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Major FA20 EDM issues, looking for a good CNC repair center

RVF

Plastic
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Location
Ohio
Hey everyone, we have an older Mits FA20 wire EDM here that's having some major wire breakage issues. Were hoping to find suggestions on what might be wrong, or for suggestions on a competent repair center that could help us troubleshoot and or repair the machine.

I could write pages on how much trouble we have had with this machine over the last few years, but ill try to keep it as short as possible and relating to the current breakage issue, but even that will be long, so thank you to anyone that cares to read through it all.

About 2 months ago I had a piece of roughly 1.5” thick 420 stainless on the machine for a cut. It was a multi cavity cut, all straight, .060” drilled start holes, good flushing, normal settings I have used hundreds of times ect. For whatever reason the machine decided it wanted to bust the wire the moment it made its first spark on the rough cut. It would do this at least 10 to 20+ times until eventually it would take off and finish the rest of that rough cut with 0 problems. Once it finished the skim would run perfectly fine. It would repeat this process of wire break's for every new rough cut it moved to no matter what I tried to do with the machine.

What I did try was 4-5 different spools of wire (all the same brand but from multiple batches and previous half empty spools that ran perfectly for me). I tried flushing at all levels, full open, or various levels of restriction. I cleaned every part of of the wire transport system, guides, rollers, + complete upper / lower heads. I checked the diamond guides ensuring the cross drilled coolant holes were open and that the ID's were not worn and tried all of our power feeders in different combinations, I went through that entire cleaning/checking process at least 3 times for every component.

I checked pre tensions/main tensions with our meter, checked all ground connections, and eventually I started working with the E pack settings more. Our machine has never ran consistently with PM mode off, so by default its always on Varying (except for skims of course), I tried it at every level down to the minimum, as well as working with PM in the Off state, and manually adjusting settings down to extreme low levels. I even went as far as to try and use .010” Epack settings while using our .012” wire. I never in the past had to use the “startup” Epacks, except rarely on very tall open cuts, and even then varying usually worked just fine. However in this case I did try the start up Esettings as well, and had the same breakage results.

After everything above, and after about 6 chats with Mits tech we were finding absolutely nothing was working, the machine was still breaking the wire the instant it sparked on its rough cut. So I removed the part and transferred it to our Char290 in the room next door, and tried two pieces of scrap on the Mit's that were roughly the same thickness but different materials (303 and cold roll steel we commonly cut here). Same result on both of those.

Mits came to the conclusion that it must be our lower power cables since they had never been replaced. So about a week later our tech was able to see us. We did a couple checks on the machine (tension ect) and decided to try a test cut so he could see the problem. Funny thing is, the machine took right off and cut it just fine. Since we already had the new power cables shipped to us we decided to cut the wrapping on the old ones back and found that they were pretty badly corroded at the machine head. Our thought was maybe the machine had sat dry for a week and was able to run the test cut, and that if they stayed submerged long enough they must be causing the problems we had. So as a result we decided to have the tech replace them, which also included a new set of ground cables.

We had also decided to order and replace every single roller bearing in the wire transport system. New rubber / ceramic rollers, and main puller rollers on the back of the machine were all replaced, as well as all of the pinch / one way rollers for the AT unit. Then after all the work was done, the VG comp was wiped, ran and zeroed in from scratch.

Since then I cut about 250 hours worth of aluminium on the machine around 5-6” tall roughly with 0 problems. Last week I get a new multi cavity plate setup. 1.25” thick cold roll, flat, good flushing, .090” start holes, all straight cuts, and guess what. Yep, wires breaking non stop again.

I didn’t bother with all the previous things I tried except I double checked the Epack settings in the machine all matched the book, and I did experiment with our power feeders. A very interesting thing I found was that if a power feeder was present in the lower head it would bust the wire, but if I had one in only the upper head it would cut perfectly fine, just at 1/3 speed. So obviously there seems to be something way out of balance in the power getting to the heads.

So now were looking at the power supply thinking it might be one of the resistors, but until we get a more accurate meter here later today we wont know that for sure. With a cheap meter we did find they were all fairly close to what they should be, but Mit's tells us they need to be within 1% of the rating. I'm kind of believing at this point its going to be something else though.

So I'm curious if anyone else out there has had issues like this with a machine, what did you find the problem was? Or if you have dealt with a good CNC repair center who would you recommend? We are in the NE Ohio region, so some place nearby here would of course be preferred.

We are working with Mit's on this issue as well, but there track record with helping us out over the last few years has been extremely poor and were really looking to get some second opinions.
 
