had it threaded into a collet as a test fit. I swabbed loctite on the shaft and in the hub, then slowly rotated the hub onto the shaft to get a full loctite fill in the gap. If that doesn't hold, I'll weld the hub to the shaft.
It seems to work first rate. I gave the aluminum version to my friend, and kept the wood one for myself. The maple handle matches the collet rack I made from an old hunk of maple butcher block. For bearing service, simply remove the three small button head screws and slide the sleeve, cone piece, and bearing off over the long length of the tube.