We have an FA10 and FA20 and an EX8 sinker and have never had anything like this in 6+ years. Before that we had FX machines and before that C and CS machines. I would agree that Mits service is not what it has been in the past, but their applications people have been top notch.

The only think that puzzles me on your problem is why you are using .012 wire on such thin parts? Too much power with .012 wire for that thickness?? We don't see any advantage over .010 wire until we are 3+ inches thick. In fact I think .012 is slower up to that size. Other than that, I'm stumped. What kind of shape is the brass housing that contains the contacts? If they (the contacts) get loose they will EDM away the housing and will cause major problems. We have replaced one after we found the problem. I would think the tech would have seen that kind of problem. I'll talk with my best operator and see if he has any ideas.
 
My guru said immmediatley "Your hole is too big." Use 1mm or less. For .060 hole he said turn off PM, use start up epack, turn feedrate down to about 1/3 and creep into the part. After your .100 in, you should be fine.
 
Hey RJT, thanks for the quick response.

When I started working here about 3.5 years ago the FA20 operator was gone and no one else had any experience with it at all, so initially I learned and only worked with our Char 290 machine.

About 6 months after I started here I took a 3 day course on the FA20 and began working with it. The machine already had .012" guides installed on it, and when one went bad it was replaced, the second went bad about 6 months later so we never really had considered .010" guides for it since there was never an opportunity to replace them as a set.

Our shop is a custom extrusion plant that builds its own tooling, so the FA20 like our char290 sees a huge range of dies/sizer and other jobs thrown at it. I can only assume the original intent was for it to deal with the thicker jobs we have since they kept .010" on the 290. Being that our char 290 does not have an auto threader I tend to put multi cavity parts on the FA20 regardless of thickness, but now that you mentioned it Ill take a closer look at the cutting speeds of the .010" wire on the FA and maybe suggest we buy a set for thinner parts.

My guru said immmediatley "Your hole is too big." Use 1mm or less. For .060 hole he said turn off PM, use start up epack, turn feedrate down to about 1/3 and creep into the part. After your .100 in, you should be fine.

We don't have an EDM drill, so usually hole size is kept to whatever is manageable by our old bridgeport's we have here. I do ask they keep them as small as possible even if they have room in the profile, so typically the largest holes I do get are around .062-.125 unless its 5-6" or taller.

I wont disagree with your operator that the conditions he mentioned would be optimal, but my problem is that over 2+ years of running the machine I have never had to resort to using the start up epacks under the cutting conditions I had, except for maybe in 2-3 situations where part height/shape and flushing created a horrible set of conditions. Even so, as I mentioned I did actually try cutting the part that way with PM Off, and with a startup Epack and very low feed rate that resulted in the same breakages.

I have also tried to run the machine many times in the past with PM off using startup and normal values once it was into the cut, and it always resulted in allot of wire breakage for us during the cuts. So by default we just got the point we kept the machine in varying for rough cutting. I talked to a number of mits guys about that issue in the past about tweaking power settings, and they all went back to the point that unless it was D2 hardened steel, and in perfect flush conditions they wouldn't guarantee the machine could cut consistently with PM off.

That aside, I was hopping with the recent work we did to the machine that I could manage to get it to cut with PM off, but I have not had the chance to really experiment with that yet.

However I am wondering if you might be on to something with the power feed holder for the lower head. Ours does have allot of slop between the carbide and the removable holder, if centered it has about .050" play side to side total. Then when its placed in the lower head there is about .050" of play side to between the head and the holder, and maybe .020" you can lift it up and down. The upper feeder sits with very little play in comparison.

Now of course both do have pressure applied to them in different ways so I don't know if thats normal or not, over the years I have not really noticed any difference in the way the lower carbide seated, but it does look as though it is eroded a bit where the carbide fits.

Ill mention that to mits when I call them, but if you could tell me how your carbide fits in the lower head of your machines, that would definitely be helpful information.

Thanks again for the help
 
The way it is described to me, the contact sits on a roll pin (into one of the indexing slots), the door has a spring which must keep the contact secure when the door is closed. .050 movement each way sounds excessive. He doesn't have near that amount. The machine is running right now so he can't measure it, but his memory is usually pretty accurate. The other thing my operator mentioned is running a voltage calibrating program about every 6 months which I guess tests and resets some default voltages. It's an actual program that he runs. Is that something you do? Also, once you are into the cut, turn PM back on.

We have an EDM drill that we use quite a bit. Not only for start holes, but for small angle holes for air blow or vacuum. They also use it to burn out taps (faster than our E8 sinker) and lots of oddball stuff around the shop. 1mm through 4 inches of hard tool steel in under 5 minutes. No broken drills, no lead off ( a straight hole) doesn't matter if you do it before or after heat treat.

By the way, your description is one of the most complete I've ever seen. Usually it takes several threads to get the whole story, but I can tell you are pretty thourogh and it encourages others to help when they get all the information.
www.progtool.net
 
Seems to be inconsistent, and only started recently ...

Who is drilling your start holes?

Same guy/gal as before?

Are they deburring them properly or just pushing the burr back into the hole?

I have tiny burrs at the lip of the start hole cause such problems.

Hard to see 'em sometimes.
 
How far are you from Cleveland?
I could come over and help you...
I'm pretty familiar with Mits and have a little consulting gig I do on the side.
jaycrumb@sbcglobal(dot)net
 
Also... I believe the PM can be set to different types of materials...can it not?
I remember having a problem with carbide cracking after second shift had been playing around in the screens and set it up for steel.
I don't remember aluminum being one of the options, but it would explain why aluminum cuts and steel doesn't.
Maybe it wasn't it the PM per say...
There was a setting somewhere in there though...
It wasn't directly associated with the epacks either...
I believe it was deep in the set-up screen somewhere...
Anyone got a manual I can thumb through real quick..??
 
When you do use a start-up Epack, is the wire breaking immediately at the edge of the hole, or not until the rough-cut Epack comes on?

I've had occasions where my eight year old FA10 will do the same thing, and I've had to manually cut out of the hole, maybe .010" or so. After that, it'll run perfectly fine.
It's rare, but it has happened.
It might do it with a popped hole in a hard piece, a drilled hole in a subsequently heat-treated piece, or a drilled hole in a soft piece. I've always figured it just doesn't "like" (how's that for a technical term??) the surface of the hole; maybe it just isn't clean enough, for whatever reason.

Have you ever been able to try a small test cut from the outside of the same block, when that breakage trouble occurs? I'd be interested to see what would happen in that case.

I have trouble believing that the size of the start hole has any effect on anything.
I've started with .030" popped holes, and drilled holes all the way up to 1/4" or more (sometimes a customer will provide their own start hole, and they don't realize that I'm not trying to thread from across the room!)
I've never noticed anything different, with different hole sizes.
If hole size were a concern, then how can a person cut from the outside of a piece without any trouble?

Good luck; and please keep us posted on your results!
 
Hey guy's sorry had a pretty busy day yesterday, thanks for all the replies though and taking the time to read.

RJT,
I did try to be as thorough as possible, I have only been running EDM's since I started here, but I believe myself to be a pretty good operator even though I spend about half my time working on most of our cad work and coding as well, so my full attention is not devoted entirely to the machines. One of the things I quickly learned was some of the smallest things can have huge effects on these machines, and every little detail does seem to count.

Ill admit my knowledge of the Mit's is much lower then that of our Charmilles machine, but over the last 2.5 years I've been running it, I’ve always managed to get it to cut through anything we have had, even under horrible cutting conditions. These parts I've been having problems with are materials and thicknesses that I've cut hundreds of times on the machine and should have absolutely no problem cutting, which is why were to the point of looking for some really abnormal problems.

The other day we did get to check the power supply's resistors with a more accurate meter and found them all to give good readings. I called Mit's and talked to them about the loose power feeder fit on the lower head. He explained those clearances were pretty normal, and that it shouldn't be any problem. I still find it odd it has that much play, but according to the tech the spring in the door will put everything where it needs to be, and as long as there was no major corrosion like the carbide teeth eating down into the plate that it was fine. After I thought about it some, I don't recall touching the lower head or contact after all the recent aluminium cutting I've done either, so it should have been in the same position when I went to the steel plate anyway, so I'm fairly positive now that holder was not a problem.

The program you mentioned is the VG compensation program, and yes that was cleared from the machine and ran completely once the new power cables were installed, as well as the VG hardware adjustment procedure (you have to pull a panel and manually tweak in voltages).

KilrB,
Our machine shop only consist of about 5 people, and we are constantly working on different jobs, sometimes 3-4+ a day, and we trade job's off to each other a lot, so its really hard to say who drilled them (it might have even been me). Being the primary operator of the EDM's I always ensure the holes are de burred on both end's and clean, so that definitely was not an issue, and as I mentioned I tried multiple pieces of scrap and multiple hole locations as well. We however do use anything that's handy for drill coolant, so I thought maybe there was some weird coating in the holes and I ran pipe cleaners through them. Also, since much of our stock sits here for months and sometimes years it becomes pretty dirty with dust grease and anything else so I sanded around the holes as well with no luck.

Jay Cee,
Were out on 422, I think maybe 40ish minutes east of Cleveland in Parkman. I believe you would be talking about ESPER, its a function I have never really worked with on the machine. If I'm not mistaken its sort of like the tech files from our Charmilles machine, you input material type, thickness, wire dia ect and it generates the power settings required, but I may be totally wrong about that, I believe I have only ever looked at that screen 2 or 3 times and it seemed really clunky to use.

Since I've been running the machine I have always placed Epacks, feedrates, and offsets directly into my NC code from our book. And again from my understanding when using either of those systems the PM (power master) acts simply as a modifier. It can be “off” and run the raw values, set to “varying” and run in a safe mode, or set to “thin” for really thin plates (.125-.200 or so)

Whamac,

2 months ago whenever I had this problem initially I do believe the wire was breaking immediately even with the “startup” epack settings.

And I totally agree with what your saying about hole size as well, I have cut directly into the side of rough edged 6-7” thick pieces of dirty steel before on the FA with the full Epack as long as the PM was set on varying and not broke the wire. One might think I should have no issue's cutting into 1.25” thick steel from a clean .60-125” start hole with good flush conditions.


So as a bit of a recap, the problem started abruptly 2 months ago, one day it was cutting fine, the next I put a plate on and it bust the wire nonstop. At that time I tried everything in my first post, moved to multiple hole locations and tried 2 scrap pieces of steel of different material types. Since then we have had a tech out to replace the lower power and ground cables, we replaced the entire wire transport system (rollers/bearings). Since then I think I may have cut one steel plate, but I cant remember what thickness it was. For the last 2 weeks I've been cutting thick aluminium (5”+) with no issues, but as soon as I put the steel plate on the breaking started again.

The only common factor with these breakage issues is it seems to be on steel of any type we commonly use here (303, 420, cold roll), and when its around 1.5” thick.

I tried to give the machine the absolute best conditions I could to cut, but nothing has helped. The only thing I found that consistently stops the wire breakage is removing the lower power feed. And these breaks are not any kind of a sizzle crackling and snapping after a second or two, its breaking the absolute instant it sparks (It happens so suddenly I usually cant even hear the spark). I pulled the wire a couple of times and found it to be singed pretty badly so I know it is trying to.

One other strange thing I've found with the machine that has always been a very random issue in the past, but became much worse recently is the way the machine handles itself when it shorts “in contact”. The last few pieces I did cut (steel or aluminium), I had a lot of trouble when the wire might have broke half ways in a cut, it would go home, rethread and trace back like normal, then as it eased into the part with machining on it would get stuck in “contact” from a normal out of contact condition. Every time it did this it would sit there and refuse to backtrack, so it would time out, cut the wire retrace and do the same thing over and over until it hit the fail limit and move to the next cut. And yes this would happen even if I used the retrace with machining.

That resulted in me having to restart it fresh on a number of cuts which in fact a number of those failed as well. The machine would start out in its start hole with normal cutting parameters and go into a 90% finished cut, as the wire moved from the start hole it would ground out in contact at the entrance of the slot and stall. Now a lot of times this simply because the steel has shifted slightly from weakness, dirty, or the edge is thin from a small profile ect, so manually adjusting flow / power / feed values has always got those cuts moving, but this grounding issue I was experiencing seemed to be impossible to get around. So I ended up running a set of new programs to reverse the cut and chop the slugs up, allowing the machine to spark a new slot for itself.

This exact same issue was happening with the (cut off) function where I left .100” tabs. So its almost as if the controller is not functioning correctly, or maybe there's a problem in the “contact” circuit somewhere.

At this point Mit's is insisting on having a tech return to our shop (we have on scheduled for next Thursday now) and possibly start swapping boards until they find out what's wrong.

In the meantime I'm going to reassemble the machine and see if it repeats the problems.
 
You remove the lower power feed and leave it out? Will the machine even run like that? Or you remove it and index it and put it back in? In either case it sounds like you have narrowed down the problem to the lower power feed.
 
No... I don't think it had anything to do with building Epacks...
It was a little drop-down-ish menu on the set-up page (Is that the first button all the way on the left hand side?).
Maybe it was in the Power Master settings...
I can totally see steel and carbide in this little drop-down box.
Not sure if aluminum was there or not.
Where's MitsTech when you need him?
If (BIG if) this setting is your problem, turning the power master off and getting the same result wouldn't dismiss it as the issue.
The Power Master being off would most likely break wire anyhow.
Also, removing the lower contact and being able to cut is also not a pure indicator that it's in the lower head.
It could be that the machine is able to cut without breaking wire at half the juice.
Installing the lower contact and removing the upper with the same results might be a good indicator of lower head issues.
And yes... I remember plenty of slop on the contact tray.
Man... I know I've seen this problem before...
Can anyone explain why aluminum settings cut but steel doesn't?
I know this, steel settings would cut aluminum but aluminum settings will break wire on steel everytime...
Let me see if I can get into my old shop to play around with their FX-10...
Maybe hitting the keys will help me remember...
If you find the solution, please post it...
This one will drive me nuts...

C'mon MitsTech...
Fix this dude and let me know what the little menu I keep rambling on about is...

One last real lame thought...
250 hours worth of aluminum could have coated your DI probe pretty good...
Does your water smell like fish?
I don't think aluminum cutting is as sensitive to bad DI levels as steel is...
Wouldn't that be funny??
 
Parameters for power master can be adjusted from the monitor screen using the M8 softkey... not sure that is the problem. Where does the wire break? Upper head, in the part or lower head?
 
Ha!!!!
I knew it!!!!
My brain is still okay... whew...
I bet yours was set to steel right??
Or maybe carbide...
It never messed with your cuts on those settings...
I bet if you put it on Aluminum you won't be able to rough cut steel.
 
Well yesterday about 30 minutes before I left I was informed our tech would be here today (Friday) and not next Thursday. No problem with that of course except the machine was not put back together yet, and I did not have time to set any cuts up to make sure the problem repeated, or to go through all the basics from scratch again.

So as you can guess we get the machine assembled this morning, set up a test and it cuts... Same material type (cold rolled and a very dirty piece at that), same thickness, and the exact same program I was running the other day. It did have a little trouble with breakage once it was into the cut, but it was pretty easily fixed by lowering the flushing from full to around 8-9, just like I normally would do with the machine. We rotated the cut a few times to try and get it to break as it started a new cut (breakages I had before were all from a fresh start hole), but every time it started into it just fine. Absolutely nothing like I was experiencing the other day, or when the problem popped up 2 months ago.

So he looked over the machine a bit and found for whatever reason the new bearings I installed in the lower head about a month or so ago were already running a little rough, causing the idle pulley to jump around a bit. (it was running smoothly since I had them installed, I'm guessing they dried up a bit with the machine off the last week). Swapped to some older bearings I had cleaned and it smoothed the pulley out.

One thing the tech noticed when he was checking the rear pull rollers was that a gear was missing. Since I've been here I had never removed one from it, and I assumed the gear on the other roller was maybe a drive mechanism for a wire chopper. After some digging through old parts, It turns out we found the other gear tapped to a note from 2003 stating that another tech had removed it. Note said that the gear was only required for .004"-.006" wire. I'm sure I had seen it years ago when I first started using the machine, took the note's word, and never thought of it since. So we installed the gear, and the machine seems to be running beautifully right now. This gear for those of you not familiar with the machine keeps the upper / lower rollers synced in case they want to slip.

I don't think I have mentioned this yet, but the machines has always had horrible problems with the wire coiling. Changes in material thickness, types, power settings, turning PM on/off, going from roughs to skims, almost anything would cause changes in the way the wire coiled, and most of them would be in a really bad way, requiring you to kick the wire bin every 10-20 minutes to keep it from coiling and wrapping into the rollers / drive shafts.

Now with the gear installed I tried 4 different part thicknesses of different material types with PM on and off and the wire is coiling perfectly in every instance now. I have no idea why that gear was removed 7-8 years ago, if I had known about that, it would probably have saved me a ton of headaches when I couldn't get it coiling before a weekend/night cut, and had to leave it sit.

So being that test cuts ran just fine on both visits before doing any changes to the machine, we still don't know for positive exactly what was causing the problems we had. I'm hoping maybe that rear puller was just having a bad day and slipping or something without those gears, but who knows, I guess ill have to wait and see if it happens again.

As far as the PM and material settings, our machine is one of the very first FA20s, and I don't believe it has near the same options as many of the other machines. Our PM mode simply has Off/Varying/Optimal/Thin. the M8 key is blank for us.

Oh, and Jay Cee, I had that same thought about the aluminum and the sensor also. I forgot to mention I did clean that though, both the first time we had the problem, and this recent occurrence also.
 
I didn't know they made FA machines without a chopper. We have had them on all our machines for the last 10+ years and wouldn't be without it. It's almost as nice as a threader.
 








 
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